Hi all, this is another one of my "longer" posts...so i have made the key items in bold for you to quickly browse through the important stuff, I hope that makes it easier but just not sure.
Anyway I need some advice on a recently un-froze Evinrude 15 that ran good but overheats and has head issues.
I was recently given a seized up Evinrude 15 that had sat for many years, not sure if it froze from sitting or overheating..but sitting is my guess now.
All I was told about it was that it overheats and is junk..I have no idea the experience level of the person who gave it o me and actually never met the owner. That being said I have no experience at all with internal workings of motors and have no history on this motor so I have to figure it out on my own.
I had to take the head off to get it free'ed up and when I went to put it back on I noticed the last person had installed two head gaskets.
Once I got the cylinders and pistons cleaned out the best I could I decided to put the head back on with one gasket..test the compression and the put both gaskets on and test the compression.
Here are the compression results:
First and foremost..one of the center head bolts (in between the two cylinders) is stripped out and will just spin.
I torqued the rest of them down to spec for one gasket (20 foot pounds)
1 Gasket = 40 top, 50 bottom
2 Gaskets = 80 top, 90 bottom
Both held pressure.
It took me quite a while to clean everything up..tore apart fuel pump to clean it all out, cleaned all grounds, took off carb and cleaned it all out.
But after doing all of that I got it started...man my arms were / are sore form how many pulls I had to do but a lot of that was because I didn't know there was a 'start" position on the tiller handle.
It sounded pretty good to me and I ran it for maybe a minute on muffs while shifting it and checking the rich / lean knob.
It had a good stream of water coming out the tell tail the entire time.
Then I decided to shut it off and re-check compression...the PLUGS WERE VERY HOT so I felt the power head and it was too hot too touch.
Oh and the compression improved just a bit if anything.
First thing I read when ic ame in was possible bad thermostat..at that point I didn't even know where that was but it was easy to figure out (I had the head off and didn't even notice it...lol). I opened the cover to take the T-stat out and there was nothing in there except a plastic cap
So my questions I need help with are...
With this motor having an unknown history of how badly it was overheated what should I do next?
-Should I find the cause of over heating first to see if it's obvious...like a water grommet in exhaust tube plugged or smashed etc.?
-I read the rings could cause over heating...is there a test for this?
-Should I get a new head or try to have this one shaved? How can I tell if it's good enough to shave?
That's all...the rest is for others to read in case they find this thread when searching.
Thank you.
How I unfroze the Seized Motor:
For starters...
I have never done anything like this before, never actually saw an outboard head off in person so this was actually very rewarding for me.
Again the motor had sat for many years and was totally locked up / seized...you couldn't budge the starter rope or flywheel.
Surprisingly after much research, lot's of piston soaking (Deep Creep) and many days of waiting patiently I finally got the motor to free up though and did a funky dance of joy when it happened...lol
The process:
I took out the plugs and soaked both cylinders for probably a week, filling the top of the pistons with Deep Creep spary..I had the motor on a saw horse and turned it in various positions (trying to get the spray to sit all around the pistons instead of on one side) and every day trying to turn the flywheel or pull the rope starter...it never turned after a week so I figured what the heck and pulled the head. This was my first time pulling a head and figured it was a good motor to experiment on since at that point I thought it was my new parts motor.
After pulling the head (just had to remove 8 bolts) I saw where the pistons were rusted to the cylinders and they looked in rather good shape so I proceeded to lightly tap the top of the pistons using a large diameter pipe with a rag between the pipe and piston to help absorb the shock a bit. This was scary for me as I did not know how hard I could hit things without causing more damage but I slowly increased the tapping a bit and saw the pistons finally move justa bit...yay! I still used patient as hard it was and didn't force anything to move faster than I felt it should...more spray and waiting..a bit more tapping and a bit more waiting. Maybe an hour or so of this off an on.
Finally they were moving with hardly any force so I could see the cylinders all the way down to the ports (holes that pull gas in and let exhaust out I guess) and they didn't have any visible marks in them at all other then just a small little black dot where the cylinders and pistons were rusted together..I couldn't feel it with my finger though. I went ahead and moved the pistons to the half way point (so the Deep Creep would not dump out the ports) and let it soak another day. Slowly worked the starter rope while spraying more Deep Creep in the cylinders.
All in all it was actually easy to free this motor up..the waiting part was the hardest and if the motor had been a good runner that I knew of the tapping on the pistons with a hammer and pipe would have been delayed a bit longer.
Hope this helps someone in the future...the motor actually ran and sounded good one day later (but with several hours of work still) and there is at least an over heating issue that still needs to be dealt with / diagnosed.
Anyway I need some advice on a recently un-froze Evinrude 15 that ran good but overheats and has head issues.
I was recently given a seized up Evinrude 15 that had sat for many years, not sure if it froze from sitting or overheating..but sitting is my guess now.
All I was told about it was that it overheats and is junk..I have no idea the experience level of the person who gave it o me and actually never met the owner. That being said I have no experience at all with internal workings of motors and have no history on this motor so I have to figure it out on my own.
I had to take the head off to get it free'ed up and when I went to put it back on I noticed the last person had installed two head gaskets.
Once I got the cylinders and pistons cleaned out the best I could I decided to put the head back on with one gasket..test the compression and the put both gaskets on and test the compression.
Here are the compression results:
First and foremost..one of the center head bolts (in between the two cylinders) is stripped out and will just spin.
I torqued the rest of them down to spec for one gasket (20 foot pounds)
1 Gasket = 40 top, 50 bottom
2 Gaskets = 80 top, 90 bottom
Both held pressure.
It took me quite a while to clean everything up..tore apart fuel pump to clean it all out, cleaned all grounds, took off carb and cleaned it all out.
But after doing all of that I got it started...man my arms were / are sore form how many pulls I had to do but a lot of that was because I didn't know there was a 'start" position on the tiller handle.
It sounded pretty good to me and I ran it for maybe a minute on muffs while shifting it and checking the rich / lean knob.
It had a good stream of water coming out the tell tail the entire time.
Then I decided to shut it off and re-check compression...the PLUGS WERE VERY HOT so I felt the power head and it was too hot too touch.
Oh and the compression improved just a bit if anything.
First thing I read when ic ame in was possible bad thermostat..at that point I didn't even know where that was but it was easy to figure out (I had the head off and didn't even notice it...lol). I opened the cover to take the T-stat out and there was nothing in there except a plastic cap
So my questions I need help with are...
With this motor having an unknown history of how badly it was overheated what should I do next?
-Should I find the cause of over heating first to see if it's obvious...like a water grommet in exhaust tube plugged or smashed etc.?
-I read the rings could cause over heating...is there a test for this?
-Should I get a new head or try to have this one shaved? How can I tell if it's good enough to shave?
That's all...the rest is for others to read in case they find this thread when searching.
Thank you.
How I unfroze the Seized Motor:
For starters...
I have never done anything like this before, never actually saw an outboard head off in person so this was actually very rewarding for me.
Again the motor had sat for many years and was totally locked up / seized...you couldn't budge the starter rope or flywheel.
Surprisingly after much research, lot's of piston soaking (Deep Creep) and many days of waiting patiently I finally got the motor to free up though and did a funky dance of joy when it happened...lol
The process:
I took out the plugs and soaked both cylinders for probably a week, filling the top of the pistons with Deep Creep spary..I had the motor on a saw horse and turned it in various positions (trying to get the spray to sit all around the pistons instead of on one side) and every day trying to turn the flywheel or pull the rope starter...it never turned after a week so I figured what the heck and pulled the head. This was my first time pulling a head and figured it was a good motor to experiment on since at that point I thought it was my new parts motor.
After pulling the head (just had to remove 8 bolts) I saw where the pistons were rusted to the cylinders and they looked in rather good shape so I proceeded to lightly tap the top of the pistons using a large diameter pipe with a rag between the pipe and piston to help absorb the shock a bit. This was scary for me as I did not know how hard I could hit things without causing more damage but I slowly increased the tapping a bit and saw the pistons finally move justa bit...yay! I still used patient as hard it was and didn't force anything to move faster than I felt it should...more spray and waiting..a bit more tapping and a bit more waiting. Maybe an hour or so of this off an on.
Finally they were moving with hardly any force so I could see the cylinders all the way down to the ports (holes that pull gas in and let exhaust out I guess) and they didn't have any visible marks in them at all other then just a small little black dot where the cylinders and pistons were rusted together..I couldn't feel it with my finger though. I went ahead and moved the pistons to the half way point (so the Deep Creep would not dump out the ports) and let it soak another day. Slowly worked the starter rope while spraying more Deep Creep in the cylinders.
All in all it was actually easy to free this motor up..the waiting part was the hardest and if the motor had been a good runner that I knew of the tapping on the pistons with a hammer and pipe would have been delayed a bit longer.
Hope this helps someone in the future...the motor actually ran and sounded good one day later (but with several hours of work still) and there is at least an over heating issue that still needs to be dealt with / diagnosed.