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neutral switch

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myquest

Contributing Member
Where is my neutral switch on my 1984 Bayliner 5.0 with the 275 outdrive? Ricardo rebuilt my transmission last winter and I finally got to take it out and run it. It ran fine, shifts fine, until I got too far down the lake and it would not start or shift into reverse. I got a chance today to investigate and the brass shift mechanism was tilted slightly clockwise and the prop would not move. I disconnected the linkage to see if I could manually shift the brass shifter. It was stuck also. I reached down with my foot to see if turning the prop would allow me to shift and the prop broke loose and the shifter moved to neutral. Now the shift lever moves forward and reverse effortlessly (not running) and I checked the linkage. Adjusted it slightly to better represent neutral but when I went to start it I get nothing at the key, no starter. I took a screwdriver to the starter to see if it turns the engine over and that works fine. So, my choices are, ignition switch and neutral switch. School me on what and where the neutral switch is located and where I need to troubleshoot. I haven't had the opportunity to visit this forum for a while but this is the place for answers. Oh, Rick, the oil in the outdrive looks great, I need to add a little but there is no water contamination so your advise to do the air pressure check worked. Thanks!
 
Okay so I did a search after my post (Isn't that the newbie way?). I will check the relay back by the carb, I already did and undid the wire harness connectors. I will also see if I can find a wire that goes to my controls. Thank goodness for the search function, there's always an answer there if you keep reading posts.
 
The neutral switch as mentioned is in throttle assy, a simple push in switch via a cam on throttle linkages when leaver is in its neutral the switch will be pushed in, mine failed a few years ago,

I did this:
Go and buy a stainless steel push in button switch, take the two wire from the throttle assy normally yellow or yellow red and connect to the new button switch, then place the new switch somewhere near the throttle leaver so it can only get pushed to start when the leaver is in neutral position. Its then a simple case of pushing in the button switch and cranking engine, once started release the switch.

Testing your existing neutral switch is easy just connect a evo meter in continuity check, place props to the two terminals of the switch when throttle at neutral you should have continuity through the switch, when leaver is in f/g or r/g gear no continuity through switch.

Mine became so temperamental i replaced with my own above version,

A very quick check is to pull of both wires to the switch and join them via there terminals, if the engines starts and runs disconnect the two wires, switch off engine, now keeping the two wire apart(not connected or joined) try starting the engine again and if working correctly that engine should not start.
 
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Thanks for the replies guys. I played with it some more. I found the wires, by feel, going to the shifter and was hoping they were blade type connectors but it feels like they are hard wired and someone has used crimp connectors on them. I think I have to research how to remove the shifter so I can look at what I am doing. Have never removed one and can't readily see how but I'm sure it can be done, people remove shifters all the time.
I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks again.
I can see how that remote button could be dangerous but also maybe a theft deterrent as well?
 
Remote button switch is not dangerious at all, my switch can only get pressed if the shifter is in its newtral position i can not press my switch in when the shifter in forward gear as the shifter blocks the pressing of it until it returned back to newtral, plus the switch i have is flush with the trim and the actual switch button is slightly recessed inwards to stop accidental pressing.

Like me i searched every where for the replacement switch and its not available on my V/P. a whole new volvo penta throttle assy is required £120 over here, If you switch fails on a closed circuit you engine can be started at any position of the throttle shifter, or as you have possible found out it can stop the engine from starting, which is also very dangerious, especialy fare out to sea, just need to way up the danger factors, a new switch that in princeable should not let you down or an old switch that may fail with out warning, if you can get hold of a new switch that is identical to the one you have then offcourse that is the best way and the easyist. i am an electrical maintenance engineer and tried so many places to obtain my tiny plastic switch but impossible it was.

I original got the switch idea from looking at other raceing boats and events in have gone to, and safty standards at the raceing events is very strict, so if its good enough and works for them, it works for me brilliantly and has never let me down, nor has it given me any safty concerns when the family is on the boat

mark
 
Can you post a picture or a diagram of your configuration? I like the idea and also do not want to purchase a whole new unit. I am still trying to figure out how the shifter i sremoved but I haven't had a lot of time to investigate.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Have just tried to upload some pics but they keep saying failed, will try and see what i can do later

This is the switch i brought of ebay, not this supplier in the link.
http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-485-03-push-button-stainless-steel-and-brass-switch-6a-1113-p.asp
perfect for what you need,

Make sure the shifter is in neutral first before removing shifter & throttle linkages

Throttle shifter possible has on the front of it a plastic cover near the lower middle section, brise this off and you will see a bolt in the back that goes through to the shifter mech in behind panels, my inner mech was fixed with 6 self tappers, remove the bolt and possible spring fixed to bolt shaft from the shifter and its should pull away with wires still connected to the trim buttons.
Your throttle and gear cable will be fixed by either a spring clip or a c clip make a note of what cable goes to what linkage. look for self tapping screws that hold the mech in place behind the panel, use the tips of your fingers to feel for the screw tops.

Once your throttle and gear mech is free all should become clearer, the cable to the neutral switch may be fixed or just clipped to the terminals even rusted up.

Once my mech was free the fun started, i had to seperate my shifter into to parts, ie remove the top plate this is when thing start to go ping and spring and fly every were, take is slow when removing and seperating, the neutral switch will be visable once the top plate unscrewed and is off

Luckaly i took photos at the time part by part just so i knew were everthing went.

mark
 
There are usually several ways to address a problem. Some pictures of the shifter will help to identify it and someone here may have experience with that model. When I replaced the switch for mine, it was a simple matter of going down to a local electronics supply house to get another. Just had to figure out which contacts for normally open and normally closed.
 
Don't know why one would modify the design. The switches are simple micro switches available at any good electronics supplier. Very common switch used in thousands of applications.
 
I pulled apart the shifter and the switch came out in pieces. I can't find the number in any online parts sources. You say it is readily available in electronics supply houses. Suppose Radio Shack in my small town might have a replacement? Any part number or something I can go on? My local RS seems to be filled with polo shirted phone salesmen these days. No radioheads left.
 
well done for finding it, good luck in getting the part, i hope you can.

WoodieMan
Re: neutral switch

Don't know why one would modify the design. The switches are simple micro switches available at any good electronics supplier. Very common switch used in thousands of applications
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Tell my local volvo penta dealer that, parts can not be supplied as there is no part number for my shifter assy as it year of manucture was 1994 i took the brocken switch everywhere to local and online switch suppliers, nothing at all was close, it looks like an upside down T the top of the T is the terminal and plate contact in side and the then its just a small tube with a plastic spike in the middle and a spring, this rides on the internal cam and is sprung loaded.


myquest
could you post a small pick of the new switch if you get it, if its the one indentical to mine may be i could pay you for sending one over to me.??:D:D

mark
 
Hi Mark,
I will let you know what I find. I looked online yesterday and found a similar switch that I will try to source locally so I can confirm screw hole orientation. If it turns out to be the same switch I will gladly pick one up for you or point you in the right direction to order one yourself. The one I found was around $3 US.
Mike
 
Yes, mine is a small black micro switch with blade terminals on it. Mine only had two terminals but I'm guessing the ones I'm finding with three are so I havd a normally closed or normally open option. I'm just not sure if I want one with a roller or just the plunger. Sorry it doesn't look like yours.
 
Myquest, the micro switch at the top of the page is pretty much what's used on most remotes. "Pretty common". The actuator is usually part of the remote. Radio Shack used to carry them but the last time I was in one of their stores, things had changed a lot, and electronic parts didn't seem to be a big part of their inventory any more.
 
Well, in this town Radio Shack is the only place I can think of to check without heading up to Olympia, I'll check them first. I agree, Radio Shack should change their name to Commissioned Salesmen Cell Phone Shack to better represent their product line.
Thanks
 
If you know of any vending machine (automatic food and drink machines) company in your area, drop in. These were used quite a bit in the vending industry at one time. They may have some lying around.
 
well, I contacted the CED supply house that we get most of our electrical supplies for the sawmill. The guy I talked to thought he had a switch like that somewhere. He gave me two switches he had in his desk. They were perfect. I now have it all back together and it works great. I found a hole in my exhaust bellows and will search to see if that is a major issue.
Thanks for everyones input. I say find your local industrial supply house and see what they can find, worked for me and I now have a spare!
 
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