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Engine wont Start No Gas to Carb

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Douglas57

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No Gas to Engine replaced Filter, New Manual Pump, the Water seperator and still Engine wont run Any Ideas Why? Have Blown Lines out To Tank they are clear, Filters that were replaced had no water of Stuff in them. What is next ?
 
did you fill the new filter when you installed it?

Another option is to add some fuel to the carb's float bowl so the engine will run and see if that enables the new pump to prime the system.
 
The first thing I Got from a mechanic Is that the Cam shaft is gone & I need to replace it or go to and Electric pump. I checked the old pump That I Took out It still works when you pump it Manually.
 
makomark said:
if the pump was installed correctly, the lob could be wiped...did somebody measure the rod's travel?
Click to expand...

No I just push the rod up in the engine and I Made sure when I put pump in that rod was up so as to hit pump when cam turned I Think I pushed rod up 2.5 to 3 inches
 
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Douglas57 said:
No I just push the rod up in the engine and I Made sure when I put pump in that rod was up so as to hit pump when cam turned I Think I pushed rod up 2.5 to 3 inches
Click to expand...

macomark I took Pump off last night the rod is stuck showing about 1/2 inch to 3/4 s of an inch however it won't move up or down. When I took old pump off it slid up and down nice and easy. Now stuck So When I put pump on the first time it had slid down the pump was tipped and it must have scratched the rod when I tried to bolt the pump back on it had to much of a gap at the topc so I took back off This time the rod did not slid to easy and I force it back up in th shaft now its stuck I tried to crank engine and it did not move at all Any ideas on how to get the shaft out ?
 
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Oh Chit!
The rod should be free to slide as I guess you have figured out. Pretty sure there's a pipe plug you have to pull to get it all the way out...how to do it, a lot will depend upon how much access you have. it should be too hard to remove with a decent set of pliers...try taping the jaws so you don't mar the surface any more than it already is.

The rod may not move when you crank the engine it it isn't up against the cam. when you put the thing back together again, rotate the engine so the rod is against the low side of the cam...it will make things MUCH easier. also, wheel bearing grease on the shaft will help keep it in the bore. Some people also have found a hacksaw blade helps as well.
 
Macomark Thank You for all your expertise with this current matter I greatly appreciate your help here . I see you know my friend Major_tom He has been a great asset to have around I just did not have him around when I Put pump in. Damage to rod is all mine you force things they some times break or get damaged. Hey I shall try the pliers thing to see if that frees it up any other ideas on how to get out? Also if damaged where would I go to order new crusader engine parts?
Thanks Again Mike
 
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Tom has always been an asset around here...I believe he knows the next step if you have to drive the pushrod out.

you can get a replacement pushrod at any autoparts store or any decent machine shop...same part goes into the marine builds and it is common between the older small blocks and big blocks.

if it is wedged in the bore tightly and you have great access, you may want to consider drilling and tapping and using a slide hammer vs pulling the intake...if you have the equipment...
 
Erich Yes we are Running Now! Installed a new electric fuel pump, when we turned the key on fuel pumped Hurray! I turned the key the rest of the way & engine fired right up. Just to make sure I am taking both Carbs today off to get Cleaned & rebuilt. Now the Starbort engine fires instantly the port engine is slow to start. I might even change that manual pump to electric! what a difference from the way it ws before so hard to get going. I will let you know what happens further mike
 
I hope you wired the oil pressure switch in that electric fuel pump circuit? If not, you're not only running illegally--it's a USCG requirement--you are asking for a disaster if there's a fuel leak.

Jeff
 
Working on That right now. Have T valve and pressure switch, plus wireing etc. Just dropped off both Carb's for a rebuild and will have switch installed this week. Thanks for the Info. it is greatly appreciated want to do what is right for sure Mike
 
Good. I installed a momentary by-pass switch on my old boat so I could fill the carb, which was empty after leaving the boat for a week. That reduced unnecessary cranking. To start the motor, I first cranked her over a few revolutuons (dry carb) to be sure there was no water in the cylinders (it happens). I then hit the mpmentary button to fill the carb with fuel. The motor then started immediately (vs. 10 seconds of cranking over as the oil pressure finally came up, THEN the pump turned on).

Jeff
 
macomark Got another problem with Carbs Had rebuilt and some how in the process of putting carbs back on I nocked a nut in the carb manafold we looked all over but found nothing so I put carb back on didn't know it was inside and started engine heard rap of something inside manafold shut engine down took carb off and turned engine over again we heard nothing this time What do i do to get nut out of there? Any Ideas Mike
 
You have to find it first....do you have access to a borescope? They are great devices for inspection without extensive removal.

If you are lucky, the nut will be in one of the intake runners above the intake valve. mechanical fingers would probably be good there.

If the nut passed the intake valve and went into the cylinder, you need to assess if it did any damage to the bore or the piston or the valve areas...

lets just hope it is still in the intake runner...
 
macomark

I'll see who might have one at this time you think it might still be in the intake area I heard the thing boucing arount when engine started we quiclkly shut down took crab off an tried turning her over but we heard nothing when we did that If i Take intake manifold off what are the chances its their where we heard it boucning around.



makomark said:
You have to find it first....do you have access to a borescope? They are great devices for inspection without extensive removal.

If you are lucky, the nut will be in one of the intake runners above the intake valve. mechanical fingers would probably be good there.

If the nut passed the intake valve and went into the cylinder, you need to assess if it did any damage to the bore or the piston or the valve areas...

lets just hope it is still in the intake runner...
Click to expand...
 
Anything is possible...the only way to find out is look...I think "looking" is less effort than "removing" until you know for sure that removing is required.

I'd say the worst case is the nut went into the combustion chamber and was pressed into the dome of the piston...best case is the nut has past thru.

If you get the scope, check the intake manifold, each intake runner, and if necessary, remove the spark plugs and check each cylinder.
 
Mako, we pulled the head on the right side of the block after the boroscope revealed some marks on the piston dome in the #8 hole. There was a small piece of steel in the cylinder that got sucked in when the carb was reintalled. It looked somewhat like a 1" piece of 1/4" key stock. It was beaten up a little bit, broken in half, and deformed even though the engine had only been run for 20-30 seconds. The forensic team is a little stumped right now as to what it may have been but plan to continue the investigation.

Examination of the cylinder revealed the following. The piston dome actually looked quite good with minimal scarring and a few small surface wounds. There was no apparant damage to the valves.

More worrisome are the two small scratches fairly close together near the top of the cylinder wall. They are about 2" long and superficial as well (no more than a few thousands of an inch deep, probably less). Very minor scratches by all accounts. There are no other marks on the cylinder and all the other cylinders are fine. We pulled the other head and no other damage was seen. The heads have been sent to a good machine shop for reconditioning.

Our thinking right now is that because the is only minimal internal damage the way forward is to get the heads back and reassemble with new Felpro marine gaskets and see how she runs. Do you agree? Should anything be done to try to polish the scratches out, or should they be left alone?

Bear in mind that this is a 23 year old motor. It would have to come out of the boat to hone the cylinder and at that point it would make more sense to replace it with a remanufactured block versus repairing the old one. The motor has a little less than 800 hours and only saw about 10 hours of use this year. We also found a broken spark plug in the #2 hole and the piston there had a lot of carbon from not firing. So right now we may have a net gain since #2 was being dragged along. Maybe we will lose a little compression on #8 but I doubt there will be a significant loss and with a nice clean carb and #2 back in the game, we feel we have a good chance for improved performance.

What do you think?

Best wishes,

Tom
 
based on the observations you've shared, I'd agree with your course of action....still curious where the nut went though - hopefully out the exhaust.

Good Luck and keep us appraised of the progress.
 
Should be up and running this Sunday. We plan on checking compression first and then seeing how it runs.

We will post the results, and possibly a picture or two of the affected cylinder.
 
Great!

Hey Mike - make sure you plan an appropriate set of events to celebrate the return of this engine to functional status.
 
Yes Sir ! makomark: I shall do that. Just got the news from Machine shop, Heads are done (Hurray No Additional Problems ) I shall Pick them up tomorrow and get things ready for the install, I will keep you informed espicially with major_tom at my side, we will get it done Right. Thanks again for all your help. Mike
 
We determined that the piece of steel recovered from cylidner #8 was in fact the lost carb. nut smashed flat and then broken in half. So that's where the mssing nut went.

We got the engine all back to together Sunday AM. it was a lot of work. We measured compression on the motor cold before we put the carb on and with all the plugs out. Compression on the affected #8 cylinder was 70 PSI; all the other cylinders were between 120-150. This result did not give us a good feeling.

The engine started but ran rough. There was also fairly loud knock that seemed to be coming from the area around #8. The knock got louder with increasing RPMS. Maybe that cylidner is not firing due to low compression? Piston slap? Perhaps the connecting rod or bearings were damaged when the nut was smashed?

We did not hear the knocking noise during the compression check but then again the motor wasn't actually running. We are a little confused and we do not have a good result right now.

Best wishes,

Tom
 
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