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How to tell the difference between a 16A and 40A stator

Keithm18

Keithm18

Regular Contributor
Hi Guys.

I have a 91 200Hp Mariner. I am looking to replace the stator and am not entirely sure if it's a 40A or 16 Amp Stator.

I can tell you it only has two yellow wires and not 4....

Is there a quick way to tell which one I have.

Thanks,

Keith
 
That is the 40 amp water cooled unit..Please set down or hold on to something...….the stator is #398-9610A5 and averages $500. The rectifier/regulator is #18736a21 and averages $550. CDI makes one($500) and a kit to covert to dual rectifiers like the newer engine but you have to buy a stator..($850 to convert)
 
Hi Faztbullet. Thanks for the reply. My Word those are some pricy parts....... my exchange rate is 14 to 1 USD....

The reason I was looking at the stator is because I think my Rectifier/regulator is going bad.... but I think before I spend any money I am going to open my manual and do some serious troubleshooting and fault finding...

What I am experiencing is an intermittent miss. It happens sometimes on the low end, but mostly at WOT. It comes and goes and sometimes you can't hear it but you can feel the motor is losing power. In addition while trawling or cruising at low speed my tach is jumping around. Over a few minutes it will rise on it's own and then bounce around and then fall and then rise again slowly, but the motor speed is not changing at all. (The miss may be trigger or switchbox I suppose.)

It's a carb motor and I have done a range of fuel related troubleshooting already including rebuilding the carbs and fuel pump, checking the fuel bulb when it happens, pumping it while running when it happens (No change) and pressing the fuel enricher (Which causes it to run worse) so I am confident it's an electrical issue.

I also have an endoscope and have checked each piston top, which are all black with silverish areas by the inlet and exhaust ports (Very consistent between each cylinder) I was hoping to see a difference in one which may indicate where the problem was. There is no excessive carbon coating on them either.

I plan to test the switch boxes, triggers, coils, stator and rectifier using the CDI and manual recommended DVA and OHM tests and then also put a timing light on while running at WOT to see if I am dropping a cylinder and checking that spark will jump the recommended distance. I will also replace the plugs as I have previously had one fail intermittently (out of the box failure) and another one where I cracked it accidentally and it was earthing (Have no idea how I did that)

I will also make sure the battery is fully charged before going out as I have seen how a bad battery impacts these ignition systems.

I will start a separate thread and link it to this one when I have some results in the next week or so.

If there's any other tests recommended please feel free to let me know.

Thanks again.
 
I was also thinking that may be the cause I removed it on Saturday but didn't get chance to run it.
It's the module with the Black and White and Red and white wires, so I gather it only advances the timing to keep it running in case of low RPM at Idle and doesn't retard spark on the top end, so I can run it without adjusting the WOT/Cranking timing?

It looks exactly like this one. 112089586790_1.jpg
 
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