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Is this 9.9 salvageable?

N

NRWAB

New member
I know that's a vague question considering that one man's trash is another's treasure, but I'm trying to decide how far down the rabbit hole I want to go. It's an '88 E10RCCD that I acquired on a project boat. When I first fired it up there was no tail tell so I replaced the impeller. Solved that issue. Mounted it on a drift boat and took it for a spin. It started easily, idled find and ran smoothly and smoke free but just wouldn't rev up as I thought it should. Compression check answered that question. I hoped for stuck rings so saturated the cylinders with penetrating and fogging oil for days.
Fired it up and it just screams. Dosed it with fuel system cleaner and screwed that up. It starts fine but only idles on half choke. I likely kicked something lose and plugged a jet, so a carb rebuild will be in order.
Main issue now is that the exhaust seems to be exiting through the small holes above the cavitation plate and not the prop (circled in blue). Additionally the area where the lower unit attaches blackens with oil after running hard in the tank (circled in green). I did replace the two seals on the drive shaft, but am wondering if there's more that I missed. Also I have water ejecting from the small port just below the motor (circled in red).
I've scoured the internet trying to find what would be normal but find nothing very definitive.
Another issue I find interesting is that the motor never seems to warm up. Even after running for an extended period you can touch the cylinder heads comfortably. I pulled the thermostat and it came out surprisingly clean and water flows freely when I BRIEFLY started the motor with the thermostat cover removed.
Would like to hear any thoughts, opinions or advice you guys might have to offer. Thanks in advance.IMG_3381.jpg
 
exhaust out those holes is normal. That black line looks like the water level in the barrel you used, might be wrong. If it is idling in a barrel you will not see exhaust out the prop. It will come out those little holes and higher up on the exhaust housing. if that is the water level line your water needs to be about 8" higher.
 
I would fix it.------But I would tear it down for a complete evaluation.----Simply because i know how and have boxes full of parts for these wonderful motors.
 
Thanks for the responses. I'll need to set up for another compression test. My understanding of the older two strokes was that low compression resulted in hard starting and almost immediate plug fowling. Right now it starts easily and the plugs came out clean.
Is there any way to confirm that I'm not suffering a lower unit oil leak or exhaust blockage? And racer, I'm guessing you're voting for me to rebuild the carb, right? ;)
 
People usually pick on the carburetor first.----Many are " rebuilt " but there is not much that can go wrong with them,
 
You don't have an exhaust blockage. The exhause system is the entire leg of the motor and down to the prop. You do have a carb problem, if it only runs with half choke on. I'd change the oil in the lower unit and then check it occasionally after having it out on the water. 2 stroke motors have oil in the fuel and it usually comes out in the exhaust and settles on top of the water when ou run it in a barrel. These guys know what they are talking about. They've seen it all. That motor just needs gas and oil and somebody to take it out and get it wet regularly. They're practically bulletproof! Many of them have been brought back from the dead over and over again! That's a keeper!
 
OK, now the real dumb questions come! Why won't the exhaust exit the prop in a barrel? Something to do with pressure in a confined space? And I got to wondering about the mixture dial adjacent to the choke. I noticed that I could turn it to either limit (CW or CCW) pull it off, rotate it (the knob) put it back on and turn it more. Is there a general starting point? Sort of like the mixture screw on a 4 stroke where you'd start at 1 1/2 turns out from bottomed.
Oh, and if it matters, My motor is marked 100:1, but I'm aware that Evinrude went back to 50:1. I'm running a premium synthetic oil at 75:1
 
The mix screw should be 1.5 turns out. You don't get exhaust out the prop because you can't idle it high enough to build enough pressure to push the water out. Plus your water level is to low. If you ran it on muffs you would see exhaust out the prop.
 
Run that motor at 50:1----And in a barrel the exhaust comes out the idle relief !----Nature works that way.-----Air / water / wind always go for the easiest way to be balanced.----No need for a motor to do work to push exhaust down into the water at idle.
 
May have found the (or at least a) problem.
Removed the carb, removed the bowl and found this black tube laying on the bottom. Never seen this setup before but assume it's there for a reason. Ordered a kit.
 

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Just an update should it be a value to anyone. Got a carb kit and put it in. With respect to the "tube" I found laying in the bowl, there was a flag on the order that talked about the enclosed tube not fitting, in which case order an alternative. Well, I got the tube on, but I think it's the wrong one. Anyway, going through the carb I found the line that this tube hooked to was packed solid with what I believe was rubber.
So, the result was that it eventually fired off, idled smoothly and accelerated great. I ran it hard in the barrel then let it idle down. It died and won't start. I think I'll order the correct tube, but need to decide if it's worth putting much more time or money into it.
Yes, I know a smarter guy than me would already have it running. Like I said, just sharing an experience should it help anyone down the line.
 

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Well, that's that for the winter. Finally got to do a WOT (though cold motor) compression test. 50 pounds both cylinders. She's tucked away under the bench while I decide if it's worth a winter project or otherwise.
Thanks to those for their help.
 
I know huh? And yet here it is running up river on an 18' drift boat. It started easily and ran smoothly, just wouldn't rev up. Just a bit bizarre.
And if it ran that good at 50, can you imagine what it might do at 120? 🤔

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I did consider that, but I've used this one recently and it seems to read as expected: did my Harley and got 148 & 149, then a Ford V8 that was clearly trashed and got from 0-180 depending on which valves were vent. Still doesn't rule that out.
For for the sake of idle conversation, does anyone else find it interesting that two cylinders, theoretically worn, read the same? I would have expected to see some variation. So that got me to wondering: is there anything else that could cause common readings between cylinders? Like a blow head gasket or cracked head or block?
Really doesn't matter as my plan is to tear it down this winter or just unload it for parts.
Be interested to hear opinions.
 
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