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engine runs good and bad intermited problem

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lonnieg5962

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92 johnson 150 starts runs for a while then dies wont start back up for about 5 mins then refires runs and dies again might due this several times or might run just fine rest of day never sure of what it will due put boat on trailer in water put in gear rev up cant make it die fells as if it could push truck up ramp runs great take back off down idle zone dies again put back on trailer same results runs great cant make it die not even for several minutes did notice vro makes a click when priming bulb motor starts when no click motor doesnt i have rebuilt all carbs replaced all fuel lines bulb and switch valve cleaned fuel tanks and pulse limiter unhooked vro oil side mixed fuel vro tested 5-6 lbs cold motor doesnt get hot when running always stays in normal range on guage any help would be greatly appreciated thanks lonnie
 
I'm interested in any feedback on this topic. My '93 150 J150EXETRN had the power head rebuilt (honed, pistons, bearings, new stator, carb-kits, optical sensor & timing wheel) and I've experienced the engine suddenly shutting off (always at idle or no wake speed) and afterwards it won't re-start (engine cranks, but acts like there's no fire to any cylinder). After a while, it cranks/fires/starts at the turn of the key. Has the original coil packs and power pack- has a 2000 binacle and key switch. I'm wondering if its in the key switch/emergency lanyard shutoff or if it's the power pack. The engine will usually start and run with or without the lanyard....and will shut off when the lanyard is removed. Other than this, the engine usually starts on key turn, screams & idles perfectly.
Thanks mvh
 
ACLMVH

Delete your posting on this persons page.

How difficult is it to have started a page of your own.

I am NOT going to answer you problem at all. Neither will a lot of other people.
 
Thanks for your gracious welcome to this forum cyclops2.

First, I'll not delete my posting- this is a forum. This is not "a person's page", it is a thread. Further, my engine symptoms are quite similar to lonnieg's and with essentially the same engine.

Second, its not difficult to start a new THREAD- but no one had responded to lonnieg's query, so I added my own very similar query in hopes that it would get some positive attention- instead, I see that you responded. This is a fact filled 'bump' to the thread.

Finally, I don't care if you don't respond to my problem or to lonnieg's problem, particularly if you have nothing positive to contribute- I think we should let other forum dwellers who read this THREAD decide whether they want to respond or not.

The whole point of a forum is for people to share problems and like problems. If you have ten different threads with the same problem, you may get ten different sets of answers, but only after having to search through ten different threads. If my problem is the same or similar, it would seem that any suggested solutions could benefit both lonnieg and me.

mvh
 
5962

The speed at which the engine stops number of seconds from great running to a dead stop ,is a critical fact that I need to guess with.
The 5 minute to restart is a typical overheated ignition symptom.
The running great on a inclined ramp & could be better float level. Possible but not really that likely......
Or also still a possible ignition problem.... Loose nut & wire under it. A wire that has rubbed on metal & has a bare spot there, right next to the metal.
Tilting moves the bare spot away.
 
how does the motor run with the engine tilted to where you are just getting cooling water?is this the original problem or did this particular problem start after carb rebuild?what are the floats made out of?Racer has an entry on here about warped floats..plastic i think..i know you say fresh gas but water in carbs will act this way too..this motor will run good tilted to almost the extreme with water in fuel..
 
aclmvh i totaly agree with you on this about opening seperate pages for similar problems.
unfortunatly yours is not similar !!!!!
but i agree to a point with your answer.

ive seen thousands of posts for the same question on all different forums, its not only a waste of time but can all be pretty much put in one catagory and would be of much better help.
If you had posted about a propeller i would agree go open your own topic, or gear case , open another topic etc.

also i noticed you started by saying you were interest to see the feedback on this topic.
you then went on to explain why you would be watching the feedback as your engine was having problems too.

Now for someone to come along and be so rude is not good, cyclops could of said pretty similar but not been so offensive in the manner it comes across.
he probably dont mean to sound so rude, sometimes i get taken out of context as to what i mean as well,
(especialy if my engine dont start that day ) .

the posting by cyclops should of read something like this.
can you please open a different page on your engine as the symptoms are not the same, im sure someone
will be along shortly to try and help you with your symptoms................

Cylcops can see that your symptons are infact totaly different, and probably knows exactly
whats wrong and can help and will help (when he calms down.:p)
so your both right, just need to be a bit more discreet and calm when asking (not telling)
someone to open another topic.

a private message can also go a long way.

hope this helps both of you get along a bit better for the future.

now back to the original topic


phill
 
My 9.9 hp is jetted to be overly rich when vertical. If I remove the fuel hose to run the carburator dry. The engine speeds up a lot as the fuel bowl starts to run dry.
So be it. Running rich is always correct. Lean is a weak ,sputtering, overheated engine.

It also had a problem of random shut downs that became worse over a year. Also required a cooling off period after each shut down. Finally had the ignition module die.
 
lonnieg5962
i think your problem could be on the ignition side.
a loose wire or bad powerpck would be what i would gun for with those symptons.
BUT you say it runs good on the ramp suggests bad float bowl problem.

now if you have cleaned the carbs, what way up are the float ? i ask this as i recently took a set of carbs and
went to clean them and noticed 2 out of 3 carbs had the flaots upsided down !!!!!!!!!!!!!
this would make the idle on the ramp part about right.

but the dying and sometimes runing fine all day again sounds like bad electrical problem again..

the clicking you hearfrom the vro, this is normal sound to do a clicking when running.
i think the noise of the click is from the oil side of the vro pump, a little pin goes back and forth and makes this sound.

how old is the fuel for this engine and is it a portable fuel tank of fixed tank ?

(the above post about a 9.9 is nothing at all like the 150hp and if its overly jetted to run ruch,then its wrong.
All engines speed up as they are running out of fuel even 4 stroke car engines.
maybe a topic on the 9.9hp of your own Could be good ? as many people have these engines and im sure
someone would be able to advise you on that model of engine as per the correct jets to fit it.
This particular topic deals with a completely different type of engine and problem,this is a vro 150hp engine,not
a very small twin cylinder engine.
The 150 is a far more complex engine, and i know form experience that those little twins can run on almost anything.)





phill
 
When carburators have fixed high speed jets. They must make them run safe enough from the coldest to the hottest day. Lowest humidity to highest humidity. At sealevel and a lake several thousand feet high.

At some worst case combination of temperature, humidity & elavation the engine would steadily slow down as it ran out of gas.

The real value of computers & electronic fuel injections is the fantastic range of conditions the fuel mixture can be maintained at.
 
Lonnieg,
After the engine stops, you say the engine restarts after 5 minutes. During that period of time when trying to restart, does the engine not fire (as if the kill circuit is closed) at all or does it try to fire but won’t start. Also, is the amount of time exactly 5 minutes every time or does it vary? If it’s the same every time, I think the power pack is suspect, particularly if it’s the original on that engine. Check the wires from the heat sensors on the head covers and make sure they aren’t touching any of the plug wires- those engines with OIS are very sensitive to unshielded signals to and from the PP.
mvh
 
thanks to all for their replay sorry about the delay in responding computer sever problems the problem is an origial one i have replaced all floats and set according to johnson service manual i have also replaced needle and seat and float in filter bowl twice i will check all conections and wiring path of temp sensor wires my cousin said this boat has done this in the past and dixie marine in cincinnati oh. replaced timing sensor and fixed problem i have an old needle volt meter from my step dad. would this do the same job as a dva tester? thanks again for all the help you guys are great much appreciation lonnie
 
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