Finally got the new installation working, and after testing it in my on-ground tank, I found that the main problem with the overheating was the Temperature Gauge incorrectly reading.
It was indicating up to 35 F hotter than the true temperature, which I was reading via a Laser Thermometer. I love those new Laser hand-held thermometers.
I did some electrical testing and found that with the ignition on, and the motor stone cold, the voltage at the Sender was reading 9 Volts, but with the engine running, just started, the reading was 10.5 Volts.
Seems like the Current for the gauges is not true, and requires a Resistor to maintain a true voltage that is required for the operation. Most cars run 8 Volts in a 12 Volt system, or 4 Volts in a 6 Volt system. This allows the gauges to still read correctly if the battery starts to go flat, even though the engine is still running.
Back to the H/E, it is working as I would expect, with the hot water at the top, and the cooled coolant coming out the bottom, back to the engine water pump. The Raw Water is cooling the Manifolds beautifully, and retaining the Thermoco Develvo's Manifold Splitter Valve, it assures instant cold water to the rear log to maintain the integrity of the rubber exhaust connector.
The mounting for the HE is 1/8" Stainless Steel that I had lying around, and it is bolted securely into place. Can't have that lump falling off.
The confines of the engine bay require a Header Tank with a bleeder hose to maintain a full head of coolant, and a means of filling the system and seeing how much is in there as well, and this is accomplished by installing a "T" into the Thermostat to HE hose.
The inlet of cold Raw Water from the Leg travels from the Leg, to the Blue Pressure Valve/Splitter, sending initial water to the rubber exhaust, and the rest to the top inlet of the HE, which instantly starts to cool the incoming coolant from the engine.
The Raw Water then passes out through the bottom of the HE, to a splitter (clamped to the bottom Stainless Steel pipe) that then directs the water to the front of the Exhaust Manifold coolant passages, then out each end, and across to the opposite log end to exit out the rubber hoses with the Exhaust Gases. Easier to run the hoses across the engine than try to risk crimping the hoses to come back into the same manifold.
If necessary, I will "fine-tune" the Raw Water to run from the bottom of the HE to the top and out, if it causes a problem, but static testing shows it looking good.
Real-time testing will be done soon, but I need to get the Gauge working correctly.
Bruce.