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Honda 2004 BF 150 dead to me

AK Cheeser

New member
I performed a main line check on my 14 pin connector... measured the #3 terminal voltage and came up with only .20 volts max.
I'm assuming that I need to have 12 volts here.
The troubleshooting guide says that I need to repair an open (circuit?) in the main harness. No idea where to go from there.

I'm dying to start this thing any help to point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
 
Hi,
Are you working with a wiring schematic? I tried downloading the free wiring poster on the Honda Publications website to try and help you but I couldn't get it to load. Having a schematic to work with should make this a fairly easy problem to solve.

But, maybe, we could talk this through anyway. I'm willing to try if you are.

Is the 14 pin connector you are referencing located at the ECM or another location?

Sometimes, not always though, you can identify the other end of that pin 3 circuit by wire color.

This does sound like a partially broken wire in the harness but you have to locate the other terminus to reliably troubleshoot the issue.
 
Thanks for the reply.
I've been referencing a Honda troubleshooting guide that was sent to me.
Yes, I believe it's the ECM where the 14 pin connector is located... forgive me on being a little slow with these abbreviations.
That #3 connector is the white wire with the black stripe. The guide says this one has voltage constantly applied to it.
Thanks again.
 
Ok, just to make sure we're on the same page, is item #2 (ECU) in the link below where that connector plugs in?


Another thing to consider is to make certain that the basics have been covered....

When you cycle the ignition switch to RUN, can you hear the electric fuel pump run briefly?

Does the engine crank when you turn the key to START?

Have you removed and cleaned the battery cable clamps and posts?

Have you checked the fuses? It's always good to pull the small ones out and check them with an ohmmeter rather than just looking at them.

If you have a battery selector switch (1-2-Both switch) you should clean those connections too. Do that while you have the batteries disconnected to prevent shorting.

I'll keep looking while you are answering those questions.
 
I'll do some checking to see where that 14 pin connector plugs in.
I'm pretty sure my problem is upstream a little ways.
On each side of the main 90A fuse I've got 12.7V, but the feed from that post immediately to the right of the 90A fuse and then to the fuses is where I drop to .4V.
No crank nothing at the controls.
New batteries, connections, and cables.

Thanks again.
 
Oh YEAH! It sounds like you're very close already!

I don't know the 150 but I do know that, on the 200-250 efi the MAIN RELAY feeds some of the small fuses.

Although....the main relay GETS that power from other fuses that are hot all the time.

You might try looking at the main relay connections and maybe even gently tapping it to see if you can make something happen. Those relays are known to fail and cause problems.

I can't tell precisely where it's located but think it might be near the starter.

Anyway, item 18 in the link below.

 
if you accidently touch a battery terminal on your new batteries with wrong battery cable it will blow the 10amp red fuel pump fuse which will give you same symptoms you are describing. As mentioned look those over carefully and check with multimeter for continuity.
 
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