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Mercury 25 0D266256

trynhooker

trynhooker

Regular Contributor
Shall we begin..
When cranking motor with DVA connected to either cylinder, I only see voltage when I let go of key switch... stop cranking.

I disconnect stator from SB and test there and get correct voltages.
Reconnect, remove green wire to cyl, same as before, voltage on meter when I stop cranking.

So the stator and trigger are generating correct voltages when NOT connected to SB. All resistance is good also on all components.

JUST REPLACED SB 30 min ago, exact same issue!

Also, the engine will randomly lean pop (doesn't sound like a backfire) if I crank it for more than 5-10 sec, but never starts.
It sometimes sounds like it's going to start when I stop cranking as above when the voltages appear as you can hear and see the engine kick.
Also, I've tried disconnecting kill wires, yellow to rect/reg, but still the same. This engine has a R/R not just the reg as shown in parts.

It has new battery, new starter I replaced last year and of course the engine ran great when I had it then.

What am I missing here?
 
I just went and swapped wires to coils. #1 was G/W and #2 was G/Y.
Now it's g/y #1 - g/w-#2. I only have a older drawing so it may be incorrect.

After swapping wires, cranked engine, wouldn't start, turned off key, engine stopped spinning.... wait for it...... engine then popped again when it was off..

Dang gremlins.
 
faztbullet said:
Disconnect blk/yell from SB
Click to expand...
I've tried everything including that, but thanks.
Monday I will remove key switch and test it.

Logically, even if kill system was causing it, there shouldn't be voltages showing up when I stop cranking.

When I say stop cranking, I'm going from start- no voltage to run position- voltage shows up then goes to 0. Not start to off.
 
Same switch it had last year. It may be bad but I'm going to ohm the stator/trigger etc., again.

I really need the wiring diagram for the mic 90's motors. I have book for 2001 +, but the only wiring diagram that's similar in it is for up to 15hp. It's the only one that matches g/y and g/w to coils
 
I think I've found it. Just went out, D/C main cable harness to shifter, same result, No voltage at coils, connected or disconnected.

D/C stator and trigger leads.
It's about 68° here in shade where boat sits.

Color to OEM ohms VOLTS RESULTS
B/Y GND 3250-3800 180-400V 3240/400
B/W GND 150-250 25-100V 145/28
Br/Y Br/W 650-850 4V + 14.5M+/3.7
Br/Y GND Open 1V + forgot to test
Br/W GND Open 1 V + forgot to test

When I tested the other day I didn't notice the trigger had so high resistance, but I did a lot of cranking that day so it could have got worse. I moved around trigger wires today but it had no effect on res.

You guys agree with the trigger being bad lol?
 
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