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Intruder 150 issues

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Aw5716

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Model no- E150GLEOM. 1995. Motor is on javelin 379 t. I can’t get on plane well. It bogs down. Once it gets up I trim up and can get more rpms but can never get over 4000rpm and 44 mph. Good compression. New cdi power pack, coils, plugs that are recommended for cdi power pack gapped at .030, cdi
recommended plug wires, optical sensor test shows it’s good, stator tested good on dva meter, new clear cam roller, Jerry’s easy timer to set timing, jackplate to bring engine to 3.5 inches below pad, 24p raker, timing roller in proper place, high speed orifices properly seated in all carbs, replaces cracked manifold, manifold gasket, and all related o rings including spaghetti one. Problem was the same before all this work and still the same after all this work. I pushed the key in to choke it while on plane today and it bogged down which is supposed to signify an electrical problem. What should I check now?? So lost and frustrated
 
I just got it. It’s been sitting for a year and a half. My compression numbers were 95-105. Good spark on each cylinder. I talked to previous owner who traded it in to dealer and he had same problems. Carb bowls do not appear to be warped. Would warped bowls do this? I can take them apart and check on a flat surface.
 
Will dealer not help you ?-----Throwing parts at it gets expensive.----Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on each lead using a proper test device ?----Checked for water in fuel ?-----Running with VRO in service ?----VRO oil output tested ?
 
Dealer won’t help. Yes jumped 7/16 gap with spark test tool. VRO still in service. Haven’t had oil out put tested. That would give me this problem?
 
Not sure if those boats had foam---Have boat weighed ?------Find a shop with a dynamometer.----Test actual power output from motor.-----Then you will know whether to look into boat issues or motor issues.
 
Update. Still lost. Found shift interrupter switch half out of its bracket. Tests good. Put it on muffs. In neutral or in gear when I depress plunger engine dies. No idea where to turn with this info. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Update-Tried a 20p raker prop and got it 4500rpm, 40mph. Seemed to do a lot better. Surges to 5000rpm at times. Battery voltage readings maxed out on gauge at 18 volts.
 
Reducing the prop pitch will allow motor to rev higher.-----It is not a substitute for fixing what is wrong with motor.----Smooth surging is usually a fuel issue.----Instant changes are often ignition related.
 
racerone said:
Reducing the prop pitch will allow motor to rev higher.-----It is not a substitute for fixing what is wrong with motor.----Smooth surging is usually a fuel issue.----Instant changes are often ignition related.
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I learned that if I press the key in at wot and it bogs down that it’s an electrical issue. If it picks up, it’s a fuel issue. I’ve done that and it bogs down. Is that wrong info I learned?
 
racerone said:
Run with timing light one cylinder at a time .---See if there is a spark issue on one or more cylinders.
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It has a brand new power pack. I don’t have a load tester to test. I’ll get one. Pulled flywheel with harmonic balancer pulley and found bottom of magnets damaged and black shiny dry puddles that leaked out of stator. Insulation? Replace stator and magnets? Could new power pack be ruined because of stator and magnet issue?
 
Power pack tests good. New stator. New voltage regulator. Found a coil on engine that tested bad. Replaced it. No changes in performance after all of this. Weighed the boat today. With trailer and all 2840 pounds. So waterlogged foam is ruled out.
 
Aw5716 said:
Yes on throttle butterflies. I’m not familiar with calibration pockets. What and where are those? Looks to be the original vro pump on there
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Get a manual on your specific motor. Calibration pockets are in the throttle body. Is the stator moving smoothly? Wide open timing set correctly?
 
flyingscott said:
Get a manual on your specific motor. Calibration pockets are in the throttle body. Is the stator moving smoothly? Wide open timing set correctly?
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I have a manual on my specific motor. Stator is bolted down. It doesn’t move. I think wot timing is set correctly. I am going to check the timing with a timing light tomorrow. I bought Jerry’s easy timer and according to it, the timing is set correct.
 
Aw5716 said:
I have a manual on my specific motor. Stator is bolted down. It doesn’t move. I think wot timing is set correctly. I am going to check the timing with a timing light tomorrow. I bought Jerry’s easy timer and according to it, the timing is set correct.
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Sorry meant optical eye is it moving smoothly to the stop? Is the return spring on it in good condition? Is your Powerpack a CDI? If it is is it the standard or digital version? Timing lights tend to not work great on them. The timing light can throw off the timing.
 
flyingscott said:
Sorry meant optical eye is it moving smoothly to the stop? Is the return spring on it in good condition? Is your Powerpack a CDI? If it is is it the standard or digital version? Timing lights tend to not work great on them. The timing light can throw off the timing.
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yes spring seems to be in great shape and working correctly. I’ll check and make sure the spring/optical eye is moving all the way to the stop. I did the “sync and link” using Jerry’s easy timer. But I could have done something wrong. It has a brand new optical sensor and cdi power pack. Pretty sure it’s the latest digital version.
 
Aw5716 said:
yes spring seems to be in great shape and working correctly. I’ll check and make sure the spring/optical eye is moving all the way to the stop. I did the “sync and link” using Jerry’s easy timer. But I could have done something wrong. It has a brand new optical sensor and cdi power pack. Pretty sure it’s the latest digital version.
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Does it look like you have water intrusion in the #1 cylinder? Do a leak down test.
 
Take boat to lake with an assistant.-----Run with cover off front of carburetors.----Use a strong flashlight and shine into each carburetor bore.-----Observe / compare amount of fuel coming up each main nozzle.-----Simple trouble shooting and fact gathering MUST be done.----And new o-rings are cheap.-----Remove cylinder head where you see 95 PSI compression.----Inspect cylinder walls.
 
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