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Mechanical Fuel Pump Replacement on 1986 Crusader 454

N

Ngeogh

Member
I need to replace the fuel pump on the starboard motor in a 1986 Tiara 3100. Acess to the pump without major dismantling of the engine seems to be almost impossible. I am sure their must be an easier way to access the pump!
Has anyone got any tips or suggestions for this job. Thanks in advance.
Ned
 
You might be better off posting that on a Tiara forum as it's probably more boat specific. On my Trojan, access is pretty good so my Stb pump wasn't that hard to change. Not as easy as the Port engine but not that bad.

Is the stringer in the way?


Bob
 
Not a 454 but two years ago I had to replace my entire 350. The replacement did not have a mechanical fuel pump. We installed an electrical fuel pump ...works fine.
 
Good idea but he would have to install a block off plate where the old pump was located and back to the access issue....
 
Looked at the issue again yesterday and it appears that if I remove the risers, elbows and heat exchanger I should be able to crawl around the back of the engine and get close to the pump.
Since I am due for new risers and elbows, it looks like this might be the best approach. I like the idea of sticking with the mechanical pump as they seem to be fairly reliable.
Thanks for the feedback.
Ned
Long Beach California.
 
Ngeogh said:
Looked at the issue again yesterday and it appears that if I remove the risers, elbows and heat exchanger I should be able to crawl around the back of the engine and get close to the pump.
Since I am due for new risers and elbows, it looks like this might be the best approach. I like the idea of sticking with the mechanical pump as they seem to be fairly reliable.
Thanks for the feedback.
Ned
Long Beach California.
Click to expand...

How do you get to the RW pump? It's pretty close to the fuel pump. On my pumps, i replaced the hex head bolts with allen heads, it will make it a little bit easier next time.
 
If you do go to an electric pump, I don't see any reason why you couldn't leave the old mechanical pump in place and just run a short piece of fuel hose from the inlet to outlet. The "weep hole" would also have to be blocked in a similar manner.
 
Is there a definitive test i can do on the existing pump to ensure that it is truly faulty before I go to all the hassle of replacement. I am begining to have second thoughts on whether the pump is truly the culprit.
Thanks for the input.
Ned
 
Ned......can you get access to the line connections going in and out of the pump ? First you can use a vacuum/pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure at the carb. Next you could disconnect the input to the fuel pump and take a small portable fuel tank and plumb it to the pump, if she runs good then, you can discount the engine as your problem since you have taken everything else out of the system. If she still runs bad then the pump or something on the engine is the culprit. It's a good way to eliminate about 1/2 of the possibilities. Depending on those results you'll be able to decide where to go from there...Let us know....Lee
 
Lee
Thanks for the advice. I think I will start with the fuel pressue check. Any idea what the pressure should be on a mechanical pump?
Ned
 
Thanks for the info. I am trying to find a fuel pressure tester that will screw onto the fuel pipe where it connects to the carb. However all the testers I come across have a rubber hose that pushes onto a barb fitting. Has anyone seen a tester with the type of connector I need?
Ned
 
Ned...No luck on a tester like that, I just picked up some barb fittings an some fuel line and plumb it together, You'll need to do something similar if you connect an auxilliary fuel tank to your pump for the next test too. All together you should be able to do it for $20. Actually the fitting you screw into the carb should also go into the fuel pump, so you'll only need 1 of them..... You might consider doing the gas tank part first , that way if it runs ok you won't have to do the pump pressure test and you'll save that expense. However , if it doesn't run ok you'll need to do the pressure test next....Lee
 
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Ned:

I haven't seen a 'turn key' part for making that measurement. There are basically three options: 1) remove carb and installed a dedicated pressure measurement port, 2) delete the factory steel line and replace with flexible hose (very easy to 'customize"), or 3) makeup your own as Lee suggests in post #16. That will require a pair of 3/8" inverted flare to 3/8" hose barb adapters, and a 3/8" Tee. Add to that some clamps, hose and maybe a reducer or two and you can make up temporary plumbing that will let the engine run and measure the fuel pump's delivered pressure.
 
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