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Need some opinions on a mechanical inspection i just had done.

S

stangbanger

New member
Im looking at a 2000 Pro Line 24S IT has a 2000 Mercury OPTI.

Ive read all of the concerns surrounding these motors of this year, and i got the mechanical inspection back today.
Here are the bad things

Trim Button sticks in up and down
Injector Plug clips all broken need replace
Water in the fuel separator, fuel smells bad. Owner hasnt had boat out in 5, 6 months
Port Trim Ram leaking
STBD TRIM RAM Pushing seal out
Trim motor Rusty
#5 injector Code At WOT
Motor has no load on 5, or 6 at WOT. Sounds like its losing fuel psi.
Need to bleed loose steering
Motor has Autolite spark plugs, recommend replacing with oem
Lower motor mount nuts are really rusted

Motor has 321.7 hours
154 hours between 0-999 rpms
36.5 1000-1499
31.1 1500-2999
12.7 3000-3999
57.1 4000-4999
12.7 5000-5999
In 2005,04,02 there were claims done for direct fuel Injectors. Recall shift link 2000-016 was completed, steering link rod 2000-001 inspection was completed, the motor was made on 09/08/1999
And was sold in 02/10/2000 n went out of warranty in 2002. Nothing major noted

Im mostly worried about this being an optimbomb.

The boat is priced pretty well in my opinion @14,000.00 and the owner is going to have everything fixed before i buy. Im just trying to figure out if theres anything here i should really be concerned with.


Thanks everyone
-Randy B
 
Run...there are alot of boats on the market now and even more in about 45 days due to end of season...prices will be more buyer friendly.
 
Well,first of all I must say that your statement "Water in the fuel separator, fuel smells bad. Owner hasnt had boat out in 5, 6 months"....Fuel don't go bad in 5, 6 months.Unless the tank was on E as down to it's last drop in the tank.Past owner may have wenterized the boat.As dumped to much stabalizer in the tank as most do.Based on your mechanical inspection .If I was a ******** man I would put money on it that,boat hasn't been out running in 2 yrs.Not 5-6 months.
Your saying that this boat has seals leaking or bad,bad fuel,water in fuel,rusty bolts,buttons sticking.Your discribing a boat that sait for a long time more over 5-6 months try atless a yr or more for things to get this bad.

As for your statment,The boat is priced pretty well in my opinion @14,000.00 and the owner is going to have everything fixed before i buy. Im just trying to figure out if theres anything here i should really be concerned with.
I would be concerned on the Bellows,Gimble bearing,inpeller,drive shaft yoke & joints,upper & lower unit seals.For that price $14,000 that's alot jack.For that price,I would tell the owner of the boat to replace all upper & lower seals including the drive shaft u-joints & seal & o-ring,Gimble bearing,All 3 Bellows,Shift cable,inpeller and full tuneup on the engine including wires,cap & rotor,Timing chain or belt.Have a compression & water test done on all cylinders.New trim cylinders & pump installed as well.
Sounds like you better be thinking of finding a better deal?Because,this boat need a full over haul.For $14,000?Ya,owner better include alot of fixes.You can buy a brand new 20 ft boat for $12,000.Who's mechanic looked at it yours or the owners?
 
Its a little bigger than 20 ft but i had it done by a top notch place that load tests everything in a huge pool etc... i paid 270.00 to have it looked at. Im sure glad i did. They supposedly check everything.
 
If I paid for the report the owner would not get a copy until he paid half. I still say run like the wind.
 
Well,not to sound corney here.But,finding the right boat is like finding the right woman.It's either the one or it's not.Doesn't matter what's wrong with it.Or the price.
To me I see red flags from what you stated about the inspection report.Like playing ball three strikes your out so to speak.
The condition of the fuel/smell after 5-6 months owner stating not running-boating.Takes longer then 6 months for fuel to go bad.I would say the owner is lieing on that statement for sure been, longer then that..That's strike one.

The condition as for the trim cylinders leaking, injector Code and Autolite spark plugs.Shows why the owner decided to sell.Autolite spark plugs are cheapest - worthless plugs a person could buy.Why,would a person/owner install Autolite spark plugs in a $14,000 boat.Because,the boat I beleave became a money pit for the owner.Cheapest he can to get it up to par to sell.The sign for strike two is the Autolite spark plugs for sure.Owner shop's at autozone.

Last,"Injector Plug clips all broken need replace".Clips don't just break on their own.Who ever worked on that boat engine last didn't know how to remove the clips.They just,simply pulled them using a screw driver & broke the clips.Then,we need to ask are selves why was the clips broke in the first place?Because,someone removed the Injectors and possiblely the fuel rail.I would put money on it that the intake manifold was removed.Or that answer's your question why the #5 injector Code.For all the clips to be broke mean's all injectors was removed.You need to have owner take off the carb breather.To see if the carb pops when given throutle.I think you got a bad cam.Or bad timing chain or timing belt.If any of these are bad?You won't get a correct computer reading.Let's face it,We already know the owner replaced a injector or all as signs of all clips broke.And then,still getting the #5 injector Code.It's not the injectors.Cylinder isn't firing.A compression test won't tell you if the cam or timing chain or belt is bad.Needs to be put on a timing light for signs of timing mark jumping.So your 3rd strike is the clips broke.For what reason unknown.
Sure,the owner will pay to have everything fixed.We are talking $14,000 from a $5,000 boat.Nice profit the owner is getting.And unloading as well.
 
Is it really a $14,000 boat?What's it worth?Bluebook it?If not Bluebook call a bank for correct value of the boat.You already paid $270.00.Your'll be paying that once again after the owner fixes all the repairs.Have him fix the boat.Offer him $10,000.Give him a week to think about it.He will come running.
 
If you are still really hooked on the boat, just consider it this way. What would you pay for it with "no motor"? Because based on what was found (nevermind what "wasn't" found - this model year also has/had chronic overheat issues that took a redesign of the cooling system to correct) you would be essentially buying a boat with no motor.

NADA pegs the value of the boat at between about $9900 and $11,350 depending on the options included and condition.

So as suggested, make an offer of 10K. You would still need to throw another 12-15K (low retail for a NEW motor) or maybe half that for a recent (used) one at it - or you could keep shopping..
 
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