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i know i should have , but didn't , any advise/help is greatly appreciated

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ballew

Member
hello
i have been fighting with ignition problems since i discovered water in cylinder # 4, long story short found a restrictor plate burned in half
while replacing the plate i went threw and performed repairs as they came up ,rebuilt carbs , went threw fuel system , went threw ignition system, lower unit serviced and
for the last awhile, cant seem to get motor to fire on all 4 cylinders , so i went and bought a wiring harness , trigger coil , stator , power pack , coils , sparkplugs and wires

the issue before i bought the for mentioned parts was you could get it to fire on 3 cylinders sometimes four but not consistent and i bought the Johnson service Manuel for that year and model 1998, j115tslecm the timing was checked and the engine would run on 2 or three cylinders like crap ,
since i bought the new parts its still doing the same thing so i then thought about the flywheel had a spare ,no change in firing, so then i thought about
grounding and while testing with my meter for continuity or ground i had one lead on battery neg. and the other checked some ground points had continuity
the put the lead on the primary of ignition coil and had continuity is that normal or do i have a short coming from trigger coil
 
Those ignition parts are all very good quality.-----I can not believe anyone would change out all that stuff and hope it will run better !!
 
believe it!!!!!!!
do you think there is a short/ground from primary ignition coils all 4 and the neg battery terminal using the continuity feature on metor
 
my question is should the ignition coil primary lead show continuity between the battery neg post with neg cable connected to the motor ground connection point
all 4 ignition coils show 2 ohms between ground tab and primary lead and between 340 to 333 ohms between primary and secondary
the reason i replaced all the ignition parts i did is my help and i during trouble shooting, spliced connections between and wanted all connections to be factory
and you may have gathered this but, I'm not a boat repair tech, i try to be a DYI repair man on a lot of my home, vehicle, boat, etc.
any guidance would be greatly appreciated
 
hello i started troubleshooting again and had a quick question when testing Starter Circuit test, step one says check for battery voltage between ground and 1,
i removed black lead from ground at 1 and then connect voltmeter between 1 and common engine ground then turn the key to start position , voltmeter should show battery voltage
my question is
should i be getting 12 volts because I'm only getting 3 volts when key is turned to the on position and voltage reads -0.882 while in the off position the same readings for step 2 , 4 , the readings for step 3 is when on - 5.6 v and off 0.885 step 5 is when on 6.93 v and off 11.74 v
please let me know if this is normal or a possible cause on the erratic firing troubles I'm experiencing
 
ballew said:
hello
i have been fighting with ignition problems since i discovered water in cylinder # 4, long story short found a restrictor plate burned in half
while replacing the plate i went threw and performed repairs as they came up ,rebuilt carbs , went threw fuel system , went threw ignition system, lower unit serviced and
for the last awhile, cant seem to get motor to fire on all 4 cylinders , so i went and bought a wiring harness , trigger coil , stator , power pack , coils , sparkplugs and wires

the issue before i bought the for mentioned parts was you could get it to fire on 3 cylinders sometimes four but not consistent and i bought the Johnson service Manuel for that year and model 1998, j115tslecm the timing was checked and the engine would run on 2 or three cylinders like crap ,
since i bought the new parts its still doing the same thing so i then thought about the flywheel had a spare ,no change in firing, so then i thought about
grounding and while testing with my meter for continuity or ground i had one lead on battery neg. and the other checked some ground points had continuity
the put the lead on the primary of ignition coil and had continuity is that normal or do i have a short coming from trigger coil
Click to expand...

Each ignition coil will have 1) a wire back to the CDI, 2) a connector for the sparkplug lead and 3) a wire or other means of ground (like a metal plate that connects to coil and engine block).
 
ballew said:
hello i started troubleshooting again and had a quick question when testing Starter Circuit test, step one says check for battery voltage between ground and 1,
i removed black lead from ground at 1 and then connect voltmeter between 1 and common engine ground then turn the key to start position , voltmeter should show battery voltage
my question is
should i be getting 12 volts because I'm only getting 3 volts when key is turned to the on position and voltage reads -0.882 while in the off position the same readings for step 2 , 4 , the readings for step 3 is when on - 5.6 v and off 0.885 step 5 is when on 6.93 v and off 11.74 v
please let me know if this is normal or a possible cause on the erratic firing troubles I'm experiencing
Click to expand...

Huh, this is very hard to follow. I'd suggest you watch a few videos to get better acquainted with starting circuit. Also, very unlikely that this is related to your firing on 3 of 4 cyl. If your starter is doing what it's supposed to do, leave it alone.
 
hello i performed compression test all 4 plugs out, squirted a little 2 cycle oil in each cylinder and throttle in wide open position
number 1 cylinder 110
number 2 115
number 3 115
number 4 110




number 4 110
 
i had put one meter led to the ignition coil terminal (the one that you would connect wire to going back to cdi) and the other meter led to the ground going back to battery and it showed continuity between the 2 is that normal
 
Simple test to do.-----Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on all 4 leads , yes or no?-----Throttle does not need to be open for a compression test on that motor.----Perhaps test with another gauge.
 
Sounds like you need to revisit the ignition work.-----I would first look at pistons / rings on the cylinders with 110 PSI.----Remove bypass covers , just a cheap gasket to do that.
 
hello I've revisited the ignition i moved the one working ignition coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 1,,,, i have fire on cylinder 1 now and no fire 4
all ignition coils are new
performed ohmmeter test on the ignition coils from primary terminal (connects back to CDI) to ground 2 ohms and from primary to secondary (connects to spark plugs) are between 333.2 to 340.3 for all 4 coils
performed sensor coil ohmmeter test readings were from terminal E (white led) to red 45.4 ohms ,,,,, to blue 47.1 ohms ,,,,, to green 47.1 ohms and to purple 47.0 ohms
tested for ground condition on sensor coil from white, red , blue , green and purple leds to clean engine ground reading was OL high reading on all
all ohmmeter were in specified limits
i don't have a PL-88 to test peak readings from power pack
is there a work around to test these voltages
I connected timing light to power pack leds and all showed power (light flickering) please let me know of the test still needed to to with determining if ignition is ok
also is compression of 110 psi to low
 
i wanted to thank you racerone for the help, i revisited the ignition work and previous related threads to my problem erratic firing and voltages and ran across one and you had mentioned the stator and the bolts and bolt holes had to be free of debris and cleaned because if the stator wasn't grounded properly, it would cause voltage problems
i rethreaded holes cleaned with alcohol and q tips tell the holes were wissel clean, cleaned stator holes both sides of stator and bolts i reinstalled timer, stator and flywheel and the motor started, and all 4 cylinders were firing all thanks to all that contribute
 
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