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my XP 150 overheating alarm

Tony Tiger

New member
I have 88 XP 150 changed impellar now overheat alarm is sounding after a few minutes idling.
My top starboard cylinder and the one below are reaching 198° but rest are within the acceptable range.
I removed T-stats and put them in 180° water and they opened.
Any ideas?
 
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Is this while running at idle on a flushette, in a barrel, or actually in the water?

If on a flushette, the water must be turned on full blast. If so, Is it?
 
Yes running water thru the ears hooked to a hose turned wide open .
Starts as intermittent horn a second or two apart then turns constant.
Checked cylinder temps with my Raytek infared tester .
 
Tony.... The only thing I can think of at the moment that would affect the heat range of separate cylinders are the "Rubber Water Deflectors" that are inserted into the water passageways at various places to control the flow of the water. These would be pictured in any parts manual pertaining to your engine.

In time they do have a habit of swelling/expanding sideways... and when that takes place, the water flow is somewhat blocked, sometimes completely. It is unusual for the swelling to just affect two cylinders but it has happened.

Unfortunately the only way to inspect, remove, replace, them is to remove the cylinder heads... BUT... if it were me, that's the route I'd take. The following is taken from my database and may be of use to you.
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(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

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Thank you for the info Joereeves.
Let me ask you couple more questions.
1 aside from tell tale water stream should I have a stream water coming from small hole by gear oil plug by water inlet on starboard side of motor also stream from back weep hole and a stream on each side of LU shooting downward?
 
Tony... I assume the lower unit has been off a few times since 1988. The small holes you speak of are water drain holes, designed for engine to be used in area with freezing temperatures. I really don't recall seeing any water shooting out those areas (drains) in my 30+ years at the bench... but water will certainly be draining from them when lifted out of the water.

However, if when installing the lower unit, if the seals on top of the water pump were forgotten (if they exist), or if the large rubber seal of the exhaust tube wasn't greased slightly and got folder over somewhat... yeah, that might exert some water pressure on those drain holes... won't hurt anything though. Next water pump change, check it out.

The leakage between the lower unit and the long exhaust housing, if that is what you are also speaking of... that's a metal to metal meeting surface and will quickly fill with marine debris (normal happening), but if it bugs you... drop the lower unit about 1/4" or so and use the following sealer (real sticky stuff) that I swore by from day one. In a tube, easy to use.

Bombardier 3M Product #847 and may be listed as Scotchgrip 847, part number 776964
 
Thanks for the info I'll check it out.
I just pulled pressure valves out and found some metal debris in both so maybe I just need to pull cylinder head covers off and give it a good once over.
Never had any problems till installed new impellar aside from once or twice when it was under heavy load pulling a tube behind it .
 
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Personally I never checked the heat temperatures out per cylinder... just grabbed it with my hand, that sort of thing.

Strange that problems popped up after a impeller change... perhaps the water tube hit the edge of the grommet in the pump housing and folded it over somewhat like a shut-off valve? (It happens).

Question: Have you always checked the heat rage per cylinder and all was well on prior checks... or is this the very first you've checked per cylinder. Wondering if that could somehow be the norm?? Retired in 1991 but up to that time, actually up to this time, two cylinders overheating on a V6 is something new to me.
 
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