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Fresh water cooling kits

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danbraud

New member
"I purchased a 2000 Searay 310

"I purchased a 2000 Searay 310 sudancer at the end of last boating season. I ran it only 5 hrs and before ti was time to pull if out of the water and winterize it. The engines (twin Mercruiser IO, 5.7 EFI, Bravo 3)are raw water cooled with 345 hrs on them. The boat was always moored in fresh water but traveled into salt water on occasion, always returning to fresh water for mooring. In my openion this kept the cooling systems welled flushed with fresh water. I now moved the boat to another marina down river and I'm getting ready to put it back into the water there (in salt water) for this boating season. Would it be advisible to install a fresh water cooling system using the kits that can be purchased (including heat exchnger etc.) before I start useing the boat exclusivly in Salt water. Would this create a problem by adding coolant in an engine block after raw water cooling use for 8 or more years now? How long should i expect the engines to hold up in the salt water comditiond with raw water cooling? I also thought of installing a "T" fitting and valves in the intake water line (coming from the outdrive to the raw water pump)and flushing with fresh water after each weekend use. is this a worthwhile option?
Dan"
 
"The topic is controversial we

"The topic is controversial wether or not a fresh water cooling system would be viable at this point. Most of the manufacturers protectant is gone from an engine after several seasons with raw water cooling. I have seen owners who have meticulously cared for their engines and flush them regularly and they have sucessfully extended the life of the engine. I personally know some fellow boaters who have made it to 1500+ hours in near coastal salt water conditions.
Your idea for the "T" fitting in order that you can conveniently flush the engines is a good one and many will suggest that you install them. Twofold, if you decide to keep your boat in water in winter months (I do)then an easy method to winterize your engines and I/O's would also be wise. For what you are trying to accomplish, a trip to the plumbing supply house should have what you will need or kits are available on the internet marine supply sites.
YES! Installing a system to reduce salt exposure is DEFINATELY a worthwhile option. Best to you on this project."
 
I vote with Cholly - the '

I vote with Cholly - the 'flushing' system is the most cost effective option.
 
I have decided to replace the

I have decided to replace the manifolds and elbows for good measure and install the flushing system. how much longer can i expect the ceramic coated manifolds to last over the standard cast iron units. the ceramic type is twice the price. is it worth th money?
Thanks
Dan
 
"I've got 12 years on mine

"I've got 12 years on mine but they are fresh water cooled.

If the coating isn't on the inside of the passages, it won't matter much, as that's the first place they fail."
 
"Dan: There are several artic

"Dan: There are several articles you may find on the NET that give the pros or cons to ceramic coating. Naturally, corrosion resistance is what is expressed but don't negate that cast iron, on its own, will dissipate heat different than ceramic. Some say ceramic has a better chance of hot spots than cast iron. So you see, everyone or any various boating articles can have an opinion. Another recent finding is stainless steel. Pros are corrosion resistance and weight. The expansion rate vs. cast iron rate can cause problems with properly sealing the exhaust ports to the manifolds. Personally, due to lower cost, and provided you take reasonable care of your engine, I have never ventured away from cast iron. That's just my choice not to mention it goes well with my boating budget."
 
"BTW guys ! A month or so ago

"BTW guys ! A month or so ago I posted a sketch how I modified my strainers for quick engine flush and/or winterizing. Here it is again. The total modification cost less than $100 bucks vs kits from a discount marine store. Works great for me.
250963.jpg
Engine/Strainer Flush Connect
 
"Thanks Guys
I saw the flush

"Thanks Guys
I saw the flush system detail and like it but, i have twin i/o with bravo III. so you see, i have no strainer as you do. I need to cut into the seawater supply line and install valve and T fittings. not so difficult but i need to go to the boat to confirm what size hose in connected to the supply side of the raw water pump so i can purchase the fittings. i think the hose is a 1" diameter but i'm not sure. as i mentioned earilly i recentlly purchased this boat and i'm not too farmillier with it yet. I think i will go cast iorn manifold. i've used them in the past on my previous boat and had no problems after 5 yrs of service and was still working well when i sold the boat. good to hear from your experirnces.
Great site!
thanks
Dan"
 
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