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gearcase oil reccomendation honda 225 - 2002

aristakat

aristakat

Regular Contributor
OK guys need input was told other day could get gearcaseoil at local nNapa dealer no name version..

I chose west marine purchased quicksilver high proformance gear oil instead.. was curious what others use/ recommend ?

Thanks in advance for feedback
 
I'm clearly no expert on this, and my answer my be pretty controversial, but when it comes to lower gear oil, I'm not very particular. As long it's the correct viscosity, and has a marine designation, a Walmart or NAPA special works for me. The key is to change it out every 200 hours. After a few changes using the Honda specified oil, I noticed no significant debris on the magnetic plug or in the changed oil. In fact I kept wondering why I was changing it. I then had to pull a few 200-hour maintenance procedures down at Hatteras, where the only thing available was the NAPA basic stuff. It seemed to perform as well as the Honda oil - no flakes and no debris. And at Hatteras I was running the engine longer and harder than on the Chesapeake. In addition to that, the commercial guys around here that use the big Honda's only change their lower unit oil once a year, if that, and do not seem to be having any lower unit problems.
 
Guys,

I can't get the lower unit screw out- when to drain/change my LU oil and the lower screw won't budge. Even tried an impact wrench-Any suggestions on getting this out?

Thx!
 
Soak in PB Blaster. Then take a flat blade screw driver that fits the slot snugly, and tap, tap, tap. Repeat until you can turn it out.
 
Had same issue while back used heat mildly but most important trick was using impact driver.. if screws gets danged ever so slightly I replace.. heat and impact driver will get it for sure frustrating though for sure.. sorry other line those screws seem to be made soft metal also

Thanks chawk for input that's what I though like the 200 hr change in I have been doing 300 or each season
 
Seems to me that an allen head bolt or an inverted square headed bolt would have been a better design, IMO.

Jamie - as much as you run those engines and as old as they are, I suspect 300 hour interval is acceptable.
 
I guess I will throw my two cents in the pot.

We use Mercury High Performance on most of the larger Hondas. It sometimes will minimize lower unit noise and can help a little better if there is any water intrusion. I have no comment on the Walmart stuff. I am not a Chemical engineer.

Now for the intervals....

Unless there is something I missed, the suggested interval for changing gear lube is every 100 hour or 6 months (whichever comes first).

Extending it past that time is certainly up to the owner of the boat. Of course the lubricating properties will dwindle over time. If you are changing it yourself, you will see how black it is.

My concern in extending the interval.....what happens if you pick up fishing line and wrap it around the prop shaft on hour 200. Then, the line cuts into the prop shaft seal, letting water (salt water..in your case) into the gear case. If you do not change the gear lube for another 100 hours, you will have salt water in your gear case and ultimately, that may be your only lube left. Most likely, the lower unit will lock up.

This is a good opportunity for a "risk manager" to evaluate, the balance between "recommendations" and the value of time and money, and risk.

Just saying....

Mike
 
Mike - Roger that, and I'm almost always in total agreement with you - you're the expert. I agree that it's important to always check the lower unit oil for level and possible water intrusion, as well as pull the prop, lube, and check for any obstructions at every 100 hour maintenance interval. I guess after about 800 hours, I noticed that the lower unit oil looks as new and smelled as new as when I put it in. There were no discernible metal on the magnetic plug, and no sign of water intrusion. So, I pushed the change interval to 200 hours, and I'm still seeing no significant changes. Maybe I've just been lucky with that. But in the long run, you are correct - error on the side of caution and prudence.
 
Hello
My question is this Evinrude changes there lower unit oil every three years so with that said why not use there lower unit oil?Even if you change it every 2 years it must certainly be high QUALITY!
Sincerely
Greg
 
Be careful of the ETEC marketing. Check all of the notes and caveats on page 45 (maintenance schedule) in an ETEC owner's manual.
http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/...ts/OwnersManuals_EJ/attach/2012/216075 EN.pdf
Also note 1 which is as follows:

" Average recreational use. Commercial use, heavy use, or use in salt or polluted water requires more frequent inspection and maintenance (annual checks are recommended)."

Bottom line...each manufacture has different recommendations and you should make sure you understand what they (all of them) are saying.

Mike
 
Hello
CHawk
No need to be snarky I was just asking a question I thought it was about lower unit oil! About another companys oil or use of.
I own a HONDA only a 150HP
Sincerely
Greg
 
Greg - no intent to be snarky. You just jumped into the thread with what looked like an entirely different question.

This goes for both motor oils and heavy oils - even though there may be a 100 plus brands out there, when it's all said and done, there are only about four or five manufacturers of the stuff in the US. It may be that the engine manufacturers who brand their own lubricants do have an elaborate formulation specific to their particular products and have a manufacturer make that production run. But I am very skeptical about that, especially in light of the cost of doing a small-batch production run at a refinery. It could be that the engine manufacturers use a basic oil and have their own batch of additives. I don't know, but I'm still skeptical about that.

Consider this little gem I pulled off the Internet a few years ago when I was researching this issue: "Toyota motor oil is made by Mobil. Mobil is using their Mobil Clean formula, not to be confused with Mobil Drive Clean 5000 which is higher priced. Mobil only packages their Mobil Clean in drums and bulk. Mobil's own literature terms this oil as "a entry level oil." The same Mobil oil is also the Honda factory oil and the GM Goodwrench oil."

I remain skeptical. Just rely on the API ratings, and that is all that is required IMO.
 
Hello CHawk
I never look for confrontation just like to get as much information as I can and as we know there are only a few company's making everything. My quest and I believe that most of us I'LL say average guys are looking to save as much as we can and learn`! I want to thank you and many other GUYS that take the time to HELP us!!!!
SINCERELY
Greg
 
When you ask 10 people about oil and lubrication you usually get 15 different answers.-------Not going to change , that is the way it is.---------Follow your manual on this.
 
Thanks all will keep using oil I just put in ..by the way 300 hrs gearcase oil was black and magnetic plug had some shavings as expected nothing big though..
 
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