kghost, just for fun......, consider this as an alternative, or a supplemental method, for the OEM lower shift cable adjustment.
You must get the OEM procedure out of your mind while doing so, and for the moment, forget the 5 -15/16” dimension!
Keep in mind that the OEM design has allowed (or has considered) that cable travel provides slightly more than what is necessary for either gear engagement!
Our job is to locate center of all components, for "neutral"! Would you agree?
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Using your/OEM procedure, rotate prop back/forth just as you have described above.
Rotate the propeller rather quickly back/forth...... and continue doing this....
trying not to vary from your rhythm!
The person in the engine bay will be moving and adjusting the lower shift cable until the sound of the Dog Teeth can just be heard making initial,
but NOT FULL Gear Engagement!
(this is where we/OEM differ)
Shoot for just the mild ratcheting sound of initial sliding sleeve contact ONLY... No Full engagement!
Reason: once the Dog Clutch engagement teeth have made initial engagement, the remaining engagement becomes a function of dynamics. IOW, we do not need further cable travel to complete this engagement. (assuming that these are in great condition)
This is the same force that we must over-come with a shift from gear, back into neutral! Hense the SI!
When this "Initial" clicking is heard, make note of where you are in terms of cable travel or position.
Now do this for the opposite gear engagement...... again,
just the mild ratcheting sound of initial contact ONLY.
Again, note where you are in terms of cable travel or position.
Here is the key point, IMO:
When this noted travel is "split/divided" equally, and when adjusted to this "split", we have now determined a more true "Neutral" position of the lower cable relative to the
actual "Neutral" position of the Dog Clutch sliding sleeve!
IOW, we have effectively centered the sliding sleeve
AND the cable travel at the engine mounted shift unit!
Do this several times in each direction, until you are comfortable that center has been achieved as best you can.
The actual center position of the cable and sliding sleeve is what this entire process is all about.
Again...... would you agree?
IMO, this procedure removes any deviation that we may find from one cable to another, and/or from one piece of adjustment hardware to another.
NOTE: The OEM instructions make an asssumption that all cables and hardware are same!
The OEM also considers that one average dimension will work for
ALL adjustments!
True, for the most part!
I am far from being a "shade tree" mechanic, and I fully understand that this deviates greatly from the OEM procedure. However, there are times when thinking "outside-of-the-box" can be beneficial! This particular procedure is not speculation, it has worked well for me, and is a result of my doing it for years, and with success! (I no longer do any MC work, however.... or at least, not much!)
This may not be for everyone.... I'm just sharing, and tossing it onto the table here!
BTW, this works for the OMC Cobra drive as well.
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I look forward to the day that the "A" drive also evolves into Cone Clutch gear engagement!
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