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Honda bf225a wont start after new main relay instale.

D

Davebf225

New member
I fried relay Saturday, it was pretty clear what happened. Removed cover and all three pigtails and selenoid wires where melted together. Replaced main relay yesterday and now engine cranks but won't run. Do not here fuel pump running and have tried to ck voltage at fuel pump wire connector. I have continuity at fuel pump. Is there supposed to be 12v at fuel pump connector even if it is just for the first 3 to 5 seconds. I'm assuming the short for the main relay may have caused the new issue. I have triple checked all the connections at main relay area. Any thoughts. Thanks Dave
 
There are also 3 codes.
#13 Baro sensor (there prior to problem)
#21 vtec selenoid disconnected, short or open circuit, or faulty selenoid. (new since main relay failure)
#23 knock sensor (there prior to problem)
 
Well, no expert here but that new v-tec code says to me that you might have additional wiring issues.

Have you THOROUGHLY TESTED all fuses yet?

A fuse can LOOK ok but still be bad. Only by load testing them will you know for SURE that none are damaged.

The same goes for wiring. A multi-strand wire will ohm out good if even only ONE strand of wire is intact and all others are broken/burned through underneath the insulation.

Rigging up a load, such as an old sealed beam headlamp, and powering that through the suspect fuse or wiring can help you with diagnosis.

Lots of youtube stuff on " load testing automotive wiring" to help.

Hope you find the problem.
 
jgmo said:
Well, no expert here but that new v-tec code says to me that you might have additional wiring issues.

Have you THOROUGHLY TESTED all fuses yet?

A fuse can LOOK ok but still be bad. Only by load testing them will you know for SURE that none are damaged.

The same goes for wiring. A multi-strand wire will ohm out good if even only ONE strand of wire is intact and all others are broken/burned through underneath the insulation.

Rigging up a load, such as an old sealed beam headlamp, and powering that through the suspect fuse or wiring can help you with diagnosis.

Lots of youtube stuff on " load testing automotive wiring" to help.

Hope you find the problem.
Click to expand...
I flip flopped all 10 amp fuses in fuse box. I switch 1 with 5 and 2 with 3 so that I knew where they were originally if I had to put them back in original configuration. I also think it is in wiring, just looking for best possible common area to look after a main relay melt down.
 
There should be 12v for 3-5 secs at fuel pump plug, if pump has power but not running , it could be your problem . Have you checked for spark?
 
I think I have narrowed it down to the new main relay being faulty. No power to fuel pump plug. Wire from plug to relay is good. Can wire fuel pump to 12v and it runs fine, and can get engine to run while fuel pump is direct wired from 12v.
I do not have continuity at the 2 prong plug on the main relay which is the fuel pump connector. My only concern is. Am I supposed to have continuity at the plug when it is unplugged from the fuel pump wire. Boats.net has been closed since I figured this out. I am calling this morning to get a new relay sent to me and will repost outcome when it arrives
 
I have a Honda shop manual and have done the main relay check and had continuity and voltage at every connection in the test diagram. ( 4 pages of tests). Yes it appears one of them was a test from the #3 terminal of the 4p connector to the #19 terminal on the 26p connector and I did have continuity.
 
So you need back probe that same wire (light green/red) and ground it to test the relay, if pump works by grounding this wire then ecm or a bad ground is the problem, if not then relay is faulty
 
Ok relay is already on its way back to supplier, and I should have a new one tomorrow or Thursday. If I have the same problem with new relay I think you are on the track that I am looking for. Makes alot of sense and will be the first thing I try if new relay doesn't work. I will let you know in next couple of days what happens.
 
ok I installed new relay this afternoon and have same problem. I did as you described, and pump runs when grounded at the light green wire. I checked and have continuity from light green wire at 6p connector to the plug at ecm. Does this eliminate the possibility for bad ground? If so sounds like ECM. Is there a way to test Ecm?
 
Only by replacing with a known good one.What fuel pump do you have. I've had 60hp motors that will not run non genuine pumps, never with a v6 tho?
 
Looks like you have a failed fuel pump driver in the ecm due to a voltage spike from the relay failure. ECM actually grounds the circuit to activate relay so probably had 12v through it from the electrical short experienced. You could rig up a separate power supply if it's an old motor and you don't want to go the the expence of buying an ecm.
 
I can get a used one on ebay for 2 to 3 hundred. Think I will go this route. If I rig something up I will probably end up offshore stranded with some new problem. Will let u know when I get it replaced.
 
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