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HONDA 8F8A cylinder torque specs & timing instructions

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Paulamj

New member
Could anyone please help me out with either of these things? I don't have a service manual - only an owner's manual which doesn't have info on either topic. Thank you!
 
Your question isn't entirely understandable.

Are you needing the cylinder head bolt torque specifications?

And are you timing the valves or timing the ignition?

If you're at all interested in getting the shop manual, here is the link for a brand spankin' new one that is actually less money than the ones I've seen on ebay recently. $43 + ship n tax.

https://publications.powerequipment.honda.com/marine

You can also get by with an older B100/B75 manual to do most repairs. I see those on craigslist all the time for less than $20. You just wouldn't have the BF8A supplement that describes the few differences. But they are few and the valve tapped clearance is the only specification that isn't the same as the other two.
 
jgmo said:
Your question isn't entirely understandable.

Are you needing the cylinder head bolt torque specifications?

And are you timing the valves or timing the ignition?

If you're at all interested in getting the shop manual, here is the link for a brand spankin' new one that is actually less money than the ones I've seen on ebay recently. $43 + ship n tax.

https://publications.powerequipment.honda.com/marine

You can also get by with an older B100/B75 manual to do most repairs. I see those on craigslist all the time for less than $20. You just wouldn't have the BF8A supplement that describes the few differences. But they are few and the valve tapped clearance is the only specification that isn't the same as the other two.
Click to expand...



Yes, I was lookimg for the cylinder head bolt torque values. Also, I'm looking for the timing belt install instructions.... Basically a how-to on setting the timing belt.

Thank you.
 
Ok...

Cylinder head bolt torque is 16 lb. ft.

I'll do my best to get the timing explanation correct. Here goes:

There are FOUR marks involved.

1. A "T" on the flywheel
.
2. A dot or "punch mark" on the cam pulley.

3. A dot or punch mark on the engine block between the cam pulley and the "stand up" for the recoil starter mount bolt.

4. A line mark stamped next to the bolt hole on the "stand up" end for the recoil start assembly.

The stand up is where the 3rd bolt for the recoil starter mount goes. It is between the flywheel and the cam pulley. The stamped line in it is sometimes pretty faint and hard to see. The punch mark on the engine block is often covered with oil and dirt and is also difficult to see on some engines.

Before beggining remove both spark plugs, the flywheel and the timing belt.

Ensure that the top piston is at top dead center.

Remove the valve cover so that you can see when both upper cylinder rocker arms are loose and both valves are closed.

With the timing belt removed, and the flywheel setting on the crankshaft end engaged with the key, you simply line up the "T" on the flywheel with the line mark on the stand up making sure that the upper piston is at the top of the cylinder.

Then line up the punch mark on the cam pulley with the punch mark on the engine block.

Ensure that both upper cylinder valves are closed and the rocker arms aren't touching the valve stems.

This should result in all four marks in line with each other and the valves properly timed.

Carefully remove the flywheel and install the timing belt.

Replace the flywheel making sure all the marks remain in alignment.

Install the flywheel retaining hardware and torque the nut to 47 lb.ft.

Slowly rotate the engine to ensure that it rotates freely making sure there is no binding or interference taking place.

I hope this helps you.

Good luck.
 
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