Converting AQ280 to Hydraulic Steering

[Capt.C.Delany]

Hey guys/gals, long long time lurker, first time poster. I have already gotten so much out of this forum, the wealth of knowledge here is outstanding!

I am in the process of buying the stuff to switch over the old rack and pinion to hydraulic steering for my AQ280 outdrive in my Skipjack. The outdrive is non-power assisted and I have confirmed with Seastar that I need either the HC5328 or the balanced HC5330. Seems easy enough but there is a catch... Space!


The space required will put the end of the cylinder under the fiberglass compartment that extends down under the transom rail. (no idea what it is called? not really a bulwark, but it is the area where most guys mount the trim tab pump) In that position it will be sticking out of the engine compartment.


I am sure that enough people here have done this conversion without those results. I have tried to find pictures of a proper conversion and cannot find anything.


Does the cylinder need to be reversed from the current direction the steering cable goes in? Also, the tube with the threads on the bracket is like 5" with the overall bracket about 11" should this be shorter? Does the threaded piece come apart and the end of the cylinder replaces it?


Also, anyone running an AP44 with either a HC5328 or HC5330? Does it matter if I go with a balanced cylinder or not?


Any help is appreciated it!

 

[RicardoMarine]

First of all..... I have a curiosity question:
........ what is the filter at the rear of the engine for, and what is the outlet hose (left one in photo) connecting to?

Hey guys/gals, long long time lurker, first time poster. I have already gotten so much out of this forum, the wealth of knowledge here is outstanding!

I am in the process of buying the stuff to switch over the old rack and pinion to hydraulic steering for my AQ280 outdrive in my Skipjack. The outdrive is non-power assisted and I have confirmed with Seastar that I need either the HC5328 or the balanced HC5330. Seems easy enough but there is a catch... Space!
With a good R&P helm unit, good cable and good collar steering fork bushings, properly adjusted trim fin/torque tab, etc, you should not need hydraulic steering!


The space required will put the end of the cylinder under the fiberglass compartment that extends down under the transom rail. (no idea what it is called? not really a bulwark, but it is the area where most guys mount the trim tab pump) In that position it will be sticking out of the engine compartment.


I am sure that enough people here have done this conversion without those results. I have tried to find pictures of a proper conversion and cannot find anything.


Does the cylinder need to be reversed from the current direction the steering cable goes in?
If need be, the direction can be corrected or changed by reversing the hoses.

Also, the tube with the threads on the bracket is like 5" with the overall bracket about 11" should this be shorter? Does the threaded piece come apart and the end of the cylinder replaces it?
That will depend on which hydraulic system you go with.



Also, anyone running an AP44 with either a HC5328 or HC5330? Does it matter if I go with a balanced cylinder or not?
A non-balanced cylinder will give you different lock-to-lock helm wheel revolutions.
In other words (example only), it may take 3 helm wheel turns for a full Stdb turn, and only 2.5 helm wheel turns for a full Port turn.

A balanced cylinder will give you equal lock-to-lock helm wheel revolutions.
I would prefer a balanced cylinder!


Any help is appreciated it!

View attachment 20243


This shows the filter I am curious about.
View attachment 20244

 

[sandkicker]

re; "am in the process of buying the stuff to switch over the old rack and pinion to hydraulic steering for my AQ280 outdrive in my Skipjack. The outdrive is non-power assisted and I have confirmed with Seastar that I need either the HC5328 or the balanced HC5330. Seems easy enough but there is a catch... Space!
With a good R&P helm unit, good cable and good collar steering fork bushings, properly adjusted trim fin/torque tab, etc, you should not need hydraulic steering!

DITTO!!!

 

[Capt.C.Delany]

First of all..... I have a curiosity question:
........ what is the filter at the rear of the engine for, and what is the outlet hose (left one in photo) connecting to?

Thanks for the response Ricardo.

That is where the previous owner installed the remote oil filter. The left hose is connected to the oil cooler. The motor is an AQ260. For what it's worth, the oil stays pretty dang clean, and the motor runs cool around 150.

Currently my steering is fine, not hard at all, I am just wanting to upgrade to put in an autopilot since I have everything opened up for re-wiring.

I guess the root of my question is this: the current steering cable comes in from the starboard side. Would there be any modifications necessary if I were to reverse it and put it so the new steering cylinder comes in from the port side? I have more room on that side.

 

[RicardoMarine]

If the sole purpose is to install a hydraulic auto pilot, then by all means install the hydraulic steering.

The hydraulic lines can be reversed in order to correct the steering direction.

 

[Capt.C.Delany]

If the sole purpose is to install a hydraulic auto pilot, then by all means install the hydraulic steering.

The hydraulic lines can be reversed in order to correct the steering direction.

I understand about the lines, I guess a better way to put it would be: will the bracket accept the cylinder in the opposite direction than the direction the cable currently enters it?

 

[RicardoMarine]

I understand about the lines, I guess a better way to put it would be: will the bracket accept the cylinder in the opposite direction than the direction the cable currently enters it?

That depends on whether or not the hydraulic steering system requires using the steering cable "tube" .