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New Mercruiser engine mounts driving me crazy

S

speakrdude

Member
So here's the story. I'm sure some of you may have seen this on some other forums, but I am still looking for an answer or suggestions.

Boat: 1988, Sea Ray Sundancer 300 with twin, 1994 Merc 5.7's, Alpha 1, Gen II's.

Port engine seized a couple of weeks ago. 1 of the 2 engine rear mount bolts, absolutley frozen. Had to cut off the head of the bolt, thereby destroying one of the rubber bushings. Took about four hours to drill, pound, the old stud out but got'er out, cleaned up ready for new engine.

Ordered new bushings kit.

New Bushings are a little different now. No more spring looking lock washer. Had the machne shop remove the old ones from the flywheel housing and install the new ones per Merc. instructions provided in the kit.

So far, so good.

Set the engine down on her mounts, prepare to align, rear of engine too low! Merc. instructions said this may happen and provided 2 small washers, I believe called the shims. (.1" thick)

Much better, Can slide the alignment bar in with some force. Grease grooves on the top and starboard a little of the alignment bar.

The front of the engine obviously needs to be lower, trouble is, the front adjustable mounts are all the down!
Mercruiser has a Service Bulletin addressing this and says that with this set up, The front of the engine will need to be .272" lower than before, using the washers, .680 without using them.

So, how do we go lower? Can we add more shims to the rear? Do I go so far as to (Router) lower the stringer blocks?

Suggestions?

Thanks.
Jim
 
You will never get it lined up if you don't install the fiber washers and lock washers for the rear mounts, they are required but the kit you ordered may not have had them in it
 
Have done many of them, yes you are right old system is gone.... This is what I have done, little more work but it works...
When I have the motor out I cut 3/8 out where engine mounts go.I then reseal with fiber glass.I then reinstall engine bolt mounts down.You now will have more then enough room to move engine, up or down...

Steve
 
Steve is right. Unless you have the angle brackets that bolt to the sides of the stringers and can relocate them lower you must cut into the stringer if the mounts have bottomed out. If you can't lower the front end, you'll never line up.
 
Concord, Thanks but the lock washers are a thing of the past. The fiber washers are still there though.

Steve and Woodieman you are Spot on! That is exactly the route I was thinking of. It is easy to get a smal handheld router to the stringer blocks right now even with the engine installed. (No manifolds instaled, still just a new longblock) Can block up the Harmonic balancer with a steel cross member across the stringers and remove both of the side mounts for easy access.
Having material removed from the mounts themselves would be faster and easier though. (Is there enough there to remove .38?)
Thanks for the Help. Should have came here first.
 
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