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Cylinder bore question

Thanks, Pappy. Even someone without micrometers can do a simple check then before installing pistons....this is when considering a 3 to 4 inch bore. Take a standard piece of paper.....like a bill you can't pay......then cut out a strip about 1/2" wide. With piston in hand, and parts at around 70 degrees, take the strip of paper and hold it lengthwise alongside the piston @ 90 degrees from wrist pin. Then fit piston into bore. It should fit snuggly, and able to slide through entire bore in all positions.....without snagging on ports. If it snags on ports, then the port edges should be lightly dressed with wet or dry, or emery cloth in the 320 grit range. I have found that some machinists ignore extra care to properly dress ports, as well as miscalculate clearances.
 
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I wouldn't even try the paper test...or trust the results. Only paper test(playing card) I have ever used was on final drive on a dozer years ago...
 
Excellent Pappy. The paper test is really not too bad of a deal. It will indicate proper clearance as well as port edges condition. I hope to post a video when I find a machine shop to bore this worthless Yamaha 25. Got 3 of 'em here and they are all scored on bottom cylinder. Raquel bought this one at Pawn America, they said it ran great.....but then I pulled out my compression gauge and tested it at the counter. Price was 1,200 bucks, manager said....what will you give me? Raquel said $200....... manager "what"?......okay $250 plus tax. Ha.....that old compression gauge just can't tell a lie.
 
It will indicate proper clearance as well as port edges condition.
I hate to disagree with ya but the only thing is may be good for is checking ports...not all paper is the same thickness, plus it can be compressed and give a false reading. A "mike" and caliper and math will only "lie" to you if you don't know how to use.
 
I worked ( 5 years ) at a factory / precision machine shop where the owner said he had ----" 64 years experience in his field "-----He said that you can machine to a lot closer tolerances than you can measure.--------I have calibrated gauge blocks down to 5 millionths of an inch.-----So no , I do not believe in using a slip of paper to measure piston clearance.
 
Yes a weak impeller will cause overheat at idle..just cause it "pees" don't mean its cooling.This is probably the biggest culprit on 90° motor rectifier failures. Motor is "peeing" but block is not completely full. That's why the v-4s indicator tube should come off exhaust nipple, up and over top of head and down to discharge fitting. Now
just bore it next size( you can go in .010 increment's with WSM)..install new t-stats an relief poppets..new impeller..go thru carbs with new kits...If over .020 go up 1 jet size on mains..run good oil and fuel..will last another 20 +years easily if maintained

Pappy,

Although he is not certain yet my machinist said boring the worst cylinder to .040 will probably clean it up. In that case would you do all the cylinders at .040 and how many jet sizes would you go up? Is there a chart for jet size recommendations at various altitudes?
 
I agree with my guides, you guys are completely correct. I opened up a suggestion for those at home who may be assembling their own motor and with no micrometers. I have co-owned and managed a machine shop in the past, building everything from little gas motors up to huge diesels. The bulk of our business was dirt track engines, primarily, of course, small block Chevy's and aftermarket race blocks engineered on the same platform. My head machinist showed me this trick and it's not too bad of a deal. After parting ways with my brother in the shop, it eventually went back to the bank as he had borrowed all equity available in order to finance his real estate company.....2008. I felt obligated then to help at least two of my workers get jobs at the other 2 shops in Duluth. One of these shops bored an LT1 for me and I went to assemble it. He had been provided with at least one new piston in order to final hone to my specifications based on the motor's future application.......street rod developing 450 horsepower. More later....gotta go. Okay......so I get the block and expect to fit the pistons and they are too tight. I told the shop that I wanted .004 clearance. I grab my 0 to 1" Starrett and a piece of paper from my printer. Result...... .004". Cut a strip and set strip along piston skirt 90 degrees from pin, folding it over piston top and bottom of skirt. NO WAY will piston even begin to go in any of the bores. Temp was about 60 degrees of all the parts. THEN I take out my 4 to 5" Starrett......find fattest part of piston. Then inside mic....check bore size....WTF? I WAS SO MAD! LESS THAN .0025.....yes......paper can raise a red flag when aforementioned proceedures are followed. I got the block back.....assembled the motor and it's still spinning heads, as well as wheels in that 40 Ford......5 years later.
 
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Pappy,

Although he is not certain yet my machinist said boring the worst cylinder to .040 will probably clean it up. In that case would you do all the cylinders at .040 and how many jet sizes would you go up? Is there a chart for jet size recommendations at various altitudes?

What are you using motor for?? A lot of WOT running or pulling persons? Need to go up at least 1 size on jet and WSM makes a great .040 piston
 
Troy's 40 with LT1.10600_compress30.jpg
I agree on jetting up 1 or 2 sizes, depending on intended operating parameters.
 
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One of my ole motors was a BBC 454 at 100 over, epoxied block, nitride crank and internals, KB pistons,T2X tunnel ram intake, (2) 1050CFM Holleys, rachet,"c" impeller.. ran at 7K every race on 16ft Texas tunnel..was a easy 115MPH ride in the 1/4. Would post pics but all my good pic burnt up in garage fire..(lightning)
 
Your insane, Pappy. I'm very sure of your experience. The longer I participate in this forum, the more I appreciate everyone's participation and desire to share knowledge. There is hundreds of years of experience here available with the click of your finger.10604_compress84.jpg
Troy's 40 Ford, one sweet ride.
 
What are you using motor for?? A lot of WOT running or pulling persons? Need to go up at least 1 size on jet and WSM makes a great .040 piston

Pappy,

Will not going to be any tough duty on the boat. Some WOT from time to time but not extensive. It's a 17' Statos Fish/Ski that will be used just for fishing with 2-3 people.

Are there jet charts available anywhere?

Also, another forum member suggested replacing the water deflectors. The ones in my block are not flattened, look good and are in place properly. Is there anything to be gained by replacing them? My block is clean and has little corrosion.
 
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