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Evinrude 175 no spark

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oldschool71

New member
Hello I am hoping that someone from this forum will be able to help me. I have posted on other forums looking for help with my engine but have not been able to solve the problem.

I have an 89 Evinrude 75 XP. The problem that I am having is that my engine is very hard to start when it is put in the water for the first time. I have to turn the engine over for a very long time or try starting it for a few minutes give up and fish for 10 or 15 minutes than go back and it will usually start up. The engine will start every time after the intial startup with just a touch of the key. The boat runs very good once it has been started and I have no problems with idling or anything like that, it is just the initial startup.

We have had the boat in the driveway on muffs and found that the 2 top plugs on the port side of the motor are not getting spark when initially trying to start the motor but once it has been started they have spark. I know that there is plenty of fuel going to the cylinders. I have taken the boat to three separate mechanics and had them fix what they thought was wrong with the engine.

1) Replaced the powerpack
2) Rebuilt the carbs
3) well he didn't replace anything he just went through it and told me that it was fixed.

As I have said earlier this is only happening when I first try to start the motor when the boat is put in the water. I have noticed that at the intial startup it will smoke a lot but I am sure that this is due to all of the fuel from it taking so long to start. After the initial startup I can be on the river all day long and the engine will start with just a touch of the key.

I have had people telling me to replace the timer base but I am really hesitant to do this as I have already invested a lot of money on parts that people have told me were wrong.

Please help!!!!
 
Is the following your starting procedure?

(Proper Starting Method - Fuel Primer Solenoid - Choke Butterflies)
(J. Reeves)

Cold Engine: Pump fuel primer bulb up hard. Increase throttle somewhat with whatever type control you might have UNLESS your engine is equipped with the "Fast Start" feature. Turn key to start position. As engine cranks over, push in key to activate the fuel primer solenoid OR to close the choke butterfly(s). (Fuel is drawn into the crankcase with every upward stroke of the pistons).When engine fires/starts, release the key. Should engine start to die out, push key in (just a tap) as needed to activate primer solenoid OR choke butterfly(s) in order to momentatily increase the fuel flow.

Warm engine: Pump fuel primer bulb up hard. Turn key to start position. When engine fires/starts, release the key. If engine does not fire/start within 6 revolutions, push in key to activate fuel primer solenoid OR choke butterfly(s) as needed.

This is assuming that the engine is as it should be in all respects (Compression, Ignition, Carburetion, Fuel Supply, etc).

NOTE: Many boaters with the engines incorporating the "Fuel Primer Solenoid" use a method to start their "cold" engine(s) whereas they pressurize their fuel primer bulb, then without cranking the engine over (Key ON), they push in the key to energize the fuel primer solenoid. This allows the pressurized fuel line to have fuel flowing directly into the intake manifold area... a puddle of fuel mixture sitting there waiting to be drawn in as soon as the engine cranks over. Many swear by this method... a matter of choice, opinion, whatever. However, what OMC originally recommended is as you see stated above this paragraph... but then again... whatever works for you.

Engines incorporating the older choke butterfly setup..... Of course, with the engine NOT running but with the key in the ON position, pushing the key in to activate the choke results in closing the butterfly (butterflies) but does absolutely nothing other then to verify that the choke assembly is operational. The engine must of course be cranking over to create the needed vacuum to drawn the fuel into the crankcase.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
(Testing Spark)
A spark test must be done with "all" of the spark plugs removed. A tester should be used whereas a 7/16" gap can be set for the spark to jump. The spark should jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? (No Tester? Read on)................

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.

Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

Let us know what you find.
 
Last edited:
I am not sure if my engine has the quick start function. I have always advanced the throttle about 1/3 of the way and I usually prime the key for about 4 seconds and than start to crank the motor over. If the motor fires I will start the procedure over again. How will I know if I have the quick start feature?
 
oldschool71 said:
I am not sure if my engine has the quick start function. I have always advanced the throttle about 1/3 of the way and I usually prime the key for about 4 seconds and than start to crank the motor over. If the motor fires I will start the procedure over again. How will I know if I have the quick start feature?
Click to expand...

Use this method:

Pump fuel primer bulb up hard.

Increase throttle just slightly to avoid dead idle setting.

Turn key to start position and push in key and hold it there to activate the fuel primer solenoid while cranking.

When engine fires/starts, release the key.

Should engine start to die out, push key in (just a tap) as needed to activate primer solenoid in order to momentatily increase the fuel flow.

---------------------
The fast start feature allows the engine's electronic timing to automatically advance slightly when the engine is cold. This results is an increased idle when the throttle is set at a dead idle. As the engine warms up, the fast start feature will disengage and the idle rpm will drop.

The engines with the fast start feature will have "two" wires instead of one protruding from at least one of the overheat sensors in the cylinder heads.... normally the port head.
 
Tried the starting procedure that was recommended by joereeves. I primed the ball until hard. Kept the throttle in its neutral position. Started to turn the motor over and pressed the key in for a 4 second count (did not fire). Turned the motor over a again and pushed the key in for another 4 seconds (did not fire). Went back to the motor and pulled the top plug on the starboard side to test for spark. Had my son turn the engine over. As soon as he started to turn the key over the engine fired so I had him stop and I put the plug back in. I turned the key over and the engine fired right up. Once the engine fired up I noticed that it was not running right so I took my timing light and started testing plugs to see which ones were firing. The motor was only running on 3 cylinders. I shut off the motor, paused for thought and my father arrived. I explained to him what had happened and he had me start the motor again. Still running on 3 cylinders he told me to rev the throttle and walla! As soon as I revved it they all started firing and it idled perfectly.

So now I have 2 questions for you.

1) When starting should I advance the throttle a little ways?

2) Do I need to decrease the length of time that I hold in the primer key? To keep it from loading up or is there another issue here???
 
The engine needs to crank over at least 300 rpm in order to have the stator under the flywheel (beginning of the ignition/charging system) energize the powerpack capacitor.

Needed to remove a spark plug to have the engine fire? That procedure simply allows the engine to crank over faster.

This indicates that the engine IS NOT cranking over at the proper rpm = faulty electric starter, faulty battery, good but undercharged battery, loose cable, tight cable but with dirty terminal, something of that nature.

Also take a good look at that stator to see if a sticky looking substance is dripping down on the timer base and powerhead area.
 
I have checked and it is cranking fast enough. The cranking speed did not noticibly change when I took the one plug out. I only did that to check for spark. I have had the starter rebuilt last year and the battery is new this year.

There is a small amount of the black tar substance around the stator coils but I have had it tested and it has tested good.

I am hoping that this is a starting procedure problem.
 
The stator on that engine has two large black coils that provide approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor when the engine is being cranked over at the proper rpm.

If one or both of those black coils is leaking a sticky looking substance, that will result in a voltage drop which in turn will result in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition.
 
I am having the same issue I believe....inhereted from father-in-law....1989 Evinrude 175....no spark, had new power pack installed several years ago and was running great according to him. Now after sitting for about 5 years, I get it, and trying to get it going again!

The coils you mention on the stator....can I buy them individually? Or do I need to replace the entire stator. The coils are dripping the black goo...

Thanks for the support!
 
Answers to questions can help you.-----Is the battery in good shape and load tested ?-----Have you taken the starter apart for inspection and ohm test on armature.-----Is the kill switch in the right position?
 
Thanks for the quick reply....

Battery is strong and I have load tested, the starter is strong too, cranks very fast. The kill switch is also in the right position. I have the shop manual for the engine and will continue to troubleshoot....waiting on some jumpers in the mail so I can start doing some testing. Just saw where "joereeves" mentioned the coils dripping black goo and thinking there mey be a suspect there!
 
oldschool71 said:
Hello I am hoping that someone from this forum will be able to help me. I have posted on other forums looking for help with my engine but have not been able to solve the problem.

I have an 89 Evinrude 75 XP. The problem that I am having is that my engine is very hard to start when it is put in the water for the first time. I have to turn the engine over for a very long time or try starting it for a few minutes give up and fish for 10 or 15 minutes than go back and it will usually start up. The engine will start every time after the intial startup with just a touch of the key. The boat runs very good once it has been started and I have no problems with idling or anything like that, it is just the initial startup.

We have had the boat in the driveway on muffs and found that the 2 top plugs on the port side of the motor are not getting spark when initially trying to start the motor but once it has been started they have spark. I know that there is plenty of fuel going to the cylinders. I have taken the boat to three separate mechanics and had them fix what they thought was wrong with the engine.

1) Replaced the powerpack
2) Rebuilt the carbs
3) well he didn't replace anything he just went through it and told me that it was fixed.

As I have said earlier this is only happening when I first try to start the motor when the boat is put in the water. I have noticed that at the intial startup it will smoke a lot but I am sure that this is due to all of the fuel from it taking so long to start. After the initial startup I can be on the river all day long and the engine will start with just a touch of the key.

I have had people telling me to replace the timer base but I am really hesitant to do this as I have already invested a lot of money on parts that people have told me were wrong.

Please help!!!!
Click to expand...
Again, doubt anyone is still on this forum but I have the same problem as this guy. Idles fine. Terrible to start cold. Doesn’t even fire when cranking. Sometimes I’ll leave it and fish and then after a while it’ll start eventually and smoke a ton from that fuel. Anytime after the initial start it starts instantly with the slightest turn of the key. Runs like it’s new but just the initial startup is killing me. I Doubt it’s the startup procedure, so has to be something ignition related? My stator is leaking the goop. Is that the issue?
 
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