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Crusader 8.1 V-drive Coupling

E

erich

Regular Contributor
I am in the process of replacing the coupling on one of my Crusader 8.1L V-drive engines. I was able to remove the old coupling using a wheel puller I loaned from Autozone. What is the best procedure for installing the new coupling on the shaft? Should I coat both surfaces with anti-seize? Or a coating of engine oil or maybe some grease? I know right now the new coupling doesn't just slide right on and will probably need whatever the opposite of a puller is...such as a BFH.

Erich
 
I had to replace a coupling on my boat. I called the prop shop and they had the one I needed in stock. I went over to pick it up and they were surprised I didn't bring my shaft so they could fit the coupling to it. I had no idea... I bought the coupling and left, and then tried to install it on the shaft, but there was no way that was going to happen. In the end, I took the shaft and the new coupling back to the prop shop and they machined it to a very tight tolerance - maybe even .001" under, and they dimpled the shaft to accept the set screws (bolts). I did end up using the BFH method with a block of wood between the gear coupling and the new shaft coupling, and I held another block at the aft end of the shaft as I drove the shaft into the coupling. I didn't coat the shaft or coupling's ID with anything.

Since then I've heard of people heating the coupling in a pot of cooking oil to give a little more clearance and then quickly positioning it with oven mitts before too much heat is lost. The shaft is then driven in.

And I almost forgot to mention that using a solid coupling, instead of split coupling, will cause people to look at you like you're caveman. I didn't know that until I replaced the coupling.

Hope that helps. Good luck.
Dan
 
Last edited:
Dan,

With my V-drive setup I don't see any way that the coupling can be attached to the shaft and then installed into the boat. It has to be installed with the shaft in place. I did read about heating the coupling first with a torch so that it expands a little. I also read a post where anti-seize was used. I just wanted to see what the experts here had to say. Thanks for your reply.

Erich
 
DJR hit the nail on the head...use a "split" coupler on the shaft whenever you replace the factory installed one.
 
Since I had already ordered and received a regular coupling I went at it today and got it done. I used a 4 bolt zinc backed up with a hose clamp on the shaft just before the strut to keep it from sliding down. I then heated the coupling up in a toaster oven, lined it up and hammered it on with a small sledge hammer. Bolted it up to the tranny and will double check the alignment later after it has been in the water for a while.
 
Sounds like it worked out for you...hopefully there was a block of wood between the hammer and the coupler...being as the zice held the shaft, I suspect the coupler went on fairly easy...
 
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