Logo
FULL SITE MENU

just bought used 2008 9.8 tohatsu 4 stroke

D

dave med

New member
The engine cowl cover gasket was falling off. So i removed gasket, cleaned all the crap that people put on it.used Gorilla super glue to reattach to cover.It appears to be holding on rather well.
Problem i'm having...Hatch lock on back of cover doesn't hold tight. When you try to pick up motor... it easily unattaches.. How can I make it latch nice and tight? Do i have to bend the front hook?
Any ideas would be thankful

Dave
 
Oh Ok!
so they do have a redesign seal and a redesign cowl hatch for the older models?
That will be good...

Thanks for your advice Paul!
any thing else let me know

Dave
 
The newer-design cowl seal 3V2675010M wraps around the edge of the cowl, instead of just being glued to the inside. Factory installation uses stainless staples; Shop installation is to glue it on. Because the gasket is thicker (and taller outside the cowl), it requires a slightly different latch 3AA671201M. We keep them in stock in case someone damages the earlier-style seal.
 
Thanks Again Paul.....I have another ? for you regarding prop pitch. My 9.9 is on a 8.9 ft Caribe hard bottom...very heavy boat. my old motor was a 15 hp Mariner 2 stroke which moved this raft rather well. Although my buddy has a different hard bottom with 9.8 tohatsu 4 stroke and would beat meet in a race. Thats the reason i went forward and purchased a tohatsu. This motor came with a dolphin fin attached. Its slow to get on plan and has NO top end speed. my hANDHELD GPS HAS IT GOIN 14.5 MPH. What can be done with prop to get better performance? I'm a Big Guy Too 240 Ibs I love the 2 pulls to start it and it runs great other then being a Dog. Am I asking to much and just live with it? Or will a different prop make a difference.
I hope you don't just tell me to loss weight lol

Thank Much

Dave
 
Yes, your motor is a little small for the application.

What prop do you have now? Check the cast-in numbers to confirm. You need a relatively shallow pitch for the heavy load.

What is the transom height? Height is the most overlooked rigging parameter... Water should flow just above the antiventilation plate, but below the smaller deflector plate. If the boat has only a 15" transom, you will need to raise a short-shaft 9.8A3 motor up at least an inch... maybe 2 inches.

Trim is critical with a doel fin... if you are trimmed too low, the bow will plow at all speeds, though it might help the hole shot. Higher trim will improve top speed.

Get a tach on the motor to determine WOT RPM. You want to get close to 6,000. Anything under 5,000 and you are lugging.

In short, rig the boat right, then use a tach to determine the best prop pitch, and your patience will be rewarded.
 
Wow...great info Paul. The transom i know is very low to waterline will measure this weekend. How can i raise it up to proper height and still have good attachment?
Where can i get a tach to check rpm? and where do you attach it?
Will check casting number when i go back this weekend. and let you know.
Thanks again Paul!!

Dave
 
Rule of thumb is that the antiventilation plate should be in line with the bottom of the transom, +/- an inch. But only on-water testing can verify correct jack height. Depending on how high you need to go, you can add a shim between the top of the transom and the clamp. Beyond that, you would need to either fabricate a rise to the transom, or get a jack plate. If you have a Long model motor and need a short one, you'll probably be better off swapping for the correct model.

You can get a cheap induction tach (if it works with the extreme high energy and short duration of the ignition pulse), or you can get a Factory round tach if you want a permanent installation. The Factory tach is triggered by the alternator wire. As an alternative, you can get a shop tach, or borrow one.
 
Back
Top