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Johnson dies in gear

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sashko12

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"I'm lost and confused...

"I'm lost and confused...
I have 60 HP johnson 1970, 3 cyl.
Bought this motor a month ago with a boat. Previous owner said the motor worked like a charm...

Well, initially (when i had the boat finally home) I couldn't make it run at all. Then after cleaning/rebuilding the carbs she finally fired up!!! But wouldn't run on all 3 cyl's. That's when I decided to also take a look at the distributor side ... Took the whole distributor assembly apart ... Definitely it needed SOME cleaning ... Put it back together ...
Now I experience the major issue - it fires right up, (in the bucket of water) it ran perfectly smooth without the prop as I revved it up in the gear the day before yesterday ... But when I put it in the water yesterday (with the prop) it died as after couple of seconds or so when in gear.
Removed the prop and put in gear worked like a brand new motor! I'm at major confusion point here.
Can some1 help please?
One guy suggested that a bad distributor adjustment might be causing that behavior. Is it possible that I have dislocated something when I took the distributor assembly apart? But it seemed like I put everything back to its original positions."
 
"What are the compression read

"What are the compression readings, all cylinders? Should be 100+ psi and even ona all cylinders.

With the spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 1/4" gap on that model with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?

If the two areas above are as they should be, remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetors, using new complete carburetor kits.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Compression readings: #1 - 11

"Compression readings: #1 - 110, #2 - 115, #3 - 110.

The spark does jump 1/4" gap (can't really judge the brightness - there's nothing to compare it to) - it is bright and blue. The carbs HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY rebuilt as I stated in my previous post.

The question is: is it possible that the distributor adjustment is off just because I reassembled everything in the distr. timing assembly (i.e. Flywheel, rotor, stator, base)?"
 
"The timing would NOT be distu

"The timing would NOT be disturbed UNLESS you loosened the locknut on the rubber tipped full spark advance timing screw and moved that screw one way or the other. Hopefully you didn't do that.

Rebuilding the carburetors..... are you sure that the brass high speed jets located in the bottom center of the float chambers are perfectly clean? If not, manually clean the with a piece of single strand steel wire.

The point setting is critical, see the following:

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

The carburetor setting is also somewhat critical as follows:

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Joe, I do follow what you are

"Joe, I do follow what you are saying and it makes sense, but ...
what doesn't make sense to me is that the engine works fine when not in gear. I can rev it up in neutral using manual warm up lever and it responds nicely. Also, it works flawlessly when in gear but without a prop in the water tank at WOT.
The only time it dies (after a couple of seconds or so) is when there's a prop attached and put in gear in the water, so to speak some resistance is applied(?)"
 
more resistance needs more pow

more resistance needs more power. more power = more fuel needed by the motor. check the carbs like Joe mentioned.
 
"I checked #1 (top) an

"I checked #1 (top) and #2 (middle) HS jets they are 100% clean. Couldn't get an easy access to #3 (bottom carb) since I didn't want to remove it from the motor this time. Even if assumed that #3 is dirty the motor should still work on upper two cylinders! But I will RE-CHECK them again tonight.

But what concerns me now is somewhat different...
Yesterday I decided to get nuts and bolts with this thing for real.
Removed Flywheel again. Found couple of things that puzzle me somewhat. (see drawing below)
1. part #54 is missing;
2. there is a mark on the advance timing base, also there is another mark on the stator. In my motor's case they cannot be aligned in any possible way. The rubber tipped bolt is protruded so much that it would not allow the moving base advance any further in order to get those two marks aligned. AM I MISSING SOMETHING IN THIS STORY? ARE THESE MARKS SUPPOSED TO BE ALIGNED?

I also rechecked the compression: #1 - 125, #2 - 120, #3 - 125.

287197.jpg
ref.1
 
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