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New to me 84' 25xd no run.

manther

Member
Hi, I'm new here. Nice forum.

I just picked up a new to me 25xd. Serial 6535516
It ran with earmuffs in sellers yard. When it was warmed up it had 120+ compression in both cylinders.

Drove it 2 hours home, and it won't run anymore. Here's the symptoms.
If having sat for a ling time (hours) it will start for about 20 seconds. Has a low rough idle and eventually cuts out.
After that all attempts to start result in the starter disengaging because the engine has begun to fire. But it will only fire a few times and die.

My starting procedure: Prime the inline bulb, and make sure its in neutral and the gas tank vent is open.

What I've done for troubleshooting:
New spark plugs. Champion QL78YC gapped at 0.04
New gas, and 50:1 synthetic pre-mix
removed all fuel lines. Replaced with automotive ethanol safe line.
Cleaned fuel filter.
Verified fuel is getting past the quick connect, and past the fuel filter and into the fuel pump.

Found one of the bolts on the carb was loose. Tightened it, and it ran for 20 seconds again but same results as before.
Pulled plugs. They were a little wet, but not fouled in any way.

Pulled the carb. Fuel pump diaphragms are in good shape. (Previous had new one installed).
Peeked in a the reeds, they looked normal, but I didn't pull them and look at the gaps or anything.
Cleaned the carb. There was some black specs in there, not many though. main jet was clear. float needle seat was not indented to badly. Float looked to be setting at about 1" when lightly touching the top of the float needle.
Put carb back on, fresh gas, line, plugs, clean carb. Fired up and ran for 20 seconds then died.

Remembered I left the needle, low speed screw (whatever its called) bottomed out. Turned it out 2 turns from bottomed out.
Restarted, and it would not fire at all. Had lunch, came back, still not even a single fire, just cranks.
Used a bit of starting fluid, it fired up and started pulling gas, and ran for 20 seconds, and died, and repeated the same behavior it's always had.

Pulled the exhaust cover. The gaskets looked like crap, but they tore apart when I was trying to remove the plates, so not sure if they were blown or not.
I need to test the spark, but I'm at home by myself, and need some one to go turn the key while I look at the spark. So I will do that soon.
Here are some pictures. of the pistons, piston walls, rings and exhaust channel.

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Do the piston rings spring back if you carefully push on them with a screwdriver? The pistons are not scored just a littl carbon buildup. Clean everything up good and install new gaskets put a light coat of permatex aviation gasket maker on both sides of the gaskets. Wait at least overnight before you try to start it. Check your spark with a open air spark gap tester it must jump a 3/8 gap on both plug wires.
 
Do the piston rings spring back if you carefully push on them with a screwdriver? The pistons are not scored just a littl carbon buildup. Clean everything up good and install new gaskets put a light coat of permatex aviation gasket maker on both sides of the gaskets. Wait at least overnight before you try to start it. Check your spark with a open air spark gap tester it must jump a 3/8 gap on both plug wires.

OK will do.
I realized a little too late, I'm not going to be able to test the spark until I order exhaust cover gaskets. As soon as I bump the key water will be drawn in an can potentially shoot right into my piston chamber correct?
 
If the rings spring back go ahead and put it back together. Alot of guys use regular plugs especially if you do alot of slow speed operation. Get a can of seafoam spray after you get it running good. On the water bring the engine ip to temp and at a high idle spray the seafoam in the carb in spurts until the engine starts smoking good. Quickly shut it down and fish for at least half an hour. Then start it and run it WOT for about 20 minutes. Then go back to idle speed and see if there is any improvment.
 
NGK plugs would be the factory correct plugs. Are you using the primer and high idle lever for starting? There is nothing wrong with your rings or pistons. 120 psi is good compression for that motor.
 
I’m lost as to why you took the exhaust apart when you said it ran at the sellers house. If you don’t have the vent knob open on your gas can it will create a vacuum and hold gas back from flowing thru the fuel bulb thus shutting the motor down. Check fuel lines for softness and replace ~ watch a couple YouTube on fuel flow or carb clearing techniques. Try a few cheap methods of repairing problems before tearing your motor apart. It’s guys on these sites that can fix everything before you spend a dime. Just keep asking ... Good luck ... post your resolution when get it running so it can help someone else.
 
I had a problem with my 9.9 4stroke Merc / no spark and posted on Craigslist that I needed help. Some guy from Philadelphia emailed me a video on how check my e-stop wires and all i need is a $8.00 toggle switch replaced. I was about to carry my motor to a well named dealership for what $100 a hr labor plus who knows what they would have charged for diagnosing and repair. IJS
 
The rings press in and spring back out.

Tested spark, I found the #2 had weak spark when I first started testing, then after a few key bumps it stopped sparking altogether regardless how far the gap was set on my tester. So I need to go through the no spark troubleshooting sequence.

One guy asked me about my starting procedure. I don't have some of the things mentions on my console. I've added pictures.

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Also I don't know what the no spark troubleshooting steps would be. If there is a walkthrough on here, that would be great, or if not, anyone know the cheapest place to get the manual online?
 
I’m lost as to why you took the exhaust apart when you said it ran at the sellers house. If you don’t have the vent knob open on your gas can it will create a vacuum and hold gas back from flowing thru the fuel bulb thus shutting the motor down. Check fuel lines for softness and replace ~ watch a couple YouTube on fuel flow or carb clearing techniques. Try a few cheap methods of repairing problems before tearing your motor apart. It’s guys on these sites that can fix everything before you spend a dime. Just keep asking ... Good luck ... post your resolution when get it running so it can help someone else.

Yep, that was a mistake, I shouldn't have opened the exhaust manifold. I know that now. Doing the best I can here. The reason I did was I got inspired to check it by this post. http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...n-lower-cylinder-carb-flooding-weak-spark-fix
 
Watch those YouTube videos: It’s all types of free info you can apply to your repair needs. Just type in the problem you have and can just about Guarantee that there is a video on YouTube about it
 
Don't bother switching the trigger wires. Your motor has a single trigger if it failed you would have no spark. Look at the switch box.
 
Don't bother switching the trigger wires. Your motor has a single trigger if it failed you would have no spark. Look at the switch box.

Want to make sure I do this test correctly. See attached pictures. Service manual says:
"Disconnect the leads with their quick disconnect fittings."
And the appendix says: "tester leads go between the trigger leads."

So are the trigger leads the two posts the two green wires are connected to? Because I wouldn't think that is a "quick disconnect" fastener.


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Or is it saying to pull the two quick connects like blk/wht, brwn/wht off and test resistance between them. I.E. a test for each side of the switch? I bet thats what it is. By the way, it's a mess under that boot covering the quick connect terminals.
 
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You do not have quick connects you have the old style box. You need to remove the nuts from the trigger wires then test. www.cdielectronics.com has the guide to test your ignition. The new style box has bullet connectors which are quick connects. Your box looks original at the end of its service life. I would clean all those connections to shiny including the ground. You may get lucky and it is just a bad connection.
 
You do not have quick connects you have the old style box. You need to remove the nuts from the trigger wires then test. www.cdielectronics.com has the guide to test your ignition. The new style box has bullet connectors which are quick connects. Your box looks original at the end of its service life. I would clean all those connections to shiny including the ground. You may get lucky and it is just a bad connection.

www.cdielectronics.com is a cool resource, thanks for that.

I found my section. It looks like we basically troubleshot from the coil going backwards, while they begin their troubleshooting from the stator going forward.
So I can go out and buy a DVA adaptor and troubleshoot their way. Or if we do it going backwards (our way) then it looks like I just need to go buy a switchbox.
Any advice on that?

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Sounds to me like the next step to replace the switchbox? What is the serial number of your motor?

6535516

https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=CDI114-7452A+3

*Note, I will also be attempting to clean up the connections and try the spark test again when I have a break from work. But supposing that still fails.
 
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