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Leaking fuel

Golfnstanley

New member
New to the forum. I have a 96 evinrude 175 intruder. I have a fuel leak and can’t find where it’s coming from, my question is, does it hurt the engine to turn it over( it won’t start) so I can see where it’s leaking from. Thanks
stanley
 
New to the forum. I have a 96 evinrude 175 intruder. I have a fuel leak and can’t find where it’s coming from, my question is, does it hurt the engine to turn it over( it won’t start) so I can see where it’s leaking from. Thanks
stanley
As Racer said, pump the primer bulb and look everywhere with a bright light. I have a '96 Intruder 150 and fixed multiple leaks this past spring. There are some common items on these Intruders and there are leaks common to just about any outboard.
1) Carb Float Chambers
These plastic float chambers have 2 very notorious leak points. One is a pressed in BB on the side. This is a passage that was drilled during manufacturing then filled with a BB to seal it. Over time the plastic shrinks and fuel leaks around the BB. The second is the chamber itself warps and you get leaks around the carb gasket. If either of these is an issue the best solution is to new float chambers. Before installing these I would suggest a coat of fuel resistant JB Weld epoxy over the BB's and they'll never leak again.
2) VST
There is a gasket on the top of the VST where the lid screws on that can leak
3) Filter
The cone shaped filter has 2 O-rings on it that can harden with age and leak
4) Primer Solenoid
The gasket on the primer solenoid or the o-ring on the red selector switch can hard and leak
5) Fuel Pump
Sometimes with age the body of the fuel pump can become brittle and crack
6) Fuel Floats
The needle and seat on the float valve can wear and not fully seal causing excess fuel to run through the carb. Also, incorrect float adjustment won't seat the needle and allow to much fuel to flow.

This past spring I spent about $1,000 on parts going through my fuel system to address several issues on the 25 year old engine. I replaced all 6 float chambers, 6 carb rebuild kits, a new fuel filter and o-rings, new OMS fuel pump, primer solenoid rebuild kit, and VST gasket. After all that work my leaks are gone and the engine ran like a top all year.

KJ
 
As Racer said, pump the primer bulb and look everywhere with a bright light. I have a '96 Intruder 150 and fixed multiple leaks this past spring. There are some common items on these Intruders and there are leaks common to just about any outboard.
1) Carb Float Chambers
These plastic float chambers have 2 very notorious leak points. One is a pressed in BB on the side. This is a passage that was drilled during manufacturing then filled with a BB to seal it. Over time the plastic shrinks and fuel leaks around the BB. The second is the chamber itself warps and you get leaks around the carb gasket. If either of these is an issue the best solution is to new float chambers. Before installing these I would suggest a coat of fuel resistant JB Weld epoxy over the BB's and they'll never leak again.
2) VST
There is a gasket on the top of the VST where the lid screws on that can leak
3) Filter
The cone shaped filter has 2 O-rings on it that can harden with age and leak
4) Primer Solenoid
The gasket on the primer solenoid or the o-ring on the red selector switch can hard and leak
5) Fuel Pump
Sometimes with age the body of the fuel pump can become brittle and crack
6) Fuel Floats
The needle and seat on the float valve can wear and not fully seal causing excess fuel to run through the carb. Also, incorrect float adjustment won't seat the needle and allow to much fuel to flow.

This past spring I spent about $1,000 on parts going through my fuel system to address several issues on the 25 year old engine. I replaced all 6 float chambers, 6 carb rebuild kits, a new fuel filter and o-rings, new OMS fuel pump, primer solenoid rebuild kit, and VST gasket. After all that work my leaks are gone and the engine ran like a top all year.

KJ



Thanks Kevin. This boat is new to me 97 Statos with a 95 175. Boat was immaculate and it ran good first two times out. It wouldn’t crank this past Saturday and noticed the massive fuel leak when I took the cowling off. I just ordered 6 carb kits from marine engine. The leak is coming from a carb bowl. I didn’t buy new bowls but will order some new. I will save your list and replace all that’s listed. I ordered new water pump as well.
 
Thanks Kevin. This boat is new to me 97 Statos with a 95 175. Boat was immaculate and it ran good first two times out. It wouldn’t crank this past Saturday and noticed the massive fuel leak when I took the cowling off. I just ordered 6 carb kits from marine engine. The leak is coming from a carb bowl. I didn’t buy new bowls but will order some new. I will save your list and replace all that’s listed. I ordered new water pump as well.
Good call on the water pump, that is cheap insurance when you buy a used engine.

Don't forget, the main jet is located behind the drain screw on the carb bowl. The new bowls DO NOT come with the main jet, you have to remove them from the old one and transfer to the new chamber. Many times I've seen threads of people not knowing this and throwing away the old chambers and having to purchase replacement jets.

The carb kit you'll receive will have extra components to fit many years of carbs. Pay attention to how your carbs are assembled and only use those same parts from the kit. My big confusion was a white plastic washer that's meant to seal the fuel seat to the carb body. This is NOT to be used on plastic body carbs. If you install that washer it will cause the float to have an improper angle and close the needle too soon. When installing the needle, seat, and float you will turn over the carb body and make sure the float is parallel with body or just slightly higher at the end opposite the needle.

KJ
 
Good call on the water pump, that is cheap insurance when you buy a used engine.

Don't forget, the main jet is located behind the drain screw on the carb bowl. The new bowls DO NOT come with the main jet, you have to remove them from the old one and transfer to the new chamber. Many times I've seen threads of people not knowing this and throwing away the old chambers and having to purchase replacement jets.

The carb kit you'll receive will have extra components to fit many years of carbs. Pay attention to how your carbs are assembled and only use those same parts from the kit. My big confusion was a white plastic washer that's meant to seal the fuel seat to the carb body. This is NOT to be used on plastic body carbs. If you install that washer it will cause the float to have an improper angle and close the needle too soon. When installing the needle, seat, and float you will turn over the carb body and make sure the float is parallel with body or just slightly higher at the end opposite the needle.

KJ



Thanks for the info about the new carb bowls not coming with the jet. I plan on doing the repairs this weekend. I’ll let you know how it goes. This forum has been very helpful because I’ve never worked on boat engines before only cars. The local marine shop in North Alabama wants 110.00 per carb plus the kit to do it. So for I’ve got 250.00 in the VST gasket, carb bowls and kits, fuel filter and orings, and solenoid rebuild kit
 
Thanks for the info about the new carb bowls not coming with the jet. I plan on doing the repairs this weekend. I’ll let you know how it goes. This forum has been very helpful because I’ve never worked on boat engines before only cars. The local marine shop in North Alabama wants 110.00 per carb plus the kit to do it. So for I’ve got 250.00 in the VST gasket, carb bowls and kits, fuel filter and orings, and solenoid rebuild kit
If you can turn a wrench you can do this work for sure. Hopefully you got OEM parts for the float chambers and carb rebuild kits. I've read of varying levels of success and failure with cheap knockoff kits.

On my boat I did a complete fuel system update: New tank selector switch, all new fuel line, OMS pump, chambers, carb kits, primer rebuild kit, and gaskets. All told I spent about $1,000 in parts! But, in my mind it was all just necessary maintenance on a 25 year old boat.

KJ
 
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