Logo
FULL SITE MENU

hard shift

J

jasonwhy

New member
hello all.
first time on here. having so issues with my boat. its a volvo penta AQ130D/280. so far i had fixed the feul pump, the little lever and spring fell into the oil pan,new pan gasket,spark plugs, belt, and put an inline feul filter on it. this last time i was out, it would rev GREAT in nutural, but in gear it would only go to 2300 rpm with the throtle all the way down. i also adjusted the carbs. going from nutural to drive, pushing the throtle forward a 1/4 of the way before in goes into gear. there is a clunk also. at a loss on where to start.
this boat has been out 3 times since i bought it. 1st time was ok. 2nd time was good (until the feul pump issue). 3rd time this happened.

thank,jason
 
I'll bet you tighten that screw on the fuel pump up each year now won't you. I betting your downdraft Solex's are a little dirty. Just pop them off and clean them out with some spray carb cleaner and make sure to blow out all the passages you see with as much air pressure you can muster. That center tube is the main jet and it sounds as if it is plugged. Watch out for the banjo fitting washers, they're aluminum and get lost easy.Put it all back together and just tighten the banjos enough so they don't leak. Too many people over tighten these and strip the carb intake hole. The washers are on each side of the banjo.
 
thank you so much gary for the quick response. i cleaned the carbs and noticed that a screw was missing on one of the carbs. oh yeah, that feul pump screw...every year. ran it in N and it ran great. put it in gear and i reved it to 4500 rpms or so. i also, when i put it in gear, there is a clunk noise in or at the prop. is that normal? or is there a bearing/bushing in there i should replace? awsome web site.
thank a million, jason
 
jasonwhy said:
ok,thanks. i will look into that. i have it idling at 900 to 1000. not sure what is normal.
Click to expand...
Ditto sandkicker.

Gear engagement at 900/1,000 rpm is a great way to take out the vertical shaft brass split ring wear washer if running a LH prop.
See your OEM specs in your OEM manual for the proper RPM.
 
thanks for all the advise. very helpful. now i have yet another issue...i just rebuilt both carbs. at first it fired right up. i tried to adjust them but i am failing poorly. also when i get it to idle good (in nutural) rev the rpm's to 3000 or so, it take a long time to drop back down to where i had it set. its also not responsive when i rev it. i havent sinced them yet cause i cant find the tool for it. so my question is this..should i just bite the bullet and take this thing to a boat shop and have them fix the carb issue or is there a trick to it?
thanks again, jason
 
figured it out. it ran good on sunday, 4200 to 4300 rpm's. only other concern is after 20 minutes of full throttle it starts to surg or like its staving for feul. so i lower the idle down to 1800-2000 for a few minutes and when i get back on it, it goes back to a higher rpm for a little while. carbs are not leaking and are copletly rebuit and it idles at 500 rpm's and doesnt die so it is so much better than it was. any advice would help. thanks again, jason
 
20 mins at full throttle? Not a practice that will lead to satisfactory engine life.
Conservative use of a gas engine would indicate that one operates at: (assuming that MAX RPMs at WOT are within the specified range)
1) Continuous operation, i.e. cruise RPMS be limited to 75 to 80% of max WOT RPMS.
2) WOT operation limited to:
a) Occasional check to make sure all is well with the engine, i.e., operate at this RPMs for just a few seconds... i.e., 10 to 20 SECONDS
b) When lives or safety of the boat is at risk, and only until danger is past.

According to several automotive engineers that I've spoken to over the years, the life of some engines at MAX WOT RPMS is about 30 mins.
 
Back
Top