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engine removal

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myquest

Contributing Member
I am about to remove my 225E engine and was wondering about removing the heat risers first so I'm not wrestling the exhaust hoses while I am lifting the engine? And how far forward does the engine have to go before I can tilt and lift? I have less than two inches before my water pump gets in the way of lifting.
 
Normally, about the time that the flywheel clears the Flywheel Cover (aka Bell Housing in the auto world)........, the Borg Warner splines at both the PDS (primary drive shaft), and the B/W Drive Coupler, have also cleared one another.
2" is close, but certainly worth trying!

I assume that this 2" is with the Crankshaft Pump removed????

Are you installing new PDS bearings/seals??????

Yes, I would definitely be removing the exhaust risers!

Also, as an FYI for you......, note the common issues with the OEM Riser-to-Y-pipe rubber couplers.
These should be replaced, and purchased by the foot, NOT by P/N!
The Sierra and OEMs are too short and cause issues.
 
Last edited:
Question; I assumed I was pulling the engine with the flywheel cover intact, by removing the bolts found outside by the pds opening. Darn Seloc again? The rubber couplers were new last year, replaced by PO just prior to purchase.
The engine removal is being done to replace pds bearings/seals.
This 2" is with the crankshaft pump still on engine, hoped I did not have to remove it? Volvo manual is ordered.
 
OK, you will need a bit more than 2" if you intend to pull the engine with the flywheel cover still attached to the engine. But you can tilt some, of which may help here.

Six to one, half dozen to the other.

You will need at least one new rubber ring for the Flywheel Cover side when re-installing. This is the ring that does the water sealing. It must be able to compress some.
Be sure to snug the clamping ring only until all is aligned....., then tighten the clamping ring at the very last.

No Automotive Never-Seize or Anti-Seize on any threads!
 
When I removed the clamping ring bolts there was anti seize on them. I figured that the flywheel cover had to be removed to service the pds bearings? Or can I remove the engine and get the shaft and bearings out with it still installed? I have removed the clamp ring bolts and keepers but nothinghas been disturbed yet.
 
myquest said:
Question; I assumed I was pulling the engine with the flywheel cover intact, by removing the bolts found outside by the pds opening. Darn Seloc again? The rubber couplers were new last year, replaced by PO just prior to purchase.
The engine removal is being done to replace pds bearings/seals.
This 2" is with the crankshaft pump still on engine, hoped I did not have to remove it? Volvo manual is ordered.
Click to expand...

I always remove any Volvo Penta with the flywheel cover on. Trying to line up the splines afterwards is a son of a gun. My boss several years ago said he would rather do it the other way and we had a race one day. My way won hands down as he was still fighting the splines as I was dumping the oil back in the drive after taking the powerhead off.
I have never seen anything that bad about the Seloc books, in fact I have almost the complete set but then again I don't use them for much anymore except for specs.
 
Thanks doc,
Do I need to remove the water pump on the crank before I pull the engine? It will make it easier to pull but one more thing to re-install. Hoped I could do it w/o draining the closed system?
 
Removing the crankshaft pump will not affect the CC System.

And just an FYI, you could still pull the engine and leave the F/C in the boat..... and yet still change the PDS bearings.

Be sure to check your flywheel ring gear while you have the engine out.
 
Thanks Rick,
So I can drive that shaft and bearings out while it is in ethe flywheel cover? Gently of course.
Anyone have a used rubber cushion in decent shape? I leaned on mine and it broke off.
 
Like said, at least ONE of the rubber cushions/rings should be NEW..... and that would be the Inboard ring!
It must be "compressible" in order to create the seal between the "Flywheel Cover" and the "transom shield"!
Without this, you may have a leak! :mad:

As for the PDS bearings...... you will be carefully driving the PDS and ONE BEARING ONLY as a UNIT out AFT.
The FWD bearing will remain in the F/C until you have the shaft and aft bearing in hand.
 
I think I have decided to leave the flywheel cover in the boat so I will not be disturbing that seal. The rubber cushion I mentioned is the bumper on the outside that is the stop cusion for the outdrive when it comes up. I leaned on mine while checking out the bolts on the ring around the pds and it fell off. I may be able to clean it all up and epoxy it back onto the plate, probably easier that way. I hope the bolts on the circ pump come out okay, that will give me much more forward room to pull the engine. Still coming up with a suitable place to pull the engine.
Thanks
 
Are there any bolts on the bottom side of the flywheel cover that need to be removed. I have found all of them from about 8 o'clock to about 4 o'clock but haven't laid on the floor and probed for more yet.
 
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