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Honda bf130 getting to much gas

It could be many things. You did not mention, how you know it is flooding out.

First of all, are you advancing the throttle when you try to start it? If so, you should not. Leave it in neutral and try starting.

If you are not advancing the throttle, try advancing it, in case the Idle Air Control is stuck closed or is malfunctioning.

Generally, many of the 115/130's do not like to start on the first try. It usually takes the second try to actually start......why.....I do not know.....just what I have seen in many of these guys.

You will need to measure the high pressure fuel pressure to see if the fuel pressure regulator is malfunctioning.

You did not say if this motor is new to you or if it has been running ok up to this time.

Cylinders can also flood from no spark. So you should check all the basics.....

1. Check compression
2. Check spark
3. Check spark plugs - replace if not new with NGK plugs only
4. Check and watch fuel pressure.
5. Make sure that you have fresh fuel. If not, flush fuel system with fresh fuel and try starting again.

Besides the standard compression and spark, these motors need good spark plugs and good fresh fuel.

Mike
 
The boat was running fine when parked, I go out atleast every 7 to 10 days and start and let run. I have been running this engine for 2 years now.
When it does not start I went back and pulled the plugs and they are completely soaked.

If I advance the throttle from the very beginning it will start and run fine, as soon as I shut it off and try to start right back up it will flood out instantly.
I pulled the plugs and all plugs seem to have great spark.
 
It sounds to me like the Idle Air Control is not working. At startup, it allows additional air into the intake and slowly decreases it to bring the engine from the fast idle down to an slow idle as the engine warms up.

It could be the IAC itself, connections, wiring, or ECU.

You can remove the IAC and clean the screen on it. It may just be carboned up, blocking any additional air from going into the intake. Spraying it with brakleen or similar solvent should clean it up. Part # 26 https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...l-range/130hp/bf130a3-la-2003/intake-manifold

You can also, take a couple of small jumper wires and apply 12 v intermittently to the contacts in the connector and the little plunger, inside, should move back and forth. If it does not move, then you definitely have a bad IAC.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 
hondadude said:
It sounds to me like the Idle Air Control is not working. At startup, it allows additional air into the intake and slowly decreases it to bring the engine from the fast idle down to an slow idle as the engine warms up.

It could be the IAC itself, connections, wiring, or ECU.

You can remove the IAC and clean the screen on it. It may just be carboned up, blocking any additional air from going into the intake. Spraying it with brakleen or similar solvent should clean it up. Part # 26 https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...l-range/130hp/bf130a3-la-2003/intake-manifold

You can also, take a couple of small jumper wires and apply 12 v intermittently to the contacts in the connector and the little plunger, inside, should move back and forth. If it does not move, then you definitely have a bad IAC.

Hope this helps.

Mike
Click to expand...
 
So I got home and took off the IAC it was clean. I also did the 12v jumper and it worked perfect.

Tonight when I fired it up with just turning the key all at once not waiting for the fuel pump. It fired right up so I shut it off and then waited the two seconds and yet again it flooded, no start.
 
If they are equally soaked in that short length of time. I would think something a fault in the ecm, short to ground in the wiring harness or a bad ground is keeping the injectors open after shutdown allowing the fuel in the rail to bleed off into cylinders. Then when you try to re-crank the engine the extra fuel is causing a flooding situation. I'm not sure, but I think the ECM supplies voltage to the injectors and then grounds the signal causing the injectors to spray fuel. I would try this, run the engine until it comes up to operating temp, kill the engine and let engine rest for a minute or so, check the plugs ad see if they are wet. If so you know that you have a flooding problem. Redo the previous steps but this time while running unplug all the injectors and let it die and set for a minute again and try cranking again with the injectors unplugged and see if I tried to fire off. If so, I would check for bad grounds or wiring on the injector harness. Hope this helps.
 
1-Ok first I swapped out out ecm with the other engine
A. It made no change with the trouble engine
b. The second engine with the trouble engine ecm (fired right up)

2- I swapped all the plugs from one engine to another ( no change)

3- once I aired out the engine, I started the way it will start. Full throttle and turn key all at once don't wait for fuel pump.
A. I let it get to temp. Shut it off and the plugs were dry.
B. Second I started the engine unplugged all the injectors until it died. Then tried starting the engine and nothing. I pulled the plugs back out and they were dry.

So I guess I can eliminate the injectors leaking and ecm problems?
 
Either your pulsar coils(ignitors) under the harmonic balancer or the coil packs are breaking down and won't fire correctly after getting not.
 
Last edited:
BF130 has no pulser coils,has a relucter wheel and crank angle sensor. The map sensor can cause flooding at start up if it has failed, try that.
 
iang6766 said:
BF130 has no pulser coils,has a relucter wheel and crank angle sensor. The map sensor can cause flooding at start up if it has failed, try that.
Click to expand...

I just want to correct myself here, it does have pulser coils as mentioned in the manual, however the pulser coils detect TDC and engine speed as does the modern crank angle sensor and will usually trigger the alarm if one fails, the engine will continue to run normally though. You have an interesting issue here and I feel you may need a breakout box in order to try and diagnose what sensor is playing up by reading the voltage outputs and comparing with guide lines in the workshop manual. Unfortunately these motors are old school and can be difficult to diagnose. I would probably try swapping out the MAP sensor followed by the the complete throttle body, the throttle position sensor may be the issue too.
 
I pulled the black cover off and found the red plug stuck a paper clip in it and turned the key on and the only thing I got was the two second light on both motors.

Did I do it right?
i also swapped the map sensor and its still acting up.
 
Congratulations on your perseverance!

How did you find that?

Were there no alarms?

Which one was it?

It must have been way out of spec.

That probably would have been the last place that you would have looked.

I guess in this case, it was...."the last place you looked". LOL

Mike
 
1-Just was changing everything I could change being I have twins.
2-I would get a warning buzzer every so often but could not get any codes to come off it.
3-part#35673-ZW5-003 SENSOR, WATER TEMP
4- once I got it out it actually broke in to two pieces and was corrode in the middle.
5- I think I changed almost everything that had to do with fuel and spark related.
its still hard for me to believe that a water sensor has that much to do with fuel and timing. What got really frustrating was when the dealer could not find the problem after 3 weeks. Lol
 
Glad you got it worked out. Crazy!!

Mike, or anyone. Can you explain how a failed ECT would cause that amount of flooding in the cylinders? Doesn't make sense to me.
 
With a temp sensor, it sounds like what used to be called a choke was stuck on, the ECT was thinking the motor was cold and needed extra fuel. It was just dumping way more than would normally be called for in a warm up state?
 
NSDON - From Worldcat's posts, it sounds like he was starting out with a cold engine, so the extra fuel would be appropriate for start up. Still puzzled.
 
Like I said, just way too much for the cold engine and it must have been getting pumped by the injectors with the key being on, even before the starter engaged? The damaged sensor scrambled the signal to the ECT?
 
This is one of those rare cases of need the test harness to check sensor functions. An open circuit of the temp sensor does not log a code, just one of the frustrations of old school diagnostics.
 
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