I have a 1999 Maxum 2300SC 5.7 Alpaha One with a bad ECU

[Dieter]

how are you making these timing measurements??? in other words, how did you determine "...up to 3000 RPM it retards the timing to 20 deg ATDC"???

What you are describing doesn't make sense...especially when you state "...only used it with the dial set to 0."

I don't believe the initial timing process is worth the effort on a stand alone EST system...just set the timing to give you proper (max) timing advance at 3000 and live with the resulting initial timing as long as the engine starts easily when hot...

this is good advice set the total at what it should be for the engine and let the base/initial fall where it may. I suspect the 20 degrees is BTDC not after as i doubt it would run 20 degrees after. I think the Delco is set up to do about 26-28 degrees of advance so if you set it correctly with the shunt in at 10 deg BTDC then 20 BTDC at 3 k would makes sense with the shunt removed.

 

[Guy0425]

on the crankshaft pully I have the 0* through 30* markings and an indicator arrow. At 700 rpm it is right on the 10* Before TDC. This is reading to the right of the 0* marking. Then when I throttle up to 2000 rpm it moves back to the left to 6* Before TDC. Then when I raise it to 3000 rpm it moves to the left of the 0* mark to 10* After TDC. At 4000 rpms it reads around 25* After TDC. (25*) -------------0*------(10*) ----------25*

So, is it possible that I missed the mark by one tooth on the distributer ?
Would that be a symptom of being out 180* ? It feels like I have something backwards.

The first pic is for timing. The second is for normal running. This diagram shows a 4 cylinder, mine is a V-8.

 

[Guy0425]

Also, at this point I still have the old Ignition Control module and Knock Control module connected to the engine harness. I left them connected because there wasn't anything in the Delco EST instructions about completely removing them. Also, there are some important items that are a part of these modules: Audio warning system, water temp. warning system.

 

[Guy0425]

I watched a video by LST and found out that I can splice the yellow wire (water temp switch) to the Tan/Blue wire (Audio warning system wire) out of the old control module. So now I can fully remove the old ignition module.
Do I need to still leave the Knock Control Module installed?

 

[Dieter]

on the crankshaft pully I have the 0* through 30* markings and an indicator arrow. At 700 rpm it is right on the 10* Before TDC. This is reading to the right of the 0* marking. Then when I throttle up to 2000 rpm it moves back to the left to 6* Before TDC. Then when I raise it to 3000 rpm it moves to the left of the 0* mark to 10* After TDC. At 4000 rpms it reads around 25* After TDC. (25*) -------------0*------(10*) ----------25*

So, is it possible that I missed the mark by one tooth on the distributer ?
Would that be a symptom of being out 180* ? It feels like I have something backwards.

The first pic is for timing. The second is for normal running. This diagram shows a 4 cylinder, mine is a V-8.

Sounds like the module is messed up it should be advancing not retarding the module. 180 out you would get a back fire as the valves would be open.

I watched a video by LST and found out that I can splice the yellow wire (water temp switch) to the Tan/Blue wire (Audio warning system wire) out of the old control module. So now I can fully remove the old ignition module.
Do I need to still leave the Knock Control Module installed?

I would remove the old module and knock sensor see if that is having any affect on the advance. I am not sure if the audio warning goes through the ignition module- wiring diagram shows it is connected to switches in parallel . I think the warning just uses the oil pressure switch , temp switch, and gear lube level in parallel to supply the ground side of the buzzer. Maybe gets another ground from the ignition module if there is a not temp/ oil pressure/lube level fault?

Not sure what yellow wire is ?

 

[Okie918]

how are you making these timing measurements??? in other words, how did you determine "...up to 3000 RPM it retards the timing to 20 deg ATDC"???

What you are describing doesn't make sense...especially when you state "...only used it with the dial set to 0."

I don't believe the initial timing process is worth the effort on a stand alone EST system...just set the timing to give you proper (max) timing advance at 3000 and live with the resulting initial timing as long as the engine starts easily when hot...

Hello, jumping in with a question. (newbie on the forum) I too replaced the TB 5 ignition. Can you explain a bit more your comment to ".just set the timing to give you proper (max) timing advance at 3000".

 

[makomark]

so, to rephrase your question, how do i set the timing on a stand alone EST distributor?

look up your max timing value (the EST stand alone version will be at max by 3000 RPM on the v-8...) if you don't have an advance timing light, scribe your balancer...start engine and warm it up...once warm, raise RPM to 3000 and adjust distributor position to achieve the max timing value.
bring engine back to idle and check the timing ...it will likely be bouncing around...if the engine restarts after a hot soak, you should be fine.