You can use either Champion J4C or J6C plugs gapped at .030. Due to the engine's age, the J6C may provide somewhat improved performance.
If you screw up the timing, PM me with your email address and I'll send you the factory manual service setup to correct it properly. Just be sure to remind me of this post and what you need.
Carburetor adjustments are as follows:
(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)
NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". The high speed jets would be located in back of the two bottom drain screws. Follow the below instructions accordingly.
NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.
Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.
Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that vibration won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amount of effort.
(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.
(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)
(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:
http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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The spark plug wires can be built as follows:
(Replacing Screw In Type Plug Wires)
(J. Reeves)
It's next to impossible to find replacement spark plug wires for the older engines that have the brass screw in terminals which screw into a distributor cap. The solution to correcting a spark plug wire (or a coil wire in some cases) of this type is as follows:
Purchase however many brass screw in terminals as you may require (OMC Part #510364). Price is about $1.75ea. If you also need the spark plug boots and the spring terminals that connect to the spark plugs, purchase them also (OMC Part #581027). This includes one boot and one spring connector. Price is about $3.25ea.
Purchase whatever amount of spark plug wire you need. Be sure to purchase the kind that has a steel twisted wire leading through the center of it....... not the carbon type plug wire that many automobiles now use.
Have a piece of 2"x4" handy or any other piece of wood that will suffice, and if you have a vise, clamp that piece of wood in it. Punch or drill whatever amount of holes you want in the top portion of the wood...... you want a almost perfect size hole that you can easily screw one of the brass screw in terminals into. I normally use just one hole, reusing it as many times as necessary. The terminal should screw or push in easily so that removal is just as easily...... but you do want the terminal to be held securely.
Using your old plug wire, cut the new wire to a length about one inch longer. If you have no old plug wire, just make sure that the wire is longer than you'll need as you can trim the other end later. The end that the brass screw in terminal will go on... cut the insulation back about 1/4". With your finger, seperate the wire strands so that they are seperated and angled off at about a 45° angle when viewing the wire being held straight up. Tint those wires with electrical solder, then fold them down against the wires insulation, cutting the excess of so that the wire ends do not extend past the circumference of the wires insulation, meaning..... holding the wire dead on, those tinted wires form a circle.
NOTE: Electrical solder is 60% Tin and 40% lead with a Rosin Flux Core, available just about anywhere.
Before doing any solder work on the brass terminal, check to make sure that the wire you've just prepared will slide into the brass terminal withough being forced.
With a hand held propane torch with a pencil tip, heat the brass terminal just hot enough to fill it with "Electrical Solder". Do not use any other type solder. Do not overheat the terminal. When the solder is a liquid, filling the brass cup, having the prepared spark plug wire handy, insert the prepared wire end into the melted solder within the terminal..... and hold it there for a few seconds to have the connection secure. That should take care of the screw in brass terminal end. Use "Caution" as that melted solder could spit out somewhat as the wire is shoved into the brass terminal.
The above procedure also holds true for the engines that have "Battery Capacitance Discharge" ignition, which is a fancy name for a battery operated powerpack.... quite a few engines in the 1968 to 1972 range. That would be the type that has one coil whereas the coil wire screws into a distributor cap located under the flywheel.
The rubber boot, spark plug end.... With the wire cut to the length required, trim back 1/4" insulation again but do not solder tint the wires. Simply fan out the wires and fold them back against the insulation, cutting the excess off as explained above. Holding the spring wire terminal, estimate where the prong should be inserted so that the spring will be flush against the exposed wire. Hold the spring terminal away from the wires end (sideways) and insert the prong into the insulation and into the center wire, then swing the spring terminal in front of the exposed wire portion (makes a tight fit for continuity purposes).
Spraying the inner portion of the boot where the wire will insert with a small amount of WD40 makes the installation of the wire a easy project. That's it.... you're done.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:
http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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