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Crusader 454 model 350, 1985 era thermostat issues and gasket

ron54

New member
New to me 1985 Carver 3697 Mariner with ch 350 Crusaders, raw water cooled. Always a fresh water lake boat best I can tell from records. Noticed port engine running very cold, barely 110 degrees in 82 degree water, and starboard slow to warm running up to about 125 after quite awhile. Service records from PO show that right after he purchased in 2017 he reported temp gauge (s) not working. Tech noted the gauges were working but “think thermostats have been removed”. Nothing apparently done to correct.

Went to port motor first and after a lot of work to break the housing (s) loose I found what appears to be the original thermostat. Brought it home and it was stuck slightly open. (Pressure relief valve, seat and spring In housing seemed fine). Put thermostat in hot water on stove and checked temp with a thermopen. It started opening at about 100 and was fully open at 110. Started closing about 100 but never fully closed, so causing motor to run cold. Problem solved, bought two new sierra kit # 18-3671 with 140 degree thermostats and gaskets. Discovered the water outlet gasket in the kit was not correct for the lower housing which sits on manifold. Got one at Autozone ( found that lot’s of parts cross reference for these motors to 1974 Corvette with 454) put it together and all good. Engine now warms to about 145 degrees quickly and holds right around 145 to 150 when running down Table Rock Lake. Did starboard engine yesterday and it now warms up much quicker and runs about same temp as port.

Questions:
After the fact (this morning) I discovered the marine version of the water outlet gasket from manifold to lower housing has a copper grounding rivet to provide continuity from upper housing to lower to manifold for temp sender. My gauge is working so I assume I am getting ground through the bolts. My question is I think the ground is all or nothing, either I get a ground or not, won’t give an erratic result. If that is correct I will just leave as is unless I lose the ground. Or should I just replace with the proper gasket?

Obviously the engine has been running cold for a long time, PO did not run much, only put 80 hours on it in six seasons. No clue how long it had been running cold before 2017. He had a survey done before purchase. Of course better for thermostats to default open than closed but wondering about any long term effects on motors from running cold. Oil looks good, don’t see any milky deposits from condensation when viewing through oil fill caps on valve covers. Anything I should watch for?

Also, did not replace the pressure relief assembly it seemed fine, worked freely, spring good. If I am correct this allows water to cool the risers when thermostat is closed in raw water systems?

Not quite related to topic, but port engine (LH rotation) has some “clatter” at idle that goes away about 1000 rpm. It’s not alternator, water pump, etc because before I replaced the belts I ran engine for about 45 seconds with belts off and noise still there. A couple of friends think it is the ”extra gear” for timing chain/camshaft for reverse rotation on this era Crusader. Any thoughts?

Sorry for the long winded post but trying to get all details out the first time.

Thanks, Ron
 
You understand the rivet...and I would leave it alone as long as things are working.

Running cold may allow the accumulation of liquid/suspended stuff in the oil to remain...I'd say an oil analysis would give you insight into the condition of the engine...of course without previous samples, you really don't have the desired trend lines...

I thing you understand the poppet valves...I'd just extend the water flow to include the exhaust manifolds and the elbows...

the clatter is more likely the damper plate rattle...indicating the spring(s) are loose and the plate requires replacement...probably something that should be added to the fall haul out list...

On the alternative parts source - there are many auto engines that will yield functional parts - some are marine only due to safety concerns - alternators & distributors are two examples. Also be aware many 'parts' that the marine versions may have different finishes that deter corrosion. I believe in paying for quality parts but hate to pay a premium for something branded 'marine' when its not...
 
Thanks, never thought of the damper plate, it seems the noise is coming from the front of the engine but I know from working on vehicles in the past engine noise location can be deceiving. I’ll take my mechanics stethoscope next and listen at the damper.
Read some threads on forum about using a 160 degree thermostat in clean lake water, any thoughts?
 
The 'disappears when the RPM goes up' is a pretty good tell...if you have a good light (or a borescope), you can usually get an inspection thru the timing cover in the flywheel housing....

If you are confident there isn't any significant mineral concentration in the lake, I don't see anything but benefit going to a 160 degF tstat...
 
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