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Electronic Ignition Upgrade

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sunseeker

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I have a Sea Ray with a 5.7 li

I have a Sea Ray with a 5.7 liter OMC Cobra sterndrive. The engine starts right up every time when it is cold. After the engine has run for a while and has reach normal operating temperature the engine will not re-start. Once the engine has cooled down it starts right up again. I have been told that upgrading to an electronic ignition system will solve this problem. Has any one else experienced this problem and how was it resolved? Thanks
 
"Disconnect the battery follow

"Disconnect the battery follow the neg cable to the ground on the block, remove and clean shiny clean the bolt and the cable end.

With the battery still disconnected follow the pos. cable Clean every connection.

Remove the slav solenoid from the base and clean the bottom of the base and the plate base and reinstall.

Disconnect the main plug and see if it's green in there, shoot some electrical cleaner in there and see if you can clean out the plug female side and the male side.

Now the connections at the starter are clean cause you cleaned then , start with all the plug wires and dist end of the plug wires.

Don't forget about the center dist wire coming from the coil.

All the connections on the coil clean now.

Remove the dist cap look inside the rotor making good connection? The points clean just a bit of sandpaper and your good to go with the points.

Make sure the battery terminals are clean just don't look at them use a wire brush and make sure.

Then reconnect the cables.

Try it now run it and see when warm if it doesn't start again.

If it doesn't then with a spare plug inserted into a plug wire you took off a plug in the block hold it to the block and have someone turn it over.

You got spark?

See ether you got to have spark and fuel, no spark, you missed a connection or ground.

Go back and do it all over agian you missed a ground, or connection.

The throttle fully in neutral?

Got spark then maybe the anti-syphin valve is stuck or clogged, the fuel pickup tube is clogged.

Maybe the fuel / water seperator is clogged who knows.

The filter that is in the fitting that enters the carb clogged.

You have a bell type fuel pump, then there is a filter in there.

In closing you need to find out when the problemn presents itself, weather it's spark or fuel lacking and fix it then."
 
"Steven, short answer; [b]Very

"Steven, short answer; Very likely, and it certainly would NOT be a bad thing to do!
However, you really should be performing a P of E (process of elimination... one item ONLY at a time until you find the problem, IMO)
This will gain you the knowledge of just what the issue was, making you better prepaired for future similar issues, IMO!
Your call!

An ignition coil that is showing signs of failure can act up when warm. This may explain a portion of your warm no-start problem!

Keep in mind that you will have the typical issue with the ESA when converting from mechanic contacts to an electronic triggering device.
The fix is relatively simple and can be found on the Stuart Hastings site, I believe.

I'd strongly suggest a full swap to a real Reluctor Style ignition distributor, rather than the Pertronix conversion kit to your existing.
This gains you:
*Complete new unit, housing and all.
*New shaft and bushings.
*New driven gear.
*New mechanical advancing system.
*Comes with cap/rotor.
There are several good ones available.
The Mallory YLM 624 AV (5.7L SBC LH rotation) is a great choice, IMO..... and is not a photo eye unit!
It uses a magnetic reluctor style triggering device.

Don't forget that TAT (total advance timing) is far more important than setting BASE only!
(see your OEM specs for this)
Post back if you need help in doing this!

."
 
"Want to try something will pr

"Want to try something will probably surprise the 'ell out of you?

Run the boat in complete darkness, see any sparks, like a christmas tree? Every spark you see should not be there such as bad wire or connection."
 
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