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high temps bravo iii Merc. 350 mag

3-legged-dog

Contributing Member
03, bravo iii, Merc. 350 Mag, EFI, 4 port drainage system. Just installed new manifold, spacer, risers. also new water pump assembly.

i have a fresh water tee valve between outdrive and water pump. so i can flush engine.


symptoms;

engine running, water source is muffs on drive high temps above 170 and rising.

engine running, water source is fresh water tee valve, (by pass outdrive) temps around 160 rise a little and drop back down, like tstat opens and closes. holds at 160.

question, does the bravo iii drive have any internal parts or just open water passage thru the drive to the hose at the gimbal housing?

i am getting ready to pull the drive back off and flush water back and forth thru the drive and water system of the engine.

any thoughts on were to look, thanks as always.
 
One issue that may or may not be yours is,
At the transom assembly where the outdrive water hose and the inside transom water hose (hose that goes to water pump impeller housing) meet.
They use a "pinch" type system and the aluminum tansom corrodes and squeezes the hose connection there. Can reduce water flow by greater than 70%...

Also I have seen some of those T flush/garden hose systems not seal well and suck in a lot of air. The spring loaded chech valve does not seat...allowing air to be sucked in by the impeller.......
 
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Also I have seen some of those T flush/garden hose systems not seal well and suck in a lot of air. The spring loaded chech valve does not seat...allowing air to be sucked in by the impeller.......

Even with a "T" flush system that is totally manual, i.e. a ball valve and a gate valve you can suck air. I found that I need to make sure that the washer on the hose is fairly new and that the hose fitting is torqued with a wrench, not finger tight. Also washer on the gate valve, i.e. the one the controls the feed from the garden hose needs replaced every couple of seasons or else a vacuum leak develops during normal engine operation.
 
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