From what you've had to say, the compression is fine at 118 psi and the spark jumps a 7/16" gap with a strong blue spark which is also fine, and you feel confident that the flywheel key isn't sheared.
Okay... that leaves the fuel system. You state that the engine doesn't stay running under a load. You seem to indicate that it does run in gear at slow rpms but not at the higher rpms. (answered further down here).
If the primer bulb pumps up hard, it's okay. You didn't answer that question... does it make any difference if you act as a manual fuel pump by constantly pumping the fuel primer bulb?
I don't know what you mean by saying that the engine runs okay at the dock in 1/4 or 1/2 load.... however, if you're saying that the engine runs fine in gear until you attempt to apply full throttle, and then it simply bogs and dies out, that scenario describes a fouled, gummed, clogged carburetor... in which case, remove, clean, and rebuild it. Be sure to manually clean the brass high speed jet that in horizontally located in the bottom center portion of the carburetor float chamber (way in back of the drain screw) with a piece of single strand steel wire as solvent just doesn't do a proper job of it.
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.
Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:
http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)
The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.
Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.
The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.
Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.
The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.
Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.
Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.
Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:
http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
