Mercruiser 3.0 TKS flooding?

[MTBGCA]

Hello,

I've been trying to resolve a warm start problem with my 2011 3.0 TKS. Here is the initial problem: hard start when run until warm (30 min) and then off for a while - hard to start but always starts. Last two times out trying to troubleshoot and now it hardly runs at low RPM, starts okay but need to keep RPM 1,500 to 2,000 to keep it running when warm.

I've done all the troubleshooting in the Merc. #41 service manual. I've bench tested the TKS module last year and it extended as per spec but a little slow. TKS module resistance was to spec. Bench tested the temperature switch and it responds as per spec. Have not been able to check the oil pressure switch when running, checks okay not running.

Had various results when trying to check things when running and when not running when warm.

As a last resort I checked the load on the TKS module by sticking a multi meter in line an found it was drawing about 0.375 Amps consistently. This tells me that the electrical circuit is operating correctly.

I'm thinking of puling the TKS unit again tomorrow and check it out again. The only other thing I can think of is to spray carb cleaner into the TKS barrel on the carb.

The only thing I can think of is that the TKS plunder is getting stuck and not closing the fuel supply.

I've also noticed an oily liquid on the carb at the flame arrester.

Any ideas as to what is is or what else to do?

Thanks in advance.....

 

[sandkicker]

The TKS plunger controls an enrichment circuit. I've had a problem with my engine with the same carb wherein the engine starts normally when cold but after warming up won't run under 1200 to 1500 RPM. After much effort tracked problem to a partial blockage of the one or both of the jets on the venturi clusters ( i.e., the "fangs")... No solvent I've ever found clears them nor will an air hose. I use a numbered drill bit of the correct size to clear them out.... a whiteish hard deposit is the culprit. By correct size I mean one that fits in the hole in the end but does not touch the metal sides of the tubes. The pros use an ultrasonic cleaner. If you coat the gasket in the top of the carb with a thin film of grease on both sides, the gasket will survive several open/close cycles.