Logo

i am at my wits end!

SeaD

New member
I have a Bayliner capri 1952 with an inboard 3.0 mercruiser and Alpha 1 out drive. I just this past week replaced the head gasket because it was leaking from directly under the head! so i removed the head, had it milled and checked, ordered new gaskets both exhaust and head, reinstalled the head as per manual. Took the boat out and after a few hours it blew the head gasket again! WTF!
icon8.png
it sound like a Howitzer! I am trying to understand how this happened to a new head gasket that was properly installed! And I am desperatley seeking the help of a knowledgeable person to answer this for me. I am new here so the post may exist somewhere else i just didnt find it. I appreciate any and all help in advance,
 
Define "properly installed" . Do you have the Merc manual. Timing should be 1 deg ATDC. did you put anything on the head,block, or gasket. Torqued to # in the correct pattern in 3 steps.
 
You need to run it and re torque the head. Big problem with those. I hope you didn't drive it far after the head gasket was blown. Another thing is replace all the head bolts
 
You need to run it and re torque the head. Big problem with those. I hope you didn't drive it far after the head gasket was blown. Another thing is replace all the head bolts


No, i was told i didnt need to "level" the block. Nor did I replace the bolts either. I was told they were not " stretch" bolts! And I define installed correctly as per torque specs and the sequence. 90-100 ft lbs in two stages. And i did drive it....pulled it straight to the river ran it for a couple hours and then BAM! the gasket blew. How do i have the block shaved without taking the engine out totally? or do i? As far as rerunning it after the install, i may should have done that for sure. At this point i am looking for a chunk of C-4! I suspect the cooling system is working as best i can tell. I have water circulation, and it is peeing as well....im not sure if the water pump is "slipping" as the belt seems a little loose too and cannot be adjusted as it is stretched to max capacity. According to the temp gauge it never reached higher than 175 degrees. So, i should have the head reworked again? as well as the block, replace the head bolts and head gasket (again) and possibly the water pump and belt and that should cover it all right? Thanks for all your help everyone I appreciate it alot.
 
Humans pee, outdrives dont. Wher is the water leaking from? temp should be like 140-150 tops.

Well, its a term used quite commonly in these parts. The water is coming out of the ports below the drive, the ones that were designed to expel water from the engine. The temp gauge maybe be defunct as well im not sure as i havent had the boat very long. I am just trying to get the bugs worked out and decide should i keep it or sell it. thanks for your reply.
 
The water is coming out of the ports below the drive, the ones that were designed to expel water from the engine.
That is a low speed exhaust relief port.
The main sea water flow should be exiting through the propeller hub at the higher RPM range. If not, then your sea water pump supply may be weak.... or you have rust scale that is restricting and preventing good flow.

I'd start at the sea water pump, and work your way forward. Examine every part that's in the path of the sea water completely to the exhaust elbow where the mixing chamber is.


I'd pull the engine and have a bonified auto machinist look at it.
If the block must be decked, that's what you'll need to have done.


.
 
That is a low speed exhaust relief port.
The main sea water flow should be exiting through the propeller hub at the higher RPM range. If not, then your sea water pump supply may be weak.... or you have rust scale that is restricting and preventing good flow.

I'd start at the sea water pump, and work your way forward. Examine every part that's in the path of the sea water completely to the exhaust elbow where the mixing chamber is.


I'd pull the engine and have a bonified auto machinist look at it.
If the block must be decked, that's what you'll need to have done.


.

I am inclined to think you are right. pulling the engine is a simple task in itself. I will take your advice and begin tomorrow. i simply have to get this right, i will keep you all posted , thanks a million for your help. i really appreciate it.
 
check the thermostat it should be a 140 F. Take your time it will get done in time to enjoy. with the engine out verify the engine coupler splines are not rounded off. they should look square cut on the ends. if it is questionable then consider changing it while the engine is out.
 
check the thermostat it should be a 140 F. Take your time it will get done in time to enjoy. with the engine out verify the engine coupler splines are not rounded off. they should look square cut on the ends. if it is questionable then consider changing it while the engine is out.


good deal i will look at that. i appreciate your input. I will keep you all posted on what transpires, thanks again,
 
Back
Top