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motor hard starting after sitting a month

T

tkms002

Member
I have a model year 2000 200 EFI Merc. It sat for a month or so. I took it out to the lake to test a new kicker I had installed. When I went to start the 200 it ran very slowly and would not allow any additional throttle or it would quit. After a few of these starts and stops it began to stop immediately after starting. I would crank it, it would fire like once and kick out the starter then quit. Over and over again. I drifted around the lake a while testing the new 15 hp and then went to try starting the big motor again. It acted like it did at the doc. It would start and run very weekly for a bit but would not allow any throttle. After many attempts it finally allowed me to advance the throttle in neutral. After revving it a bit it seemed to clear up and then ran fine for the rest of the morning.
When it initially started and kept running it smoked a LOT for a minute or so then cleaned up. It has been smoking a lot after sitting a while for some years now but never refused to start. Could the oil injection be leaking or something like that?
Looking for any suggestions as to what might cause this. The primer bulb remained firm during all this.
 
I don't have an EFI but I do have a carbureted 2002 115. I recently added an electric fuel pump between the 24 gallon BIT with a water separating filter (just for grins since I seldom use the boat and the BIT has had a lot of fuel run through it over the years...and water and crud one would surmise). It is quite obvious having fuel ready to be burned where it gets burned does matter in fast starting seldom used engines.
 
Run your engine up to temp, shut it off, wait a few minutes (5-10) and remove the oil fill cap and listen for air purging....

If air purges, change the oil tank pulse/check valve. You will find it at the end of the oil tank pulse line on the engine... Make sure the pulse line is not collapsed and is clear.

When the check valve fails, it does not release the pressure in the oil tank and will over oil causing hard start and excess smoke. The longer the engine sits between starts the worse it is.

YOU CANNOT CLEAN THIS VALVE!!! They are cheap, replace it.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
Run your engine up to temp, shut it off, wait a few minutes (5-10) and remove the oil fill cap and listen for air purging....

If air purges, change the oil tank pulse/check valve. You will find it at the end of the oil tank pulse line on the engine... Make sure the pulse line is not collapsed and is clear.

When the check valve fails, it does not release the pressure in the oil tank and will over oil causing hard start and excess smoke. The longer the engine sits between starts the worse it is.

YOU CANNOT CLEAN THIS VALVE!!! They are cheap, replace it.
Click to expand...

looking at marineengine.com I cannot find a part with that name.
30738.gif

is it on this picture??
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
Run your engine up to temp, shut it off, wait a few minutes (5-10) and remove the oil fill cap and listen for air purging....

If air purges, change the oil tank pulse/check valve. You will find it at the end of the oil tank pulse line on the engine... Make sure the pulse line is not collapsed and is clear.

When the check valve fails, it does not release the pressure in the oil tank and will over oil causing hard start and excess smoke. The longer the engine sits between starts the worse it is.

YOU CANNOT CLEAN THIS VALVE!!! They are cheap, replace it.
Click to expand...

Did you check every thing listed above?
Follow the hose, you will find the valve.
 
tkms002 said:
OK I see where it points to a check valve on the engine block.
The cap you are talking about, is it the one on the main oil tank or the one under the engine cowling?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Correct terminology: The Oil tank on the engine is the "Main Oil Tank"

The tank mounted in the boat hull that you fill is the "Reserve Oil Tank"

You remove the cap from the reserve oil tank.
 
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