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Johnson/Evinrude 225 wont accelerate once the motor is warmed up

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Willetts

Member
95 Evinrude 225 strange problem. When I lower the boat in the water from the lift it starts and idles fine. Can idle out thru slow zone and accelerates up on plane just fine. I run about 25 minutes to my fishing spot. Shut motors off. Fish for 3 or 4 hours. Motors start and idle fine, the problem is when I go to take off one of the 225's will stumble and stall. The RPM's go to about 1100 then it stalls.
Restarts right up and idles every time. I can go thru this scenario several times and eventually it act normal and runs like a champ. And once up and running it runs great. Yesterday I primed the choke with the key and my son was squeezing the bulb, this seemed to help. Though need more testing may have been a coincidence.
Only happens on one motor and only when the motor has been warmed up. Never happens when leave the dock for the first time. I have done the lynk and sync procedure, I installed a new power pack. Cant understand why it only happens after it has been warmed up, that is what has me confused.
Any suggestions and why it would only happen once warm?
 
The 225hp incorporates two (2) large black coils on the rear portion of that 35 amp stator (under the flywheel). In time, due to heat, of which a great amount collects in the upper portion of the powerhead when it's shut down after a fair amount of running time right under the flywheel where that stators located... the result of which adds to the overheating problem that exists with the 35amp charging system in that area.

When this takes place, either due to a natural stator overheating or due to a voltage regulator/rectifier malfunction, one or both of those black coils start to drip a sticky looking substance down on the timer base and powerhead which, in time, causes the timer base to stick... locking it in a retarded spark situation, and that results in the scenario you describe.

This may not be your problem... BUT... it's the most likely. Check it. Let us know what you find.
 
I'll take a look at it this weekend and report back the findings. So if this is the case I would need to replace the stator and the black coils ?
 
If this is the case, yes, replace the stator assembly. It comes with the black coils... nothing else to purchase.

However, again if this is the case, to prevent double work..... at the same time, remove the timer-base in order to clean the moving surfaces of the timer-base retaining areas.

NOTE: Pertaining to proper lubrication of the timer-base... Grease only on the brass bushing/bearing surface..... Oil only on the nylon retaining ring and associated area.
 
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Willetts said:
95 Evinrude 225 ....I run about 25 minutes to my fishing spot. Shut motors off. Fish for 3 or 4 hours. Motors start and idle fine, the problem is when I go to take off one of the 225's will stumble and stall. The RPM's go to about 1100 then it stalls.
Restarts right up and idles every time.
Click to expand...
Joe has given some great advice and I'll suggest one simple test. My '96 Evinrude 150 was doing the same thing last year. I found the check valve in my primer bulb was bad allowing fuel to flow back into the tank and siphoning fuel away from the carbs.

#1 Remove the primer bulb and squeeze it fully while placing a finger over the inlet side. Do you feel a suction? If yes, good, if not the bulb is bad.

#2 Now squeeze the bulb, hold it down, and while keeping a finger over the outlet side let up on the bulb. Do you feel suction? If yes the check valve is okay, if not the check valve is bad.

On mine it failed the check valve test. After installing a new check valve the line now holds fuel constantly and the engine starts and takes off every time no matter how long I've sat at a fishing spot.

KJ
 
Yesterday I checked and could find no evidence of the black sticky stuff. Fished yesterday ( stripers wouldnt cooperate though) when I went to leave it idled fine, Gave gas to take off and it starts to die, I pushed the key in adding fuel behind the carbs and was able to get the boat going without stalling. In fact I did this at 3 different times at 3 different fishing spots.So it seems to be a fuel issue. I will check the primer bulb per KJ's instructions. The carbs were rebuilt late last summer. No leaks I can see while idling. New VRO installed when the carbs were rebuilt.
 
Agreed... apparently a fuel problem, but the stator issue mentioned was worth looking at.

Also, see the following:
********************
(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

NOTE: There has been cases when the output valve in the fuel primer bulb would come apart, and the inner portion of the valve would actually reverse itself and be drawn back into the primer bulb's output valve body. This in effect would create a shut off valve and result in a fuel restriction. If this is the case, you should be able to feel something laying in the bottom of the primer bulb when held horizontally.

********************
 
Bowls were not replaced and is definetly something I'm thinking about. First will check the primer bulb and anti-siphon valve. If no help I'll probably replace the bowls.
 
Inspect one of the bowls and see if they are possibly warped.----Also run with timing light hooked up and see if spark behavior is the issue.
 
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