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Got bad stat but cracked housing. What do I do?

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Beagleman

Regular Contributor
Good day guys, I just received a 30 hp Mariner, 2 cylinder one carb, serial number 30 ML 689 L 331200 that was submerged 5 years ago, and yesterday I got it running.

I managed to get at the stat which was bent, green, full of salt, I.e. carroded. However, in the process of extracting the bolts to get at it, I cracked a portion of where the thermostat goes into (one of the three nuts along with a little bit).

My questions are;
-can this be repaired (cheap or expensive)?
-Do I have to replace the whole piece (i.e. face of the power head, where the thermostat sits, as well were the plugs sit).
-I any event, should I take that whole piece off so I can match/fit it up/bring it somewhere to get fixed?

Thanks for any future help.

Robby
 
Yes, not seeing the new thread either.

So - you are talking about the cylinder head itself that you buggered up and not just the thermostat cover.

In the process of removing the cover and getting the thermostat out you wrecked the "base", which is cast into the head???

(see the diagram below - I have put a big black arrow pointing at what I think you are talking about)..
30 Mariner.jpg
 
galamb said:
Yes, not seeing the new thread either.

So - you are talking about the cylinder head itself that you buggered up and not just the thermostat cover.

In the process of removing the cover and getting the thermostat out you wrecked the "base", which is cast into the head???

(see the diagram below - I have put a big black arrow pointing at what I think you are talking about)..
View attachment 7643
Click to expand...


Yes graham, that is correct (As in yes, the area where the arrow is is were I cracked it off.). How can I mediate this issue? BTW, how do I attach pics to threads/messages?
thanks again.
 
Last time I looked at a parts supplier's page, that cylinder head was no longer available - so you'd be looking at scarfing up a used one (e-bay?/other?). Good news - the head gasket looks to be still available :) Pending a look at your photos, to fully assess the problem, I'd try a repair w/JB Weld, to keep things moving, and, concurrently search for a used replacement head. Not a whole lot going on in that area of the head, other than 3-4 psi of cooling water pressure and a little heat, so a JB Weld fix might be a good interim step. If you can upload the photos I might have some suggestions on how to proceed with a temp. repair.
 
Thanks to no end minute man, i really appreciate it. I'm on the case, i'll give you an update.

The pics were small enough to email but for some reason I can't attach them to posts or files. BTW, how do you get at the lower bolts on the head's face plate because I'll need to take it off once I find one.

Robby
 
Beagleman said:
Thanks to no end minute man, i really appreciate it. I'm on the case, i'll give you an update.

The pics were small enough to email but for some reason I can't attach them to posts or files. BTW, how do you get at the lower bolts on the head's face plate because I'll need to take it off once I find one.

Robby
Click to expand...

I haven't removed those bolts yet - but I did re-torque them. The problem was my 3/8" drive socket wouldn't fit down there. I had to take a box end wrench and rig it to the drive of my torque wrench - then calculate the torque based on the extended length. You might find extra long metric box end wrenches at Harbor Freight or similar store. Or maybe do a similar jerry rig with a regular size box end wrench and a 3/8" drive socket.
 
minuteman62-64 said:
I actually found my post on another forum that has photos of my jerry-rig "wrench" for torqueing the lower two head bolts. maybe a similar adaptation for removal? See: http://forums.iboats.com/mercury-mariner-outboards/access-torquing-head-bolts-522426.html
Click to expand...


Well, thanks for all your help. Here's an update.

i did crow's feet trick, it worked. however, I ended up cracking 2 bolts, one of which is at the very bottom.

So; -how do I get those bolts out?
-how do I remove the lower cowling to even access them (i kinda need to at this point because
the bottom bolt is broken) unless you got another solution?

Btw, are there any video links to show how to do this stuff?

Appreciate any help so far, as well as future help.

Robby
 
So back to your initial issue, you cracked the (base) for the thermostat cover.

As suggested JB Weld is an option. A company called "Starbrite" makes an epoxy stick in either "metal" or "aluminum" (available at Canadian Tire). Kinda like Play-Do. You can mold it to whatever shape you want and 24 hours later it's hard as a rock, but can be filed or shaped (dremel tool works great) - plus you can "tap" it and it will hold more than well enough.

You are just talking about a thermostat cover base here on a water channel, not holding "head pressure" - most it's likely to see is maybe 20 psi (and that would be super high for a water pump to put out).

So I would "gloop" it back together, tap a new hole(s) as necessary, make sure the thermostat will sit properly and move on to your next adventure with this motor. :)
 
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