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Maybe over thinking

C

CCH

Contributing Member
Hi all, so after rebuilding my motor and finding a few small items after the rebuild. All seems to be working well. Did the link and sync and the Joe Reeves timing to 15. Now it is a 60 hp vrt with mixed fuel. Starts great but I can still only get 3000 rpm maybe a crappy amazon tach. It does get the 15 foot sunray up to 25 mph according to the Garman fish finder. My question is if the tach is crap does 25 mph seem right or should it get more. Carbs are all minty fresh rebuilt also. Motor is not hot when run over a hour. Plugs are chocolate brown see pic. In the end should I just live with what I got?
1988 60hp vrt (removed)
CJ60TLCCR model
Thanks20220507_133815.jpg
 
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So just frustrated it almost seems there us a rev limiter but there is none. Just added a new fuel pump runs great but maxes at 3000 rpm it has the 13.750 x 17 prop. Could the timing be delayed that it maxes at 3k but the plugs look great. I know the tack goes above 3k but may still a crappy tach. It does not sound like 5 k when full throttle and the carbs are fully ope Ed and not beyond. A smaller prop say 15 would only give a extra 200 rpm I imagine. Maybe I try that just to seeing the rpms go over 3k. Thoughts???
 
Without being there to see , hear , touch this motor I say it is running on 2 of 3 cylinders.----Up to you to do some trouble shooting.-----Do not run this motor until you find out what is going on here.-----A plugged carburetor could damage this motor.
 
Will try that looking again. All plugs are tan/brown and dry when I stop the motor. It will get right up to plane with about 2200 rpm and just over 1/2 throttle, push it all the way and the rpm goes up no problem to 2980/3000 and stops, no miss or bog. I will put the tester on each plug and see if it stops firing at higher RPM's. When I got this motor the guy gave me parts from another 60hp and I am wondering if the wrong cabs are on the motor but no way to tell. Is there anyway to tell with the tag numbers on them? It would just be the high out put jet on the carb that can cause this?That is easy to get to and clean right on the motor, unless it picked up something and clogged the jet I guess? I do have new filters inline.
 
Ok took the boat out again and clean the carbs theses are mint and no blockages found but cleaned and cleared all jets. Putting a smaller prop to see if this gets me up past 3000 it should I assume get to 3500 as it was and maybe 4500 to 5k. Cut and repaired a pinched coil lead incase it was losing spark or something. All plugs still look great.
 
Update!!! Still no good news.
Replaced CDI
Carbs are clean but may put 3 different ones on for the same motor
Tried a 2" diameter smaller prop and still max rpm is 3000.
Going to try a new set of carbs.
Am I missing something!!!I
Is there a possible safety limiting RPM. I can fond anything that would do that. If So i would try to jumonitmout
 
as Racerone says Do not run this motor until you find out what is going on here.-----A plugged carburetor could damage this motor, ask me how i know. sure sounds like clogged high speed jet, i know its not recommended to run it but if you do, what happens if you push in key when it boggs
 
Morning and thanks. Problem is the motor runs great no boggs what so ever it just does not go past 3000 rpm. Starts and idles at about 700 put it in gear and pin it it climbs to 3000 no issues, planes at about 2200. It is like there is a hard stop at 3000. Carbs have been cleaned to many times now to be clogged. Put a small.prop on and same issue not a single change. Going to check timing again maybe that is way out. I think if I get it to 3000 the timing should be close to 19. A real head scratcher, I could get 3000 out of it with 3 bad pistons before the rebuild and they had 70-90 compression and now I have like 115 to 120
 
They were oem replacements and it did come flush with the cylinder head, sorry actual.number I do not have. I get the question if it was a shorter piston there would be less compression. But at 115 to 120 is ok for a rebuild it should go up a bit once break is over. Only have about 1-2 hours now actual run time so far.
 
Start motor.-----Disconnect one spark at a time.------Note changes in operation each time you do this.---Why was motor taken apart ??------What was wrong with old pistons ??-----Any holes in the block anywhere ?
 
Old pistons were gouged beyond belief 70 and less compression, same for cylinder walls. Sent the block to a resleeving company the installed new sleeves and provided new pistons and rings. Replaced all bearings while I was at it. Beginning to think maybe it I way out of timing.
 
Ok started motor let her warm up idling great, proceed to starting pulling plug wire. Each one displayed the same result. After pulling each one the motor started missing and rough idle. Same for all three so getting spark to each cylinder. So with a small section of river to play with say 100 yards i pin the throttle rpm climbs to 2500 rpm but it is plowing due to distance. Typically I have miles of river but it's exceptionally low and cost me a new prop and skeg already this year.
 
There is something wrong with your motor.-----Stop running it.------What new sleeves did they install ?-----What pistons did you install.------Were pistons installed correctly.------What is piston to bore clearance ?-----What is the ring end gap ?-----Is the flywheel key sheared.------Are inner magnets on flywheel loose ?
 
Hi the company that did the work is well know for excellent work and trust the did a great job. Ring clearance I believe when I measured was inspec .011if I recall. Pistons were installed correctly if fact checked a few times. So before I got this message I put a old prop on 12" diameter again ran great it topped out at 25 mph. Again tack says 3000 I think the tack is the issue at that speed with a 12" prop. Engine was warm but not hot for 45 minute run. Going to purchase the correct 13.750 x 17 prop and unless there is anything out standing I will assume the tack is the cause. There is no obvious sounds or issues other than rpm being low. Attachednis a photo of what the plugs look like after this run20220515_114213.jpg
 
Hello Raceone, I put the piston in my self and I placed them in just like the old ones where, there were no arrows on the heads just numbers on both sides of the head. So I assumed the arrow side was the up side of the number. When they are placed the upside of the number is facing the top of the block so if you.where at the back of the motor looking in the number would be right side up at the top side of the bloc20220515132816.jpg
k, did that make sense? I have been told that wisco pistion actually not have a right way they can just be installed, now these are not wisco but they also did not have an arrow. I had a camera and took a picture the numbers that you see are on the bottom of the block there are numbers also at the top side but not visible in the photo
 
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I think I will then without arrows the pins in the ring groove needs to be facing the intake side which is up I believenor is that incorrect?
 
20220515_194544.jpg
So took the head off just to show the pistons. I will take the exhaust side just to ensure they are the right directions. Also need to helical my spark ugs as they only tighten hand tight more good news. By the way no damage to any ports which should tell me the pistons are in correctly but will check. Hoping I don't have to take it all apart but if I do well
 
20220516_183113.jpg
Took the 60 apart. Looks like they nay have been upside down. Photo is the new install position looking down from the top. There are now two ports on the exhaust side. No markings on the pistons to indicate exhaust side. Caught a video of a rebuild showing the two ports up.
Putting it back together hope all goes well no damage to the walls or pistons
 
The 3 holes ( ports ) in the piston must line up with 3 intake ports in the cylinder.----No ports in the piston that line up with exhaust ports.
 
Shoot sorry wrong picture the piston is now flipped from what is in the photo. The two ports shown are now on the bottom lining up with the bottom two. And the single would line up with the top left cylinder port
 
One last desperate attempt to assist you.----Fact !!--- I looked at a block.----I had a piston like that in my hands a minute ago.----Picture in post #24 shows piston and those 2 ports should face the flywheel.-----Where it says --STD---- it should also be marked ---UP---like a factory piston.----The single port should line up with the port on bottom right of cylinder.-----No ports in piston should line up with exhaust ports.----End of the story.
 
Hi so all pistons now have the 2 ports facing the fly wheel or top of block. Does that sound correct to you as picture 24 shows them facing the top or flywheel.
 
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State the facts.----Were those 2 ports facing the flywheel when you installed them in your rebuild initially.----Were they installed wrong , yes or no ?
 
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