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Evinrude 6 hp starting problems

4

4fishin&huntin

Contributing Member
Just finished the rebuild on my 1972 6202D. The moment of truth came when I tried to start it. I was very encouraged when it popped a few times and sputtered. But it wont stay running more than about 3-4 seconds. Don't know what's going on. After several short 3 second runs it won't even start at all now.
Some background info: new fuel lines and tank, rebuilt fuel pump, new plugs, points and condensers. Many parts replaced internally too; rings, bearings, seals, etc.

Hope someone can give some help.

Thanks.
 
I would definitely get a torque wrench. Remembering the last flywheel nut I put on, I doubt I would have cranked it as tight as that torque wrench told me to. If you do re-torque the nut, take off the flywheel again and verify that you didn't shear the flywheel key due to insufficient torque.
 
So I finally got around to re-torque the flywheel, as suggested. Doesn't seem to make a difference. Have not done the ground wire as it never had one originally, I didn't think it was really needed. Right now I have spark but it wont even sputter anymore. Any ideas??? Would the ground wire be the "silver bullet"?
 
Related topic: I'm replacing rings on '77 6 hp (poor compression) that has front/side spool rewind/recoil starter. As I disassemble/reassemble, is there a way to remove/install recoil as n assembly or do I need to take recoil all apart? Can't remove carburator as recoil in the way.
 
Save yourself some grief.----------Use a screw driver and a hammer to take off the tricky nut.---------Install it the same way as they are not that tight.
 
Tried to start the motor again, noticed the fuel line to the fuel pump was leaking when squeezing primer bulb. Put a better hose clamp on and tried to start again. Now I'm back to having it sputter a few seconds and then die. Any ideas? Thank you.
 
I have rarely had to ground the stator plate on these as they ground in 3 places, the hub itself, the thrust plate and spring, lastly the timing actuating/throttle arm. It is a great idea, however to ensure the perfect ground, but I don't think its your problem. If your getting a good 1/4 inch spark jump, then you have to look at your fuel supply. If the float bowl is full when your trying to start.......and its only running for a few seconds, then I would suspect carb. How did the reed plate look? Why was the motor rebuilt to begin with? Does it have good compression now?
 
Guess my post was hijacked by Eb, thanks buddy. Anyway, how do you check that the float bowl is full? I get fuel coming out the front of the choke after priming. The reed plate looked like it was OK, both reeds were in place with a little gap from the plate. The motor was rebuilt because one of the pistons was seized up. Have not done a compression test since I do not own a compression gauge but thought with the new rings, etc. it should be good.
 
4,

You need to do that compression test, even after having that work done. If you have good compression, good spark (1/2" gap jump), and it still won't start then you most likely fuel delivery.

Did you do the carb yourself? If so, you should have pulled any Welch plugs as part of the cleaning process. You may have some crud in those passages that you were unable to access and clean.

Good luck.

CMOS
 
Guess I'll have to find someone that can loan me the compression gauge. 1/2 inch gap jump? I've been told earlier in this post a 1/4" gap jump. Anyway, I guess I can look into the welch plug too. I did not remove these as I have heard some mixed opinions about doing so. Maybe that's why it should be done? Thanks for the help.
 
I suggest that you target the fuel pump and its hose upstream of the pump even though the fuel pump has been rebuilt. 1st if fuel can leak out then air can leak in upstream of the pump. If you are sure that the float level is set properly then gently squeeze the primer bulb while starting to manually feed fuel to the carburetor. If it stays running then check the assembly of the fuel pump. A clear length of fuel line between the pump and carburetor might help tell the story for you too on fuel supply. I have no pride left when I am working on my '66 6hp and take everything apart to check my work. Usually doesn't take me much time to do and redo something now and usually I find that the engine is not the problem, its me much of the time!
 
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OK, thanks for the help. I don't have any pride when it comes to this motor. I've never owned or worked on an outboard before so this has been a challenge. Thankfully between this forum and other information found on the internet I'm gaining some knowledge. I think I will remove that welch plug and clean whatever is under it. I think the real culprit may be the fuel pump though, seems to be leaking a little fuel by when priming. I may have to pull that off and check my work.
 
4fishin&huntin said:
OK, thanks for the help. I don't have any pride when it comes to this motor. I've never owned or worked on an outboard before so this has been a challenge. Thankfully between this forum and other information found on the internet I'm gaining some knowledge. I think I will remove that welch plug and clean whatever is under it. I think the real culprit may be the fuel pump though, seems to be leaking a little fuel by when priming. I may have to pull that off and check my work.
Click to expand...

Remove and re-clean the jets when you do this. You could dislodge some crud when cleaning under the plugs that would move to the jets and clog. Be thorough, and patient.

CMOS
 
Check out Leeroysramblings with a google search. He covers the 6hp of our year really well. I enjoy reading his articles and he has good pictures too.
 
So after reviewing leeroys again, he also talks about removing the 2 lead shot sealed passageway covers. If I remove these, what is used to reseal them? Lead shot did not come with the rebuild kit.
 
In most cases, unless your carb is REALLY badly gunked up, you will not need to remove the Lead plugs. Do remove and replace the Welsh plugs however.

CMOS
 
So I removed the welsh plug and cleaned the carb thoroughly. Re-installed on the motor. Now it starts and stays running for about 5 seconds, Progress! The other thing that happened is that fuel was leaking from the fuel pump when priming. I assume this should not happen. So I will check my rebuild on that next.
 
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