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Johnson 2hp 1980

ghost

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" Motor has started giving me

" Motor has started giving me some problems, not reaching full rpm, stalling etc.
I first changed the plug, then I pulled the jets and blew gumout in the holes. All appears clear.
I readjusted jets and motor is no better.
Some questions 1- what is correct plug J6 or J8?, 2- are there points under the fly wheel? 3-is there a filter in the tank that might be plugged 4- correct compression?
Any other suggestions or things to look at? "
 
"Remove the carburetor and cle

"Remove the carburetor and clean properly. Use a Champion J6C plug gapped at .030 . There are points under the flywheel, set at .020 on the high portion of the lobe/cam. If memory serves me correctly, there is also a filter in the fuel tank. Compression should be somewhere over 70 psi.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)"
 
" Worked on motor, but no succ

" Worked on motor, but no success. Got a rebuild kit which is no more then packings amd gaskets and throughly cleaned the carb including the removal of a all parts. Carb looks spotless inside and out. Also inspected points and verified compression at 88 psi. Removed and cleaned the tank and fuel filter.
Engine runs and dies like it is running out of fuel.
The only thing I did not do was remove the metal plug on the side of the carb, which I assumed is a machining port maybe I should go back and drill that out.
Any other ideas? "
 
You've about covered all

You've about covered all of the bases there if nothing was overlooked in the carburetor and the fuel filter is clear. I ass ume you've adjusted the carburetor properly. The only other thing I can think of is that possibly it's overheating but that should affect all rpm ranges.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)
 
" Joe, Thanks
I am going to g


" Joe, Thanks
I am going to go over the carb one more time as I still think it is there. Motor pumps water and problem even exist when cold. I have to open the throttle beyond the start position to get it to start which I think tells me it is in the idle gas flow that a blockage exist. What is behind that metal plug that I did not remove and is it worth it to drill it out?
Again thanks for your help. "
 
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