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Engine wonbt start

pandion

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"I have a Crusader engine, sti

"I have a Crusader engine, still working on exact size, but I think it's a 1968 327. When I turn the key I get an obnoxious sound from something called a "Crusader Warning System". It's connected directly off the switch under the cabinet & it looks like an old round metal bike horn. Does anyone know what it is, what it does, where can I get it replaced or repaired?
Thanks in advance; you guys rock!"
 
"Probably it's an engine a

"Probably it's an engine alarm that's saying the motor has no oil pressure, which it doesn't until it's running for a few seconds. If the motor HAS oil pressure after it starts up, and the alarm won't shut up, then the oil pressure switch is dead. Had that happen to me this year. Try disconnection the switch and see if the alarm goes off.

Jeff"
 
"That wont affect the engine s

"That wont affect the engine starting though, it that the only problem?"
 
"The warrning system, just so

"The warrning system, just so you know, is the horn, powered off the ignition switch, and grounded by a set of switches, in parallel. The switches are oil pressure, over temp, and (usually) transmission over temp. The oil pressure switch is the only one making contact on a cold engine (no oil pressure); this turns on the horn and functions as a partial self test for this circuit during the startup phase.

The horn will also sound, with the engine running, if either the engine or transmission overheat switches close. By wiring the switches in parallel, any one can activate the horn."
 
"As far as I can tell, there&#

"As far as I can tell, there's no power going through to the starter. Also, the other one doesn't make any noise when I start the starboard engine? Any recommendations where a neophyte would start to solve this?"
 
"Assuming the port engine does

"Assuming the port engine does start...does the starter NOT turn over the engine or does the engine spin but not run? For this I'd start by checking the neutral safety switch - assuming the battery is charged up. Hold the key to START and move the gear shift lever slowly, back and forth around the detent and see if anything happens.

If you have a test light or ohm meter, you can use that, too. The other items to check are the circuit breaker and the slave solenoid. Both should be at the back of the engine, not too far from the starter.

If it cranks but doesn't run, sniff the carb to see if gas is in the bowl. you can work the throttle lever to get the accelerator pump to squirt into the venturi. If gas is there, need spark. I'd start with the coil lead...pop it out of the distributor cap and put a spark plug into the end, ground the plug shell, and look for spark jumping the plug's gap while cranking.

Also, sounds like the starboard engine is ok except for the warning horn? Suggest getting the port running then take care of the warning system."
 
"This is gonna sound silly, bu

"This is gonna sound silly, but whack the starter with a hammer, it might be frozen. Are you sure power is not getting to the starter? Like makomark said, check the solenoid. You can jump it just like on a car."
 
"I was at the boat prior to se

"I was at the boat prior to seeing these last two posts. I noticed this time that it sounds like the starter tries to turn, the horn makes so much noise I missed it before, also I saw that the voltage gauge bounces toward the negative. If it matters, the engine started fine 3 times in the last two weeks, demo ride, & both haul out & return for the survey. As coincidence I did pull the spark arrestor & smelled gas. I also checked the batteries & they're at 13v. I'm an engine moron but trying to avoid calling a marine mechanic. Luckily, I guess, I'm not planning on moving the boat in the immediate future so I guess I've got time to learn. Any other thoughts?"
 
"The horn should be fed from t

"The horn should be fed from the purple ignition switched circuit, same one feeding the coil. you can disconnect it if needed.

You need to figure out if the starter is spinning and if it is, is it making the engine spin, too. That it has run recently is good but doesn't help directly.

Emac's thought has helped more than one of us. We had one in the shop one time that would never spin once hot. Turrned out it had spent the winter with the engine box ajar. The rain would drip onto the solenoid and run down into the starter via the high current connection. All the crude would 'float' the brushes off the commutator when hot...go figure.

You can also have someone check the pulleys and belts while cranking. another indicator engine is spinning is the oil pressure gauge rising then holding steady while cranking. BTW don't crank for more than ~20 seconds without giving thte starter motor some time to cool down (1-2 minutes).

There is likely to be a slave solenoid in addition to the solenoid at the starter.

Suggest, on next trip, if engine cranks but doesn't run, check for spark as you smelled fuel. I'm pretty sure you have a ballast resistor near the coil. they usually fail open = no engine run. If it doesn't crank, try to find out where the open is...verify the connections are good, on both sides..."
 
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