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Crusader heat exchanger end caps?

G

gemiii

New member
Thanks in advance. 454xl I replaced 1 of the endcaps and its cupped compared to the original flat cap. Is the cap supposed to seal against the inner veins with the gasket? Over the course of 3 years the engine is running hot and Im having a hard time solving it. New thermostat, raw water pump u cooler, risers and manifolds, circ pump and both motors rebuilt 2 years ago. I have the same amount of water flow out the back of the boat on both engines. The water temps going out are 165. The gulf temp is 92. The only difference is the exhaust air on my hot engine is way hotter than the exhaust on my normal temp engine, to the point I cant hold the exhaust flap open with my hand. That engine seems to steam more than the other engine. I cant figure out the raw water flow thru the heat exchanger? It looks like with the cupped cap the inlet water would bypass the heat exchanger and go right to the elbow and go out? The heat exchanger has 4 chambers Thanks for any help :)
 
Crusader used a few different sources for the heat exchangers in that time frame...as a rule, if you had flat caps, they should be replaced with the same. all of the heat exchangers use a multi-pass design and the normal approach is to use 'ribs' to route the raw water so that it flows thru all of the chambers...the gaskets need to seal around the circumference of the caps as well as between the caps and the 'ribs'.

If the issue started with the introduction of the cupped cap, I'd say the cupped cap is the issue...
 
makomark said:
Crusader used a few different sources for the heat exchangers in that time frame...as a rule, if you had flat caps, they should be replaced with the same. all of the heat exchangers use a multi-pass design and the normal approach is to use 'ribs' to route the raw water so that it flows thru all of the chambers...the gaskets need to seal around the circumference of the caps as well as between the caps and the 'ribs'.

If the issue started with the introduction of the cupped cap, I'd say the cupped cap is the issue...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. When I hold a straight edge against the end face of the heat exchanger the chamber dividers, ribs are about 1/8" recessed from the end cap seating face. 3 years ago I pulled 1 endcap to check the heat exchanger and the cap was bowed inwards so I wacked it with a hammer and in broke :( I ordered the exact part # 22164 and it came in cupped. Every picture I see of the part is cupped. I did 1 cap on each engine but the opposite ends. When I pulled off the other cap on the hot running engine it was also bowed inwards and I could see the internal veins/ dividers impression's on the gasket. The internal dividers are sealed to the tube sheet face so the only way to flow from chamber to chamber is between the end cap and the dividers/ ribs, I think? I've googled to the end of the internet and can't find much on the end caps.
 
if the dividers are compressing the gaskets, then you should be good.

I be inclined to recheck the raw water flow - eyeballing it is not accurate. Best approach is to measure the flow with a bucket. Make sure the suction side (intake) plumbing is tight...hose clamps, strainer lids, etc. and you said new raw water pump - when the rebuild occurred? If so, has it seen a new impeller since?

If this has persisted for 3 years, the cause has likely been untouched...could be a hose is collapsing or something in the scoop...
 
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