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CURSED!!! evinrude 55hp electic shift 197? -

That's right, Racer, but maybe Mr. Burns has a bad DVA meter. Isn't that a possibility? Looks like he is doing his tests properly....don't think he's a rookie. Just came in from shoveling a ton of snow off semi trailers and shed roofs, thought I'd crack open a Hamm's and check the forum, but not much new here.
 
Hi all - its an automotive style, it came in like that- they work fine, ive used them before on outboards and boats.. basically a 70s ford remote starter solenoid as used by millions of cars over time-
 
DVA reads correct disconnected though, its very new and seems to be producing exact results every time... i really think the cheap chinese coils the prev owner put on these kicked back possibly - not sure, cos the motor ran fine for many hours while I was doing the timing and dialing in the carbs and working the idle mixtures screws (wouldnt idle gr8 but ran ok, I hvae new reeds on the way for 50 bucks IF i can get the rest to work)
 
They work fine ----I know that.-----But is there a small terminal ( sends 12 volts to a coil ) on that solenoid that is now sending 12 volts to ground ??----Up to you to do the testing !!-----The factory solenoid is not grounded internally it is grounded via the safety switch.--It does not send 12 volts anywhere.-----Report with what you find !
 
Aren't you supposed to do the stator test while it's connected as well as disconnected up to the pack? Why?.....To make certain it doesn't drop while it's loading the capacitor in the pack, eh? The reading shouldn't change if your having a "good day"!
So reviewing back to the very first post it looks like the reading drops to nothing....I'm so stupid, I missed it, sorry! Dah? Coulda saved you some trouble.
 
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Haha all good tim! lemme explain - the test is done disconnected first to isolate the stator and see if it can "pump" the volts required.. Then you connect the pack bare minimum (no kill wire/coils/etc) - if the voltage drops significantly the pack is faulty cos its not supposed to drain the juice, so a good pack connected will show near or similar volts as compared to the stator disconnected -

ie a bad pack will show a significant to complete loss of power when connected (as in my case).

More theory, the stator provides 2 paths of juice, high voltage for the pack (150-400 volts). The (usually yellow) wires are much lower, maybe 18 or 35 volts, ALL they do is charge the battery - NOTHING else. JUST charging the battery, hence the much lower voltage - the rectifier/regulator takes the 18 or 30 volts and converts it to DC and down to say 13.5 or 14.3 (safe charging voltage).

Thats why you test the pack wire from the stator (brown in my case) disconnected first, then connected- so in my video you can see I get 186 volts disconnected - which is plenty.. (spec is 150 to 400). Then when I connect it to the pack I get 0.5v or something, a good pack would still read high, maybe a few volts less but maybe 5-10 volts.

The end result is a bad pack will literally drain all the juice out of the stator (internal problem) - this is the way to test a pack.. now if the voltage was low connected AND disconnected, obviously the stator is bad-



timguy said:
Aren't you supposed to do the stator test while it's connected as well as disconnected up to the pack? Why?.....To make certain it doesn't drop while it's loading the capacitor in the pack, eh? The reading shouldn't change if your having a "good day"!
So reviewing back to the very first post it looks like the reading drops to nothing....I'm so stupid, I missed it, sorry! Dah? Coulda saved you some trouble.
Click to expand...
 
also - its not uncommon to see the unused "i" terminal to be grounded on io's - thats probably whats going on with the starter solenoid.. it came like that and ran on 1 cyl, seems like a factory spade connector on there -
 
hi raceer - ill unground the pin and see, but either way the solenoid works just like any other, 12v starter solenoid -

the entire ignition system arrived yesterday so ill be putting it on today hold thumbs!
 
I am not 100% sure what solenoid is on your motor.----But the factory solenoid grounds via the safety switch.----Yes the SAFETY switch.-----Some solenoids ground internally via the mounting plate.----That would only need one small terminal to activate the magnetic switch.-----That would defeat the safety switch.------Good luck with your motor.
 
Hi - so i got everything hooked up and shes working great now- no clue what was wrong before - anyway.. i found your thread here regarding the shift testing

(http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...h-p-electric-shift-Evaluating-shift-solenoids )


"Hook 12 volt negative to casing.---12 volts positive to green.---Turn driveshaft.----It should go to neutral after one turn.----12 volts positive to green and blue puts it in reverse after about 2 turns.-----Use TYPE C gear oil ( PREMIUM BLEND ) for actual operation on the water."

Is this possible on the motor via the yellow plug? id hate to have to open controller again for fear of breaking something.. trying to get the shifting sorted if possible -

shift solenoid currently wired like this:

evinrude-elec-shift-diode-wiring.jpg

racerone said:
I am not 100% sure what solenoid is on your motor.----But the factory solenoid grounds via the safety switch.----Yes the SAFETY switch.-----Some solenoids ground internally via the mounting plate.----That would only need one small terminal to activate the magnetic switch.-----That would defeat the safety switch.------Good luck with your motor.
Click to expand...
 
agreed - its a customers and i told him to run from it so trying to see if i can get it shifting b4 he collects on Fri- he knows it has a ton of issues & he needs to sell asap or part it..
 
Best to take it to a shop with a gray-haired mechanic who understands how simple this machine is !!-----Yes it is a simple machine.----Easy to diagnose the ignition.----Easy to diagnose the electric shift.
 
true- well thats what im here for i guess. last issue is shifting.. found the blue and green wire and would like to do the 12v test, shd it be running or can i turn with wrench/socket?

ill check the solenoid ohms - im not charging the guy just trying to help him out.
 
Use a socket and a ratchet wrench.----With 12 volts to the green wire it should go into neutral after 1 turn of the flywheel.-----With 12 volts to green and blue it should be in reverse after 2 turns of the flywheel.-----That be how I test um.
 
well i finally got it working- tested the wires, the switch up front was only half spring loaded, so after going into fwd it wouldnt engage the notch in the control and stayed stuck in rev..

put a spring in there and its working 100% now-

im done! thanks for the help fellas-
 
Good job, this has been a pretty neat thread. What do you think was the culprit with the spark issue?
 
Never figured that out- the old stuff just worked and did not even bother testing / comparing. I do have an original manual and there are actually ohms tests for the OEM units i might try on the cdi for comparison..

Either the chinese coils or who knows- just unbelievable.

timguy said:
Good job, this has been a pretty neat thread. What do you think was the culprit with the spark issue?
Click to expand...
 
It's obvious your patient and know what your doing. I really hate it, when you fix something and really don't know what you did! Hah! I've been there, never really graduated from the " School of Hard Knocks"!
 
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