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How to swap from a 93 mercruiser 3.0 to a 84 Mercruiser 140, thanks

buckz6319

buckz6319

Regular Contributor
I am back again, with a different topic

I have purchased a 1984 sea ray with a Mercruiser 140, complete boat, engine is running and everything works


The engine is original, even the manifold, and riser. The po said it started to run hot a few times, but when he shut her down, and started her back up, she ran fine.
I did some test before i purchased the boat. The compression was 148-150 on all 4 cylinders. The spark plugs looked like she is running normal.


The out drive worked, and water flow appeared to be good. I unsrewed the drive drain plug, and black thick oil came slowly out, but no water.


I think she has a bad gimbal bearing, or coupler, or both. The entire stern vibrates when engine is running, seems worse at idle, than at higher rpms.If i put pressure with my foot on the engine( like I was trying to push it over) while she is running, the vibration is much worse.


We had her running for 45 minutes and the temperature gauge did not get above 140ish, and the gauge may not be accurate.


The po has owned this boat for 20 years, and gave me as much info as he could on the engine, and boat.


So now after making a decision to purchase her, I need help in doing a swap, after I am ensured that the heating issue will be resolved.


What will swap over, what will not swap over, should i do a total engine to drive swap


I would appreciate your help...
Thanks!
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Well there both 140's

just swap the flywheel housings and coupler the flywheel housing is the onlything needed to bolt up to the transom mount
I cant answer if the flywheel housings will exchange, you may have to determine that.

So the short answer is swap out as much as needed from your current '93 motor to the older one. If all bolt up your good to go!!

. Also if your ignition was electronic, swap that out also.....You should use your newer wiring harness....most of the connections should be the same but I think you have the manual so hooking it up should be easy.

Noticed the wierd looking fuel pump.....if it is not marine get rid of it!!, maybe swap your old one if it fits........
 
kghost said:
Well there both 140's

just swap the flywheel housings and coupler the flywheel housing is the onlything needed to bolt up to the transom mount
I cant answer if the flywheel housings will exchange, you may have to determine that.

So the short answer is swap out as much as needed from your current '93 motor to the older one. If all bolt up your good to go!!

. Also if your ignition was electronic, swap that out also.....You should use your newer wiring harness....most of the connections should be the same but I think you have the manual so hooking it up should be easy.

Noticed the wierd looking fuel pump.....if it is not marine get rid of it!!, maybe swap your old one if it fits........
Click to expand...
Thanks Kghost
I will start the transplant soon, have to finish up a couple of mechanic side jobs first, but I will work on this project, between breaks :)
 
the 1993 flywheel cover will bolt right onto the back of that 1984 engine. Leave the 1984 flywheel and coupler on the 1984 engine.
 
hystat said:
the 1993 flywheel cover will bolt right onto the back of that 1984 engine. Leave the 1984 flywheel and coupler on the 1984 engine.
Click to expand...

Yes that is what I said I think, I did not mention removing the flywheel as he should not!!

He questioned the coupler as possibly having an issue, so if the coupler on the '93 is newer or better I suggested to swap that also......
 
I wasn't disagreeing - was trying to clarify. I was a bit lost.

93 coupler won't necessarily fit. It might, if the 1984 flywheel has the threaded holes for a triangular type and the 93 coupler is triangular.
Otherwise, if he needs a new crank-stud fitted coupler it will have to be pre-1990.
 
Yes, coupler Maybe an issue with the 84 140
The 93 coupler is triangular, not sure about the 84 coupler.
I do know that before I remove that 140. I want to ensure it has no mechanical, or electrical issues

Now for the out drive...I know it will go in gear, but not sure about any other mechanical issues with it, and not sure if i can use it with the 93 because of the gimbal bracket

Well, im gonna have fun with this one

Thanks for thr input. I appreciate it
 
hystat said:
you cannot use the 1984 outdrive on the 1993 boat - different animal
Click to expand...
Yes, I am aware of that being an issue

Maybe I am over thinking, but just thinking ahead...

if the 93 out drive has any issues, then i may have an option of using the the entire 140 components from foot to front engine mount
Thanks for the input.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, at that point you might as well just call the SeaRay your new boat.
You'd be doing 30 hours of labour and disturbing your transom to risk rot to use some old questionable outdrive instead of buying a brand new Gen II drive with a 3 year no fault warranty for $1400
 
hystat said:
Yeah, at that point you might as well just call the SeaRay your new boat.
You'd be doing 30 hours of labour and disturbing your transom to risk rot to use some old questionable outdrive instead of buying a brand new Gen II drive with a 3 year no fault warranty for $1400
Click to expand...
Yes, i agree, however I better keep trying to get the Chaparral in the water, my wife likes that one better:)
Thanks again.
 
I thought I would run the engine Vin Number through the Mercruiser parts catalog

The vin number A484861 came back as a 1986 140 MODEL NO.01402006

not sure at this point it makes any difference? but the engine is 2 years newer than I thought :)
 
I am going to start her up soon, when I get the dual flow muffs, or should I remove the drive, and start her like I did my 93 3.0 when I had it on the ground for testing.


I ran a garden hose directly to the intake hose, and ran it that way. if I do it this way i can eliminate the impeller as a possible cause of the over heat issue.


What are y'all s opinions on this?


thanks!
 
The trim pump and rams on this boat works great!

I know it is not the same type I have on my 93, but my 93 pump and rams, have the wendy's frosty oil in them. I don't really know how long it has been that way before I purchased it, but it was working when I brought it home, and I haven't done anything with it yet.

is it possible to swap the trim pumps out or should I just sell the trim pump?

just remember I am doing this swap, and learning as I go, as to what will or will not work

thanks
 
WOW! the power trim pump R/MR ALPHA ONE STERNDRIVE 0A450859 HYDRAULIC PUMP OILDYNE PUMP - METAL RESERVOIR

795.00 average price for replacement new..
 
I'm doing this for my neighbor, who wants to listen to the engine before he goes on vac.
I'm going to start her up this evening, and video her running, just maybe the noise from the rear of the engine can be heard
 
Well, not going to get her started tonight

I can't get the hydraulic trim pump to work, however it was working, but the po hooked it up, and I didn't see how he see how he did this. I have sent him a text about the wiring.

Looks like there is just a positive and Ground from pump going to the battery. I hook the wires up, and get nothing at the trim switch, maybe the switch is bad, and he just jumped the pump selnoids from the battery.

i need to go search for a wiring diagram
 
On the pump bracket ther is a three wire round rubber connecter. This has trim down (green) and trim up (blue) and a purple/blue which is trailer.

There are or should be two solenoids. One is up (large blue wire) and the other is down (large green wire).

Each solenoid has two small wires which activate the soelnoid coil. One small wire is black on each (ground)

The other small wire on each is connected to the blue/green/purpleblue from the round connector.

If you jump from the large red (+12 volts) terminal to the small colored wire terminal it will energize the solenoid.

There also should be a fusable link with a 20 amp fuse in it..
 
kghost said:
On the pump bracket ther is a three wire round rubber connecter. This has trim down (green) and trim up (blue) and a purple/blue which is trailer.

There are or should be two solenoids. One is up (large blue wire) and the other is down (large green wire).

Each solenoid has two small wires which activate the soelnoid coil. One small wire is black on each (ground)

The other small wire on each is connected to the blue/green/purpleblue from the round connector.

If you jump from the large red (+12 volts) terminal to the small colored wire terminal it will energize the solenoid.

There also should be a fusable link with a 20 amp fuse in it..
Click to expand...
thanks for the info, I appreciate it
I did some searching last night and downloaded some information on this particular trim pump, and basically it is the same procedure that you are describing:)

thanks again, maybe I can lower the drive tonight
 
I also discovered that the conventional ignition was switched to the electronic ignition, so I'm not sure if i will use my 93 electronic ignition components from the 93, coil, dizzy ect

I think I will have to use the wiring harness from the 93 but haven;t got to that point yet
 
thanks kghost for the information on how to get the power trim to operate.

I got the engine running, and will upload the video of it tomorrow, because something caught my eye while she was running
This...
sorry, my audio was not working for some reason. I will fix that tomorrow
 
When motors are new there is a gasket that fits under the distributor flange.
It may be the same as a v6 or v8..... It is a simple dognut gasket...
The forces on the distributor gear wants to force the shaft up so if the gasket is missing and the clamp is not tight
Oil can leak out.
 
kghost said:
When motors are new there is a gasket that fits under the distributor flange.
It may be the same as a v6 or v8..... It is a simple dognut gasket...
The forces on the distributor gear wants to force the shaft up so if the gasket is missing and the clamp is not tight
Oil can leak out.
Click to expand...
thanks Kghost,
I have the out drive and pump I need to do something with. I am getting ready to remove them, maybe ebay
here are some pics
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I thought I would update this thread
I go the 140 removed yesterday from the Searay. It was hot and humid here..
now on to removing and replacing parts. I will be removing the exhaust manifold and riser. I think the riser is leaking. I was told by the po that they were original? not sure but looks that way lol
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