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Just overhauled

D

double_g

Contributing Member
"Just wondering how long It ta

"Just wondering how long It takes to break in a motor that has been overhauled. everything sems to be running good, but not sure how much and how long to wait to run the RPM's up on this motor. I used the same crank with new main bearings and piston bearings. also have new wrist pins and pistons. brand new oil pump. top half was left alone for now. runs great but don't want to push it to early. also one more question. water pump is worrking good when in the water but when hooked up to a water hose it barely pushes water out the exhaust. just rebuilt the water pump and replaced all the seals. also put a brand new fitting on the leg wear the hose hooks up for inlet. any ideas?"
 
"This will give you an idea ab

"This will give you an idea about break-in period.

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/24497.shtml

Regarding your second question, try to immerse the outdrive in a large pail, then fill it with water until it reaches the cavitation plate level. This will prevent the pump from sucking air while you are testing the engine (don't forget to keep adding water to the pail during the test)."
 
"thanks el, by the way i am in

"thanks el, by the way i am installing a new hour meter because the one i got is old and don't work. I know that the negative goes to ground but where does the positive go to. Is it on the ignition switch, the side that leads to the tach?"
 
"Ok El, I just ran my boat in

"Ok El, I just ran my boat in a pail like you said that I cut out and it is not sucking up water. it's a brand new impeller and overhauled the pump it goes in. I ran my boat sunday in the ocean for about 3 hours and did not overheat. Do you think i may have an air leak or something. also I have a little rattling from the leg. sounds like it could be the primary shaft wear it slides into the leg. is it normal to have a little noise coming from there?"
 
"If the impeller is in good co

"If the impeller is in good condition, and the key is installed properly, and the cross piece (part 3 in following link) is installed between the pump and the idler, then the possible sources of air ingress would be gasket 9 in the suction side of the pump not properly installed; or hose calmp (part 55) is loose,

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1907&GroupList=1923,1922,1899,1901,1902,1903,1904,1900,1924,1905,1906,1907,190 8,1909,1910,1925,1926,1911,1927,1912,1913,1914,1915,1916,1917,1928,1929,1930,193 1,1932,1939,1919,1934,1935,1920,1936,1921,1937,1938,1940

or hose clamps (parts 88 and 40A) are loose, or hose connector (part 99) is improperly installed (that is, holding screws are not tight, or the gasket is not sealing properly).

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1924&GroupList=1923,1922,1899,1901,1902,1903,1904,1900,1924,1905,1906,1907,190 8,1909,1910,1925,1926,1911,1927,1912,1913,1914,1915,1916,1917,1928,1929,1930,193 1,1932,1939,1919,1934,1935,1920,1936,1921,1937,1938,1940

Regarding the noise you describe, did you replace the primary shaft bearing in the bellhousing, and did you inspect the condition of the u-joints? Also, did you grease the u-joints and the spline in the primary shaft?"
 
"might be air because it ran g

"might be air because it ran good in the ocean on sunday. I rebuilt the primary shaft as the book explained. new bearing, seals and everything. I did grease the splines before i slid it into the bell housing. One thing i did do was rebuild the engine mounts. so when I lined up the motor it is mostly by eye. I kinda used the tabs from the bell husing to the transom plate. Do you think the alignment could be off or is it real critcal to be exact. I do know it is real close. as far as greasing the u-joints they are inclosed fittings. would i have to dismantle them or change them? I also changed the small bearing that the primary shaft slides into inside the crank shaft. they were all greased also. the noise sounds like it is wear the shaft slides into the u-joints. is there suppose to be any noise at all?"
 
"I don't think the alignme

"I don't think the alignment is the problem, and alignment is not too critical in your type of engine. Remember that some 4 cylinder Volvos actually do "levitate", as they do not have engine mounts.
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If the u-joints do not have grease nipples, that's OK, as long as they are in good shape. Did you change them recently? And if not, have they been a long time in service, or have they been exposed to moisture? They are critical components that when they go, they go; and usually cause quite a bit of damage in the interim.

If the noise is loud enough to worry you, then it probably should not be there. Since you have just replaced the primary shaft bearings and seals, perhaps you should consider replacing the u-joints as well, just to be on the safe side (if you already didn't). If you go that way, make sure you install the ones provided with grease nipples so that you can grease them every year or two."
 
back to problem # 1. o-ring at

back to problem # 1. o-ring at bottom of water tube is common failure. won't show up in water off plane. need to disassemble intermediate to repair.
 
"thanks El, I guess i will che

"thanks El, I guess i will check the u-joints and probably replace them. Scott, not sure what water tube your talking about. all the seals have been changed. I didn't take my boat to a plane because i wasn't sure about breaking it in. also not sure what your talking about with the intermediate."
 
"Scott, I think i know what yo

"Scott, I think i know what your talking about. I need to disassemble the section in the leg. Is this a semple task? or should I have it done?"
 
"The hose connector is very ea

"The hose connector is very easy to remove, just takes a 3/16" Allen wrench for the two screws and a screwdriver for the hose clamp. There is a rubber gasket between the hose connector and the outdrive, mak sure it is in good condition. I always coat the gasket and the Allen screws with Perfect Seal before reassembling."
 
Is this the only seal in the l

Is this the only seal in the leg that i need to worry about. Do I need to remove the middle section of the leg to get to anything like orings inside the bottom of the leg? I pulled the leg and had put atiseize on the spline. u-joint looks ok but can you tell by just looking at it and spinning it by hand? also if i hook a water hose directly to the hose for water pump can i run my motor with the leg off? or will it damage something?
 
"Barry, the o-ring Scott was m

"Barry, the o-ring Scott was mentioning is part 62 on this link

http://www.dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=comp&grou p=1917&GroupList=1923,1922,1899,1901,1902,1903,1904,1900,1924,1905,1906,1907,190 8,1909,1910,1925,1926,1911,1927,1912,1913,1914,1915,1916,1917,1928,1929,1930,193 1,1932,1939,1919,1934,1935,1920,1936,1921,1937,1938,1940

If that o-ring is gone, you will have to dismantle the intermediate housing to replace it (as Scott already said). If you go that way, you should also replace the o-rings around the oil distribution tube and around the vertical shaft. It is not a big job, though; just make sure you have the Seloc or Clymer manuals handy, they will guide you through the process.

Regarding your last question, you certainly can run the engine without having the outdrive connected, as long you have water supply to the raw water pump. Make sure that water does not splash the output shaft area, as that water may later ruin the bearing in the bellhousing. You can either tape a piece of plastic around the end of the bell housing in the area where the drive bellows fits; or, if you leave the bellows attached to the bellhousing, then plug the larger end (last time I went that way, I used a can of Turtle Wax)

Regarding the u-joints, as I said before, I think it is cheap insurance to replace them if you are not sure of their condition and age."
 
"Ok,

Scott was right. o-rin

"Ok,

Scott was right. o-ring is smashed and wasted. looks like I will have to replace all 3 seals in that area as you mentioned El. Ran the motor with a hose attached into a bucket just as you said El and it sucked water up good so i know the leg is the problem. also covered the bell housing where the primary shaft extends through as you mentioned. No noise with out leg but I think i figured out the rattling noise. when I installed the old bellows it was shaped crooked in one direction from going up and down so i think the u-joints were hitting the springs inside the bellows. The u-joint looks pretty cherry. no rust and no play spins really nice. I am going to replace the rubber bellows and seals but when I drained the leg oil it was really black. this don't seem normal. all my bearings and gears were working fine, no water in oil but it looks real black. I know the question to this but I'm going to ask antway. Is the leg oil the same as the engine oil as I have seen on this sight they say the volvo leg uses regular 30 weight motor oil. it also says this in my manual but I am confused because if this is correct the clown that I bought this from never even did change the leg oil. could be the original oil with the color it was. My plan is to replace all the seals and put new oil and test run it. Thanks El and Scott, much mahalos. (thanks)"
 
"The leg oil is supposed to be

"The leg oil is supposed to be the same as the engine oil. The oil should not be black, even if very old, unless it has really overheated and burned. However, if you haven't found any metal particles on it, you may just want to change it for a batch of fresh oil, then run the engine for a couple of hours and then change the oil again. Then, if after running the engine a few times the oil has not changed colour, then it would be safe to assume that there is no problem with the leg.

When you install the new rubber bellows, find which part goes up: it is either marked in the bellows or there are instructions in a sheet inside the bellow's box."
 
"Ok,
sorry I took so long to

"Ok,
sorry I took so long to respond, been really busy. Took the boat on a test run in the lake but did not run the rpm's up due to lake being kinda shallow now. seals all seem to be good but I did a compression test tuesday and the same cylinder #3 is reading 125 lbs. pressure when the other 3 are 150lbs. I tried putting a little oil in the cylinder and the pressure was still 125 lbs. I didn't do a valve job like I should have. Do you think that it is escaping through the valves or top half? This is the smae cylinder that had the bent connecting rod. Well my plan is to pull the head and send it to the machine shop to have a valve job done. Motor seems to run good and is not running hot after doing the leg and stuff, one thing else I did have to retap the spark plug threads in the head but when the spark plug is installed it seems to be sealed good. I don't want to spend the money on a valve job to find out that the head is junk.

thanks for your help,

Barry g."
 
"If you perform a leak-down te

"If you perform a leak-down test, you should be able to pinpoint the leak in #3 cylinder. I think you should do that before removing the head.

Regarding the spark plug threads in the head, consider using heli-coil thread inserts or similar when they become worn. They work really well."
 
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